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Well my tuck would do the same thing, die and then start after she sat for a while. I'd check to see if I had spark and I wouldn't. Let her sit and then she'd start.
So finally I replaced the pickup in the dizzy and she worked great, no problems for about three years ago then the problem came back. I put in a new pickup and still she wouldn't start. I threw in an aftermarket module from Mallory and she fired straight up. Then a month later same problem so the coil was replaced and it worked great for about 5 months now the same problem.
A couple of days ago she died, no spark. After a few minutes spark then no spark. Had her towed home and she started right up.
I'm replacing the distributor because I think that's the problem. My Bronco is a 1980 with a 351M rebuit motor.
I have a wire running from the bat directly to my after market ignition module. I believe the red switched wire going to the module is a solid red but I'll have a look. Thanks
I had 3 blue grommet modules go on my '85 351 over about a 4 year period. First was a Ford, second two were Standard Ignition parts. All died when hot then came back when they cooled down. When I replaced it the third time I used a MSD-6a and added a switch so the pickup fed either the new stock module or the MSD-6a. With the MSD supplied coil connector I could switch to the backup (stock) ignition in about 2 minutes under the hood. It was nice to have the peace of mind of the backup there, but ones I switched to the MSD I never needed it and the spark was sooo much better. As to your popping and flat feeling in the motor, that could be a fuel pump going too. Mine gave those problems when warming up then fine all day, then the next day same issues. Finallly pump gave out.
What if you are running MSD ignition? Mine is having the same problem but i think its because my alternator is only a 55 amp and the guy that built the engine ran an electric fuel pump, electric fan, and the msd ignition without beefing up to a bigger alternator. plus it is running hot so i am going to replace the fan with a bigger one.
Don't forget the resistor (hot) wire from the coil to the ignition switch. If it burns out, vehicle no start.
D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire (Motorcraft DY-263) 49" long; color coded red with two green stripes
I checked and there two that are joined by a black rubber connector. That goes into one wire which I'm using as the 12V switched source. Why would a wire be a resistor wire? I never heard of it before.
The coil is designed to provide a full voltage spark with the 8-9V generally available while the engine is cranking.
The resistor wire cuts the voltage to the coil when the engine is running to prevent the coil from burning up. A resistor wire is made with impure copper and a high temp insulating cover to stand the heat generated in the wire.
I've got a lot of play in the base that holds the pickup in the dizzy. So much play that the armature touches the pickup. I bought a new dizzy to through in next weekend.
The coil is designed to provide a full voltage spark with the 8-9V generally available while the engine is cranking.
The resistor wire cuts the voltage to the coil when the engine is running to prevent the coil from burning up. A resistor wire is made with impure copper and a high temp insulating cover to stand the heat generated in the wire.
I'm using a line directly from the battery to my Mallory Hyfire 6A ignition module but the wire you speak of is being used as a 12V switched line. So I'm not sure if it would make any difference or not.