Ignition modules
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Junior User
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From: west michigan
Ignition modules
Do ignition modules (82 full size Bronco) go bad slowly or all at once? I've had a couple die when parked (wouldn't start) but have been told they will slowly go bad. I didn't want to take anybody's word on it until I asked you guys.
Lately the old Bronco has been running flat and every so often it starts to miss and pop through the exhaust. I haven't really checked anything yet but thought I would ask about the module first.
Oh yeah, its an '82 with a '69 351 Windsor / Holley 650 dbl pumper.
Thanks, Travis
Lately the old Bronco has been running flat and every so often it starts to miss and pop through the exhaust. I haven't really checked anything yet but thought I would ask about the module first.
Oh yeah, its an '82 with a '69 351 Windsor / Holley 650 dbl pumper.
Thanks, Travis
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Along with the ignition module (12A199), there's the pickup coil (12A112) in the dizzy. Both are prone to failure. The usual scenario is at first: the vehicle will die, then restart after a few minutes. After a while, it won't start at all.
Running "flat" means what? Popping through the carb might be caused by a failing module/pickup coil...it might not. It could also be caused by many factors including: timing, plugged fuel system/fuel filter, failing fuel pump, dirty carb, EGR valve, thermactor (smog pump) air by pass valve..etc.
Running "flat" means what? Popping through the carb might be caused by a failing module/pickup coil...it might not. It could also be caused by many factors including: timing, plugged fuel system/fuel filter, failing fuel pump, dirty carb, EGR valve, thermactor (smog pump) air by pass valve..etc.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 21, 2007 at 04:44 PM.
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From: west michigan
When I say running flat, I mean like the timing being retarded (which I haven't checked yet). The popping has only happened a half dozen times in the last two weeks. I had some fuel issues a while back when I had an electric pump but since I switched back to a mechanical one its been OK.
A couple of things I've noticed lately also is that when I start it after its sat overnight I have to pump the gas a bunch of times before it will fire. Also it idles kind of rough and wants to quit if it drops below 600 RPMs. I know it used to idle better so I know somethings up.
A couple of things I've noticed lately also is that when I start it after its sat overnight I have to pump the gas a bunch of times before it will fire. Also it idles kind of rough and wants to quit if it drops below 600 RPMs. I know it used to idle better so I know somethings up.
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From: Longview, TX
I recently replaced my ignition module on 94. First it quit for about two seconds at highway speed then kept going. Then died while pulling a trailer load of trick or treaters a month later. It restarted in about three minutes. Then three months later died on long trip pulling 4-wheelers while pulling into a strore. I waited five minutes then it restarted. Weater conditions were always humid and in the 80's. Then I found the solution here at FTE. A local small parts chain had Motorcraft $30 less than the dealer. So far, so good. It is probably in my head but I think it might run a little better but not noticebly. If yours is mounted to a heat sink on the fender like mine you need a 5/32 thin walled deep socket which I found at the zone after a lot of shopping. You may want to pursue other factors like NumberDummy said before throwing a $100 module at it. A wet rag might be handy to put on it if it dies once...
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Heat has been the enemy of Ford modules. originally the old style square modules were on the left fender inner apron about 20" from the radiator support, then Ford moved them back and down the inner fender apron in 1987. That helped a bit. The worst was the ones mounted on the dizzy (E43Z-12A297-A = POS). Ford recalled 5 million of those several years ago. I wonder if the new ones are any better. Ford mechanics back in the late 1970's used to call DuraSpark "NeverSpark." If you ever owned a 1976/78 Ford anything with a red module, you'd understand why.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 22, 2007 at 07:08 AM.
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From: Longview, TX
Yep. A new 1976 Mercury wagon taught me the wet rag trick. It sure helped the the rear seats "are we there yet gang" when they became became very upset with no A/C out in nowhere. BTW, new Motorcraft is a different number.
Last edited by b4hntn; Apr 22, 2007 at 08:39 AM. Reason: forgot something
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by b4hntn
Yep. A new 1976 Mercury wagon taught me the wet rag trick. It sure helped the the rear seats "are we there yet gang" when they became became very upset with no A/C out in nowhere. BTW, new Motorcraft is a different number.
