Ok I got a new camshaft position sensor with the synchronizer shaft and the tool. I am wondering how do you use the tool to align it. I do not get it. There are no instructions and the tool does go over the shaft but Im not sure which way you turn to align it. If anyone has done this can you please give me some instructions. Thank you

 

alright I finally got the camshaft position sensor installed and now that code is gone. The truck does still run very poor though. I found that when I disconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel rail there is no change in RPM which makes me think there is a vacuum leak. But I traced every vacuum line and cannot find a bad one. In the process I also changed out the engine mounts because one was bad. In the process I realized that there is a ground wire that is broken. The wire goes from the battery down to the bottom left side of the engine block near the oil pan. From the battery the wire goes down with the starter wires then about 1 foot before the starter its suppossed to connect with the engine block. How important is this ground wire. Thank you all for the help so far.

 

It's important. Replace it and get back with how she's running.

Fred

 

If the wire gauge is large, I'd suspect maybe it's the heavy duty battery to engine ground connection, used to make a good heavy duty current carrying capacity connection for the starter motor, alternator, ect, so it really should be replaced/repaired/refastened!!!!

In your vacuum leak search, did you remember to check the PCV valve????

If it's all gummed up & stuck open, the excess bypass air through it, can upset the A/F ratio.

 

Man,that dog Rockledge really can type!(and read too!!)

 

I think you may have a clogged cat. converter.Has the converter ever been changed? Sometimes they clog so bad that the increased back pressure blows off the hoses to the DPFE sensor.A telltale sign is if those hoses are off or cracked from xs heat.If the hose is off, when you reattach it, it will blow off again confirming the increased exhaust pressure.You can confirm by drilling several small holes just in front of the cc-this often improves performance.If you do thisyou should replace your cc soon-we always should be concerned about chronic low level exposure to carbon monoxide. Just my tcw Ed

 

Prerunner, to be sure use o-scope. I have USB o-scope. It is enought to see what is goin on. Looking at wiering diagrams I've learned, that problem may be in wiering.
Check voltages on sensors with DVOM.

118: Coolant Temp sensor circuit above maximum voltage/indicates below -40 degrees F
211: Profile Ignition Pick-up circuit failure
214: cylinder identification (CID) circuit failure

May be +5V voltage supply of sensors is damaged ore shot to ground with bad sensor. One exampel. Last year I had to repare Volvo Tracktor with D12D engine. The problem was that oil pressure was low, but fuel milage was bad and he could not drive up hills as fast as usually. The proble, was in fuel pressure sensor, it was shot to ground and voltage supply of other sensors was not 5V but 2.2V. So oil pressure gauge read low pressure, and boost pressure senros read whrong too. EDC used wrong data and ran like there was no enought air.....


It seems to me that U probably have wiering problem ore 1 shot to ground sensor and it cause 3 dtc codes. Your problem appeares periodically so it seems to me U have to start from wiering and connectors.

 

Ok im gonna replace that ground wire today. Also ed g-35 yes I replaced the cat less than a year ago so it better not be going bad again already. And Pablo-UA Im not exactly sure what a O-scope is but I am definately gonna check out my wire harness (especially the one to the camshaft sensor). I am hoping that it all clears up with the one ground wire im gonna replace but unlikely. Thanks again for all the help. I know for sure the truck would have either been in a shop for a long time or long gone and sold and most likely junked by now. Your help has kept yet another FORD on the road. (Let that be up to you whether thats a good thing or not )

 

You can quickly check to see how much difference replacing the battery cable to engine ground will make, by using a good heavy gauge & quality jumper cable, in parallel with the broken one. Say from the battery B- post, to a good clean unpainted metal spot on the engine. The jumper will temporarly take the place of the broken heavy gauge battery cable.

You may notice the engine will crank faster, when started.

 

Well guess what the truck runs back to normal again. All I did was replace the ground wire. I cannot believe that it was the problem. I have another ground wire running from my battery to my intake manifold because a while ago I read on here that 2.3's sometimes have a bad ground. The wire is 4 gauge so I figured that would be enough. Guess not since right when i replaced that ground wire to the engine the truck started right up and at first sounded like it did but then cleared right up. Thanks again for all the help everyone. I finally have my truck back

 

Good feedback & to hear you stuck with your trubleshoting & finally got your problems put right.

Yup, all the electrical & electronic equiptment our rides lug around now, require clean, bright & tight electrical connections.

Bad or missing ground connections & electrical connectors, are a major part of electrical & electronic problems on cars & trucks now days.

When a ground is missing or loose or dirty, the electical resistance for the circuit goes up & the current flow seeks out the path of least resistance & this could be through another systems ground connection.

So all sorts of stange things can begin to happen, if that other ground path isn't able to carry the load!!!!!

If the electrical resistance of the circuits ground connection goes too high, for the current it must carry, the operating voltage to the circuit will drop.

If it drops enough to be out of tolerance for the circuits design, the items on that circuit might not work at all, or maybe work poorly, or if the ground is loose, a problem may be itermittent.

So solving your problem has given all of us a good example & reminder, that ALL of our ground wires & straps, were put there by the factory, for good reason & it behooves us to take good care of them & keep them in place & clean, bright & tight!!!!

 

Congrats. Glad it was a cheap simple fix!!!

Fred

 

could you tell me the exact location of this wire, as I am having a similar but opposite problem with my truck (running rich) but it idles fine but bucks under load. Replaced all the maintenance things, and now looking for other culprits. Bad ground sounded most logical to me.

 

From the battery it follows the larger gauge wires down towards the starter but about 1 foot from the starter it connects to the left side of the engine. I know it is close to a 4 gauge wire so just follow the larger wires. It will connect to the engine block with a bolt.