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New fuel filter, clean the MAF sensor, I'd bet you got some crap on it. Cleaning it helped my mileage. The oil from the K&N will quickly do that. That's why I went to a dry filter.
Level2, your best tank is allmost = to mine, at 22.7, thats allmost 23 mpg, I get 24 and thats with a manual and bama. If you dropped that low, there's something not right, are you or have you thrown any codes? Like Zach, I stopped using k&N because of oil contamanation to the maf, I would give it a cleaning for starters.
With my car, I run a foam element filter as a matter of course (drag racing), but the thing to keep in mind is that I clean all parts of the induction system frequently. A paper filter on him would be way too restrictive. But, when I'm in the business of milking all available HP, I have to admit that this only means +2-3 horse and I don't know what the benefits would be for your application.
My dad (a Ford engineer) maintains that there is NO benefit in running anything but the factory type paper air filter. I don't remember what his reasoning is.
LOL, I guess I just took up all this space to say "I don't have an oppinion." I've got an Air Hog on mine, anyway.
IMO if you want to run an aftermarket air filter, best filtration besides a paper air filter, is a cotton gauze filter, or AEMs new dry filter. As for cotton gauze filters stay away from K&N. I'd recommend an S&B over them anyday. Way better construction. They also make nice prefilter covers that help a lot also.
I'll admit I don't have an S&B filter on my ranger, but it's mr winter car. For $20 I got the MAF adapter and some ricetastic blue air filter off ebay.
As for programming available, do us OBD-1 guys have the option of having the PCM/ECU (whatever you want to call it) tuned by someone (or buying the tuning software yourself), or are we forced to buy a chip, or a limited use handheld programmer?
I don't run a paper filter because there's no coolness factor to a boring ole paper filter, I run the aem dryflow on an k&n intake because aem doesn't make an intake for my truck yet. K&N sucks in large amounts of air as well as large amounts of dirt to go with it. When I was running the k&n filter, I could wipe the dust out of my airtube.
i have a 96 ranger splash 2.3.mazda 5 speed .k&n air cleaner.i live 35 miles from kingman.dirt roads.not much blacktop.the ranger got 22mpg before.after 25 mpg .more power going uphill.
2.3.explorer rear axle 3.73s.high flow cat.gibson dual exhaust with resonaters no mufflers.245 75 16 wrangler mtrs .it runs good for having over 200.000 miles.
the k&n cost 50.00 plus the recharge cleaner kit 25.00.its paid for itself .plus i tow a 12 foot trailer with a 200 gallon water tank .
it was worth it to me .
i have a 96 ranger splash 2.3.mazda 5 speed .k&n air cleaner.i live 35 miles from kingman.dirt roads.not much blacktop.the ranger got 22mpg before.after 25 mpg .more power going uphill.
2.3.explorer rear axle 3.73s.high flow cat.gibson dual exhaust with resonaters no mufflers.245 75 16 wrangler mtrs .it runs good for having over 200.000 miles.
the k&n cost 50.00 plus the recharge cleaner kit 25.00.its paid for itself .plus i tow a 12 foot trailer with a 200 gallon water tank .
it was worth it to me .
You got hosed on the recharger kit! You can buy those things all day long at O'Reilleys for $10 plus tax.
I used to run a K&N but trashed it, my IAC was so gummed up that I had to replace it. I now use a WIX paper filter wit no change in mileage or performance.
I never noticed anything either when i had a drop in k&N and also a whole K&N intake. I now use regular paper filters. Not that i mind, i was able to use the K&N kit on my F150 when i made some custom mods to it, but it does make a cool sound though.
I can honestly say, that I have felt a difference in every vehicle I've used a k&n drop in filter in, it was slight, but there was a difference. However, any filter that lets that much air through, has to let dirt pass as well. Thier flow is next to none, but thier filtering sucks. I could wipe the dust out of my air tube when using k&n.
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