It took Ford months to get the new modules to the dealers. Then it was discovered that some were the same old batch, and they were failing too (while the cartons were printed D9AZ, the modules were marked D7AE). The only way to try and make customers happy was to buy used RED modules (marked D6AE) from cars/trucks made in 1976 from junkyards, which while still using the red module, weren't as prone to failure as the 1977 module. By the beginning of 1979, there were very few yards in the Los Angeles area that any 1976 red modules existed...we cleaned most of them out. It was hard to face all those customers back then and explain the problem.
And ppl wonder today why customers started buying Japanese cars. Well, here's one damn good reason.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 22, 2007 at 02:48 PM.
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From: west michigan
Well it's never died on me. I had a 81 Fairmont that went through a few modules. Each time was the same; car ran great, then wouldn't start.
I pulled the carb off this afternoon and everything looked good. One of the big rubber vacuum caps on the base of the carb was getting bad but other than that it was clean and full of gas. I'm going to throw in a new power valve and accelerator pump before I put it together. I know I have to pump the gas a bunch of times before it will start after its sits for 8 hours or more.
I think I will check for weak spark after I get the carb back on. The distributor, wires and coil are less than a year old (which I know means nothing) so thats what was making me suspect the module was getting weak.
I pulled the carb off this afternoon and everything looked good. One of the big rubber vacuum caps on the base of the carb was getting bad but other than that it was clean and full of gas. I'm going to throw in a new power valve and accelerator pump before I put it together. I know I have to pump the gas a bunch of times before it will start after its sits for 8 hours or more.
I think I will check for weak spark after I get the carb back on. The distributor, wires and coil are less than a year old (which I know means nothing) so thats what was making me suspect the module was getting weak.
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Placing a wet rag on the module to keep it cool.
The blue grommet modules were the good ones. Never had a problem with those. I think Ford sold the red grommet module specs to the aftermarket module makers... Those are real POS modules now,
The blue grommet modules were the good ones. Never had a problem with those. I think Ford sold the red grommet module specs to the aftermarket module makers... Those are real POS modules now,
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From: right here in michigan
i had a problem one time where my bronco would be running fine and would just quit.let it sit a few minutes and would start.that time it was the magnetic pick-up.
one other time it would run a long and slowly die.let it sit a couple minutes and would start.replaced everything in the ignition and still did it.turned out it was the fuel pick-up sock in the gas tank.
one other time it would run a long and slowly die.let it sit a couple minutes and would start.replaced everything in the ignition and still did it.turned out it was the fuel pick-up sock in the gas tank.
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Originally Posted by bronco521
one other time it would run a long and slowly die.let it sit a couple minutes and would start.replaced everything in the ignition and still did it.turned out it was the fuel pick-up sock in the gas tank.
Mine was doing that last year. I had an electric feul pump on it and finally put a manual back on it and hasn't done it since. I know I've probably got weeds growing in the tank but haven't found the time (or ambition) to pull the tank. I kind of thought this was my problem this time but after pulling the carb as I mentioned before, I don't think it is. I'm going to run a compression check on it tonight.
Hey bronco521- I live about 10 or 15 minutes from where your avatar picture was taken. Are you a regular on the dunes?
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From: right here in michigan
i don't know about a "regular" but we are there every holliday weekend and try for a couple times in between,as long as nothing major breaks
.i live about two hours away from there.if i was as close as you,my truck and myself would be broken all the time.
i also had an electric pump when i was having those issues.still have one but now have a sumped tank.
.i live about two hours away from there.if i was as close as you,my truck and myself would be broken all the time.i also had an electric pump when i was having those issues.still have one but now have a sumped tank.
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Originally Posted by sivart
Do ignition modules (82 full size Bronco) go bad slowly or all at once? I've had a couple die when parked (wouldn't start) but have been told they will slowly go bad. I didn't want to take anybody's word on it until I asked you guys.
Lately the old Bronco has been running flat and every so often it starts to miss and pop through the exhaust. I haven't really checked anything yet but thought I would ask about the module first.
Oh yeah, its an '82 with a '69 351 Windsor / Holley 650 dbl pumper.
Thanks, Travis
Lately the old Bronco has been running flat and every so often it starts to miss and pop through the exhaust. I haven't really checked anything yet but thought I would ask about the module first.
Oh yeah, its an '82 with a '69 351 Windsor / Holley 650 dbl pumper.
Thanks, Travis
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