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What should I do to keep a 351W in my early bronco cool. I only use it on the road with a little hunting in the winter and a little mudding. It gets really hot here in tennessee in the summer.
Thanks
Make sure you're fan shroud is on and not broken. Could go to an aftermarket fan that draws more air through the radiator, if you need cooler yet, go to a cooler thermostat.
An aluminum radiator and a fan shroud with a stock 7 blade fan will do a lot for cooling.
Be careful not to go too low a temperature with a thermostat. If it is too low, it will not allow the water to stay in the block long enough to remove the heat from it and it can actually run hotter.
If you are running an automatic, don't overlook the importance of cooling it as well. Heat transfer from the transmission can cause the engine to run hot.
Was this stock raidiator originally matched with this 351? If so, then of course it is possible to cool the 351. The engineers picked it for a reason. If not, then you are mismatching parts and the only way to tell if it will work is to try it. If it overheats then you have a problem.
is it posible to cool a 351w with the stock radiator? I think mine may need flushing.
It's definately possible. Your just pushing the envelope. It's not a bad idea to take the radiator to a shop and have them hot-tank it. If the motor was over-bored they tend to run hotter. Do the other sugestions first.
A good shroud is a big part. If those don't do it a 3 core radiator might be what you need. Nothing against RCrawler but I prefer a copper and brass radiator.
Nothing personal taken. I still run a stock core steel radiator that has a tough time breaking 195, even crawling on the hottest of days. With no shroud and a upright 8000 winch blocking airflow, no less. I keep saying that I will upgrade when it starts leaking or fails to cool, but it hasn't so far (knock on wood).
Why do you prefer copper over aluminum?
I've seen several marginal and badly overheating cooling systems with 4 core or stacked core radiators that were cured by replacing them with aluminum radiators. I've seen temperatures drop 50-60 degs in some circumstances.
Nothing personal taken. I still run a stock core steel radiator that has a tough time breaking 195, even crawling on the hottest of days. With no shroud and a upright 8000 winch blocking airflow, no less. I keep saying that I will upgrade when it starts leaking or fails to cool, but it hasn't so far (knock on wood).
Why do you prefer copper over aluminum?
Jason
That stocker might out last both of us!
The aluminum do cool better but I don't like the 2 down sides to them. Copper is easier to fix. Soldering a few leaky tubes is pretty easy. Aluminum oxidizes something terrible in NY with the massive amounts of salt they use on the roads. It's not uncommon for a car to need a new aluminum radiator every 4-5 years here.
You can still get brass and copper radaitors re-cored here for around $120. My father worked at a Ford radiator and heater core plant until it closed. There's still plenty of guys around here that opened shops when the plant closed.
wildhorses has one for about 275 for a four core, will that cool it???
That's a good price for a 4 core. My guys show a 4 core for $299. If you have a large winch, tranny cooler, or an A/C condersor in front of the radiator you might want to look for a 3 row. The 4 rows tend to max out how much air can be pulled through them.
Last edited by ken75ranger; Apr 17, 2007 at 11:33 AM.
You'd think after all these years, the eastern part of the country would climb out of the ice ages and use something that won't destroy your vehicles, to de ice the roads.