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I just replaced my intake mantifold in a 5.8l and it's leaking oil from behind mantifold between the heads. I put plenty of sealer on where the cork gaskets go to include the space between the head and block and allowed the sealer to become tacky before instaling. (I chose not to install the cork gaskets because they leak after time). I waited until the next day before starting the Bronco. Well my engine leaks oil now. Is there oil preasure above the camshaft? I would not think so. Any help is apreacated. Can it be sealed by smearing sealer over the leaking area without replacing the gaskets again, once cleaned? Thanks
Must have missed a spot, only thing I can think of.
You will need another intake set and another attempt.
Just take your favorite gasket maker (silicone or such) I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a can of the "RIGHT STUFF" Gasket maker! This stuff is awesome, comes in a pressurized can making it simple to use and cleanup and the gaskets are incredibly strong. It requires no cure time, you can return it to service the second its all back together.. it is that good. I have never encountered a leak since I started using this stuff years ago. Once you use it, you will never want anything else.
Run a big fat bead ( at least 1/4 inch bead) on intake ends of the block side mating surface, where you would normally set the cork ends.. Also a nice big dab at the ends where it meets the intake gaskets, this is normally where the leaks happen because this will be the area with the biggest void to fill. So make sure there is plenty in the corners.
Do not apply any on the intake itself. Set the intake straight down and tighten according to sequence. You will never had another leak again.
leaks suck, and we have all had nightmares!! Mine was a dipstick tube seal that caused the entire oil contents of my motor to spray down the length of the truck ... WHAT A MESS!
Hope the info helps.
Last edited by brianlr77; Apr 23, 2007 at 10:25 PM.
when ever you do that make sure you clean all the surfaces real real good with lauqur (sp) thinner......never give it any dry time, because it will form a skin and wont stick.
A nice trick I learned somewhere along the line for these stupid front/rear intake gaskets... glue them on!! Use contact cement on the block and 1 side of cork gasket to fix it in place. Follow the proceedure applying glue to both surfaces and let it tack up before pressing them together. Then use RTV to seal between the intake and gasket, this way you know the gasket will not move while the intake is torqued down.
Must have missed a spot, only thing I can think of.
You will need another intake set and another attempt.
Just take your favorite gasket maker (silicone or such) I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a can of the "RIGHT STUFF" Gasket maker! This stuff is awesome, comes in a pressurized can making it simple to use and cleanup and the gaskets are incredibly strong. It requires no cure time, you can return it to service the second its all back together.. it is that good. I have never encountered a leak since I started using this stuff years ago. Once you use it, you will never want anything else.
Run a big fat bead ( at least 1/4 inch bead) on intake ends of the block side mating surface, where you would normally set the cork ends.. Also a nice big dab at the ends where it meets the intake gaskets, this is normally where the leaks happen because this will be the area with the biggest void to fill. So make sure there is plenty in the corners.
Do not apply any on the intake itself. Set the intake straight down and tighten according to sequence. You will never had another leak again.
leaks suck, and we have all had nightmares!! Mine was a dipstick tube seal that caused the entire oil contents of my motor to spray down the length of the truck ... WHAT A MESS!
Hope the info helps.
I cerous how the dipstick seal leak cause your oil to spray over your engine? I have never herd of that. I'm sure that was a mess. I be it smoked a tad bit too! About the gaskets, I was wondering should I get steel gaskets? I hear that they seal up good. Or should I go with the oem that Felpro makes? I have never used steel. What's your opinion? Thanks
On my 85 Bronco with a 351 2v, the dipstick itself has a rubber seal on the end. It must have broke and fell out when I went to check the oil. I put the dipstick back in and drove for about 30 miles, then came to turn and had to stop... SMOKE and nasty burning smell.. I can still remember it like it just happened.
Popped the hood and saw the dipstick was out like 5 -6 inches and oil EVERYWHERE.. just everywhere.. all over the drivers side engine compartment, transmission transfer case even got on the tailgate (wind from driving).
You wouldn't think oil would make it's way out that bad, but let me assure you open a hole for the crankcase oil to go somewhere and run about 3k rpms the oil is spun around extremely violently and will shoot out like a shot gun given the chance. If you have a gas lawnmower, take the oil filler cap off and start it..lol it will shoot several feet (my brother did this on accident when I was growing up) not pretty, lol.
Anyways, as far as gaskets.. just use the felpros or equiv, you don't need anything crazy for these motors. The felpros have very good sealing qualities and won't expand an contract over time nearly as bad as the soft metal variety. Those ones can cause leaks and you may possibly have to torque the intake again and again (think header gaskets) The end seals are the real problems on our intakes.
Hope all goes well
Last edited by brianlr77; Apr 28, 2007 at 05:30 PM.
Don't let it tack up before putting the intake on. Put it on after you put the RTV on it.
Last time I did mine, I put the cork gaskets in but coated them with silicone first...and got the corners real good. There was too much of a gap for me to think that the silicone would hold it over time, but who knows.
Don't let it tack up before putting the intake on. Put it on after you put the RTV on it.
Last time I did mine, I put the cork gaskets in but coated them with silicone first...and got the corners real good. There was too much of a gap for me to think that the silicone would hold it over time, but who knows.
Good luck.
Yes, very good tip... don't allow it to become tacky.. Just RTV it and install.. this will allow the sealant to adhere to the intake better. There is no point in allowing it to "Tack"
As far as gaps, never had an issue, but I do agree that the gaps look big.. but the power of sealant cures that
Thanks for the advice, I'll stay away from metal gaskets. Brianlr77, What a mess, Guess you must of cleaned your engine bay for days. I can remember adjusting my valves in my z28 and the oil shot all over the car and the wall about 3' way. I never expected that to happen.