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Old May 17, 2007 | 11:45 AM
  #16  
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Thought I'd jump in here.


Well my tuck would do the same thing, die and then start after she sat for a while. I'd check to see if I had spark and I wouldn't. Let her sit and then she'd start.

So finally I replaced the pickup in the dizzy and she worked great, no problems for about three years ago then the problem came back. I put in a new pickup and still she wouldn't start. I threw in an aftermarket module from Mallory and she fired straight up. Then a month later same problem so the coil was replaced and it worked great for about 5 months now the same problem.

A couple of days ago she died, no spark. After a few minutes spark then no spark. Had her towed home and she started right up.

I'm replacing the distributor because I think that's the problem. My Bronco is a 1980 with a 351M rebuit motor.
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 12:06 PM
  #17  
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i wonder if the ignition switch could do this?sounds like you have replaced everything else.is there a good body to engine ground?
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 12:38 PM
  #18  
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ignition switch was also replaced.
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 01:06 PM
  #19  
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Don't forget the resistor (hot) wire from the coil to the ignition switch. If it burns out, vehicle no start.

D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire (Motorcraft DY-263) 49" long; color coded red with two green stripes
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #20  
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But if it burns out it shouldn't work anymore?
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Don't forget the resistor (hot) wire from the coil to the ignition switch. If it burns out, vehicle no start.

D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire (Motorcraft DY-263) 49" long; color coded red with two green stripes
it started back up after it sat awhile.
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 05:56 PM
  #22  
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I have a wire running from the bat directly to my after market ignition module. I believe the red switched wire going to the module is a solid red but I'll have a look. Thanks
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 01:15 PM
  #23  
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I had 3 blue grommet modules go on my '85 351 over about a 4 year period. First was a Ford, second two were Standard Ignition parts. All died when hot then came back when they cooled down. When I replaced it the third time I used a MSD-6a and added a switch so the pickup fed either the new stock module or the MSD-6a. With the MSD supplied coil connector I could switch to the backup (stock) ignition in about 2 minutes under the hood. It was nice to have the peace of mind of the backup there, but ones I switched to the MSD I never needed it and the spark was sooo much better. As to your popping and flat feeling in the motor, that could be a fuel pump going too. Mine gave those problems when warming up then fine all day, then the next day same issues. Finallly pump gave out.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 03:28 PM
  #24  
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What if you are running MSD ignition? Mine is having the same problem but i think its because my alternator is only a 55 amp and the guy that built the engine ran an electric fuel pump, electric fan, and the msd ignition without beefing up to a bigger alternator. plus it is running hot so i am going to replace the fan with a bigger one.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 05:10 PM
  #25  
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When mine died I had no spark. I'm going to relocate the Mallory Hyfire 6A to the right side to see if that helps.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 05:30 PM
  #26  
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i am going to run the new alternator tonight and see if that helps.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 08:04 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Don't forget the resistor (hot) wire from the coil to the ignition switch. If it burns out, vehicle no start.

D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire (Motorcraft DY-263) 49" long; color coded red with two green stripes
I checked and there two that are joined by a black rubber connector. That goes into one wire which I'm using as the 12V switched source. Why would a wire be a resistor wire? I never heard of it before.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 08:15 PM
  #28  
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The coil is designed to provide a full voltage spark with the 8-9V generally available while the engine is cranking.

The resistor wire cuts the voltage to the coil when the engine is running to prevent the coil from burning up. A resistor wire is made with impure copper and a high temp insulating cover to stand the heat generated in the wire.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 09:51 PM
  #29  
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I've got a lot of play in the base that holds the pickup in the dizzy. So much play that the armature touches the pickup. I bought a new dizzy to through in next weekend.
 
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Old May 20, 2007 | 03:46 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Torque1st
The coil is designed to provide a full voltage spark with the 8-9V generally available while the engine is cranking.

The resistor wire cuts the voltage to the coil when the engine is running to prevent the coil from burning up. A resistor wire is made with impure copper and a high temp insulating cover to stand the heat generated in the wire.
I'm using a line directly from the battery to my Mallory Hyfire 6A ignition module but the wire you speak of is being used as a 12V switched line. So I'm not sure if it would make any difference or not.
 
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