Bucking bronco
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2001
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Bucking bronco
While I'm driving, my 88 XLT begings to buck. If i give it more gas, it seems to clear up for a little. I pulled the codes and got KOEO - 32 and KOER 46 13. The 32 code refers to the egr valve and the evp sensor. Should I change both? Would this be what is cause the bucking problem? I would hate to spend the $130 (for both) and find that that's not the problem.
Also, not sure what the other KOER 13 & 46 codes refer to.
Any help is appreciated.
(don't know what I would do without this board)
Also, not sure what the other KOER 13 & 46 codes refer to.
Any help is appreciated.
(don't know what I would do without this board)
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
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Bucking bronco
Check the valve and sensor first. There is another component which is a solenoid that opens the vacuum line to the EGR valve. I have had this solenoid go bad before.
To check your EGR valve, disconnect the vacuum line on the valve and connect a vacuum pump to the valve. With the engine running, apply some vacuum to the valve and the engine should start running rough, and may die. If this happens, your valve is fine. If no change occurs, your valve is bad.
To check the EVP, connect the pump the same as above and then disconnect the connector going to the EVP on top of the valve. You should see a change in resistance between the sensor terminals when you apply vacuum to the valve. Do this with the engine off.
The only other component that can fail electrically is the solenoid. You can find this by tracing the vacuum line from the valve to the drivers side of the engine. It is mounted on a rail with a couple of others.
Good luck and happy hunting!
To check your EGR valve, disconnect the vacuum line on the valve and connect a vacuum pump to the valve. With the engine running, apply some vacuum to the valve and the engine should start running rough, and may die. If this happens, your valve is fine. If no change occurs, your valve is bad.
To check the EVP, connect the pump the same as above and then disconnect the connector going to the EVP on top of the valve. You should see a change in resistance between the sensor terminals when you apply vacuum to the valve. Do this with the engine off.
The only other component that can fail electrically is the solenoid. You can find this by tracing the vacuum line from the valve to the drivers side of the engine. It is mounted on a rail with a couple of others.
Good luck and happy hunting!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2001
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Bucking bronco
Mine was doing the same thing. I borrowed a vacuum pump from autozone and tested my EGR system. The EGR valve seemed to be stuck @ first, but after some WD-40 and multiple vacuum pulls it loosened up. I was still getting the codes though, so I investigated further. The valve was opening with only 2.5hg like it should... but it wasn't opening smoothly. Kinda popping open. So I put a wrapped a WD-40 soaked paper towel around a screwdriver and cleaned the shaft that operates the valve. You can see it through the "window" at the bottom of the EGR valve.
I have not checked to see if the codes were gone but the bucking seems to be gone.
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Bucking bronco
I finally got a chance to test the EGR valve. With engine running, i pulled a vacum and the engine got rough so the valve is good (I think). With the engine off, I pulled vacum and checked the ohms. As the vacum droped slowly the ohms went up. Is the vacum supposed to drop slowly? The sputter is getting worse. I also get some fumes in the cab . I smells a little like exhaust. some more info - in the morning when the engine is cold, it puts along until the engine warms up 10-15 minutes. Finally, more times than not, I get a low rumble (could be exahust) but occaionally at low speeds (under 30) she runs quiet.I don't now if all of these symptoms are related.
Were do I go from here?
Thanks.
Were do I go from here?
Thanks.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 198
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Bucking bronco
... As the vacum droped slowly the ohms
>went up. Is the vacum supposed to drop slowly?
Technically it's not supposed to drop... but I don't think a real slow drop would cause any trouble.
How quickly is yours leaking down?
>went up. Is the vacum supposed to drop slowly?
Technically it's not supposed to drop... but I don't think a real slow drop would cause any trouble.
How quickly is yours leaking down?
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