yes, i agree with that. That was one good description of how to set the timing. Its up and running now. Thank you so much for your help. I am able to cut my grass with the tractor now versus the push mower. This makes it so much easier.

Now i do have one more question. Why would I be getting gasoline in the oil? I drained the oil and it looked like water coming out. I refilled it with new oil and I went back to look at it and it again had gas in it. How hard is this to fix? Or is it just from cranking with out a spark?

Thanks again.

Brandon

 

Fuel is leaking past your float needle valve in the carburetor. The level of fuel in the carb bowl is regulated by a mechanism that works exactly like your toilet tank. When the fuel reaches a certain level, a float pushes up on a small needle valve that stops any more fuel from flowing into the bowl.
When the toilet is "running", the water is going down the drain as fast as it is being let into the tank by the leaky bowl seat. Well, when your engine is running the fuel level will drop slightly in the bowl and fuel will then enter the bowl at the same rate as it is being consumed by the engine.
Your problem is that you have a "leaky flapper" in the bottom of your toilet tank. Only it is a leaking valve in the top of your carb bowl area that is allowing fuel to continue running into the bowl, up the jet or pickup tube, through the barrel of the carburetor and right into the cylinder, past the rings and into your oil. Without looking at a picture of your engine, I do know that several models of lawn tractor engines have the carburetor somewhat elevated and the intake manifold angles downward to the intake port, allowing the fuel to run into the engine. Again, B&S is superior in their design in the respect that a leaking bowl will generally leak out the other end of the carb providing a visual indication of a problem.
The long-term solution? Buy a carb rebuild kit for this engine. They are not hard to do and most have some directions right in the box.
Short-term? If you don't already have a fuel line shut off valve, get one and shut off the fuel between uses.
Let me know if I can help any further!
I know I badmouth Tec some, but I will say that these 8, 10, and 12 horse vertical shaft engines are pretty tough and were used in innumerable applications. When they are tuned properly they generally fire right up and make all the power you'll need for the job at hand.

 

So its a leaky float needle. I rebuilt the carb last year because before then it was sitting for about 7 or 8 years. I replaced all the seals, cleaned out everything I saw, and let it set in carb and choke cleaner over night. I also got a new float because the old one had gas in it, making it heavier than it should be. So I guess I need to go get a float needle. The engine runs great but it does get pretty warm. And by the way, the carb is elevated above the intake hole.

I really appreciate all this help.

Brandon

 

Would it make anything change if I said it seemed like the gas was mixing with the oil while it was running? or would it still be that float needle? Just a thought after running it today with new oil. I checked it after running and it had gas in the oil again.