carbon buildup removal
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: shawnee KS
carbon buildup removal
I have an old set of heads that I have stripped to rebuild for my Bronco. I have all the valves and associated parts out (except the valve guides). I am curious to know if there are any products or tricks I can use on them to remove all the carbon build up and crap out of the water passages. They have been soaking in the parts washer for about a week. I thought maybe Lime-away for the water passages, but I have no Ideas on the water passages. Any thoughts?
P.S. Am I posting in the correct forum? Please move to the correct one if not!
P.S. Am I posting in the correct forum? Please move to the correct one if not!
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From: Sapulpa OK
Remove the rust first using a chemical soak or circulate it for faster results. Do this before hot tanking. The caustic soda in the hot tank solution will "set" the rust and then it will have to be removed by hand.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Simple green takes carbon off in a couple minutes. I'm in the process of rebuild an engine for my Subaru, and I have never seen parts start this dirty end this clean. Seriously, that stuff is 10x better than Naptha.
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From: NY and VA
Some places use an oven to burn the grease off. I tried that once (not in the house) with an old stove. That didn't work too bad. Oven cleaner doesn't do a bad job.Another would be a drain cleaner with sodium hydroxide in it. Don't forget eye protection and good "rubber" gloves that will handle solvents.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: New Jersey
An old stove in your garage is a useful too. You can use it for baking off the crud off parts like cylinder heads. You can use it to bake on powder coating if your parts fit into the stove, and you can also use it for baking on ceramic coatings onto head chambers and piston tops. I've done all three, actually.
Simple green takes carbon deposits right off, as does a brush and kerosine. Water passages can be cleaned with a long bottle brush in a cordless drill. Obviously wear goggles. Muric acid also works very well.
So does a product called "Noxon" if you find that as well. It's sold as a chrome polisher, but it likes to eat rust so it serves this purpose as well.
Anytime I clean up anything like heads or a block with any of the above methods, I generally have it hot-tanked then I blow the parts out with compressed air with a very small nozzle that I've attached to a gooseneck type of thing, so it's stiff yet flexible enough to work through some of the poorly designed intake ports, water jackets, and so on.
Working with clean parts is a pleasure.
Easy-off works great for iron or steel heads - DO NOT USE IT ON ALUMINUM HEADS they will pit rather severely very quickly.
Simple green takes carbon deposits right off, as does a brush and kerosine. Water passages can be cleaned with a long bottle brush in a cordless drill. Obviously wear goggles. Muric acid also works very well.
So does a product called "Noxon" if you find that as well. It's sold as a chrome polisher, but it likes to eat rust so it serves this purpose as well.
Anytime I clean up anything like heads or a block with any of the above methods, I generally have it hot-tanked then I blow the parts out with compressed air with a very small nozzle that I've attached to a gooseneck type of thing, so it's stiff yet flexible enough to work through some of the poorly designed intake ports, water jackets, and so on.
Working with clean parts is a pleasure.
Easy-off works great for iron or steel heads - DO NOT USE IT ON ALUMINUM HEADS they will pit rather severely very quickly.
