Leaf Hangers
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2007
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Leaf Hangers
Ok so i have done some reading and found its pretty common for ranger leaf spring hangers to rust out which mine have
. So i have bought some new ones and plan to put them on using grade 8 bolts since they were originally held on by rivots. But i was curious if anyone knew a good torque specification to crank these bolts to or should i just crank the hell out of them?
Any help would be great.
. So i have bought some new ones and plan to put them on using grade 8 bolts since they were originally held on by rivots. But i was curious if anyone knew a good torque specification to crank these bolts to or should i just crank the hell out of them?Any help would be great.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
You did not mention bolt size. I would assume you are going to use 1/2" Grade 8. Use 90 foot pounds, BUT, watch the frame to make sure you are not bending it. If the frame starts to deflect, stop.
Then drill a small hole through the nut and bolt and cotter pin it for the safest way.
Here is what I usually do on radius arms and none have fallen off.
bolt/lockwasher/washer/material to be clamped/washer/lock washer/nut
(note all washers are grade 8 alloy)
Doing it this way, you can use an impact without holding the other side to get it tight. Then I use a torque wrench to get it within 90-100 popunds. If the bolt slips, I just throw a wrench on it while tightening the nut.
I hardly ever use lock-tite, but, if it makes you feel better, go for it
I know the spec for 1/2" Grade 8 is somewhere around 120, BUT, imo neither the frame or bracket can usually hold up to that on the Ranger/Bronco II suspension without deforming.
Then drill a small hole through the nut and bolt and cotter pin it for the safest way.
Here is what I usually do on radius arms and none have fallen off.
bolt/lockwasher/washer/material to be clamped/washer/lock washer/nut
(note all washers are grade 8 alloy)
Doing it this way, you can use an impact without holding the other side to get it tight. Then I use a torque wrench to get it within 90-100 popunds. If the bolt slips, I just throw a wrench on it while tightening the nut.
I hardly ever use lock-tite, but, if it makes you feel better, go for it
I know the spec for 1/2" Grade 8 is somewhere around 120, BUT, imo neither the frame or bracket can usually hold up to that on the Ranger/Bronco II suspension without deforming.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,118
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From: Williamson, NY
I had this same problem on my 77 F150's rear spring hangers. I picked up some southern replacements, but I also found that the frame had some rust around where the hangers mount. I sandblasted, Rust Encapsulated, and Painted the frame w/ Chassis Black and then I made 1/8" steel plates to put on the backside of the frame prepared in the same fashion as the frame and used them to strengthen this area of the frame. I used 1/2" Grade-8 Bolts, flat & lock washers to secure the assembly to the frame. Here's a picture of frame and hanger, you really can't see the backing plate I made in this picture.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ilion Herkimer
when i did mine i used grade 8 nuts, bolts and lock washers along with some thread lock. tightened them until the lock washer was flush with the nut with out squeezeing it to tightly
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From: Spokane, WA
Whatever you do, don't use nylocs! I would think 75-90 ft/lbs would be sufficient. My lowering kit came with nylocs and they stripped out at 50 lbs (grad 8 bolts). I went to the local "Fasteners" and they looked up the spec for me...1/2 nylocs were rated to 45 ft/lbs.
Kenny
Kenny
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