Also, ask around and see if you can get your hands on a Fuel Pressure Guage.
It's going to be needed for our next step. Something that'll read 10 PSI and under.

 

uggh I hate being on a school based network, won't let me look at pictures. I'll take a look at it when i get home, and check. Is there a way to check that gear without pulling the pump? isnt there like a cover on that timing chain I could take off and look in there? I think one of the diagrams Pete sent me had it on there. Send me a PM with your email so I can be in direct contact with you rather than having to go through the forum. What about getting the repair manual, does it help on anything or no. I dont have a problem paying for it if it is going to help but if there is false info in there I dont want to waste the cash.

 

Don't mean to be rude, but I am new to Ford Diesel, my background is with the Bosch mechanical system on Mercedes Benz. What time of injection pump/system.
Is the Ford system very sensitive to water? An unused fuel tank can have water condensing in it from the atmosphere, since diesel fuel is hydroscopic it will absorb some, and at the same time there is a form of algae that can live in the fuel and clog the filter, small orifaces throughout the engine.

 

That is the purpose of the water fuel seperator. I have drained it multiple times since the problem has occured and am using diesel kleen, supposed to disperse water. Unless the tank had like 2 gallons of water I dont think that that is the problem.

 

The fuel water separator can also be part of the problem..... shove a bolt up the drain hose and clamp it ........ when finished draining.

No way to see the gear without taking the IP off and then the cover.......

Repair manuals for the older trucks you need to cruise Ebay........ my info can be similar but not always spot on for older trucks. That is why I like forums who split 69 and 73 engines there are considerable differences in systems some times.....your mind focuses on the engine and years better.........

 

OK, it was just a thought. I still would like to know more about the Ford injection system. Is there a technical site available?

 

thats the one on the firewall right? come to think of it I don't think I have checked that one yet and might need to do that. I know the fuel filter next to the IP was changed when I bought the truck, and I've drained that one but not sure about the one on the firewall. I'll look for one of those manuals on ebay and if not I can see if a buddy of mine that works at the ford dealership can get a hold of one for me.

 

White smoke like that after a fuel stop may mean that you picked up a bunch of water from the fuel stop. That can be a big problem and cause enough trouble to make you do extra work if you're moving too quickly and you try to do other things rather than just get rid of the water completely. Then you changed the return lines and then the O-rings? If so, then you may still have some water in the system and you definitely have a lot of air. So keep going but go slow. Make sure you get rid of the water from the fuel filter and the water separator and make sure they're both filled back up with fresh, clean fuel or Diesel Kleen. Then you need to get the air out of the system by bleeding two injectors at a time(one on each side of the engine ) while you crank for no more than 20-30 seconds at a time. Let the starter cool down for 2-3 MINUTES between cranking attempts. You don't need to see a lot of fuel when you're bleeding them out, just a little presence of oily fuel residue. Close them down and loosen two others, do it again. It will probably try to start after you have 4 or 6 of them bled. Let it run and after a couple of minutes you should have all the air out of the system.

 

Ok pulled the bolts at the top of the water pump, one was 1 1/2 and ionno what the other was because it wouldnt come out because the pulley is in the way and I didnt feel like pulling the pully off if I was getting a bolt that fit. Got the 1 1/4 inch bolts like the diagram says and yah they arent even close to being able to fit so im sure its 1 1/2 now if they are both 1 1/2 I have to take the pully off anyways so this is just a complete waste of my time. I dont know if you sent me the wrong diagram, my engine is an 83 6.9 not a 7.3 just to let those who dont read signatures know

 

What doe sthe bolt end look like?
It doesn't matter if you have a 6.9/7.3 they're the same motor.
Were you able to find a fuel pressure gauge?

 

Plug in the block heater first in case your glow plugs aren't working.

Put the bolts back in and let's assume that is all okay for now. Do what I said before. Get rid of the water and get rid of the air. It ran good for 3 days so I would bet a ton of money that the bolts are all good.

Take off the fuel filter and drain what's in it into a clear glass so you can get a good look at it. It should be bright clear greenish, yellowish diesel fuel. If not then you need to get a new filter and set it to the side for now. Then drain the water separator into another clear glass or little white whipped cream tub and take a good look at it. If it is bad then you need to leave the valve open and pressurize your fuel tank a little with a rag wrapped around an air gun and let the fuel come out of the water separator until it is clear and clean. I've seen tanks have two gallons of water in them before. Now's your chance. Get rid of all the water once and for all. Then close the water separator valve and do it again until clear, clean fuel is coming out of your filter head. Now fill the NEW fuel filter up with Diesel Kleen and put it back on and loosen the steel lines that go to the front two injectors at the injectors and turn over the engine until you have a presence of fuel at the fitting and tighten it back up. Loosen the next one back on each side and two minutes later crank over the engine until you notice the fuel there. Tighten them and then loosen the next one back on each side and wait two minutes and crank it over until you notice fuel there..... It may have started by now but if not do the last two fittings and then crank it over again. You'll probably be up and running if you do what I just told you.

 

Why would you assume anything? If they have wrong bolts in the water pump....

White smoke is a classic sign of retarded timing, seeing as he states he has not messed with the IP. But has changed the water pump........

 

sure sounds like water, if there is that much water in the system you should be able to remove valve from water/fuel seperator put a hose over the valve housing, run hose into a clear glass jar or glass,crank it over till you get an inch or two of fuel in the glass let it sit for a few minutes if theres water in there it will be a glob of darker fluid at the bottom of the glassif theres huge quanitys of water in there you will see a flim of lighter liquid(fuel) floating atop the darker fluid,dont belive it would run at all with that water tho or we all be running water as fuel lol

 

it'd take a whopping 3 mins to confirm the proper bolts?

 

I'm not trying to step on your toes here but let's face it ... he already drove it for 3 days with it like it is. Then he got fuel and within 1/4 mile he dropped dead. My suggestion costs very little money and takes very little time and could give incredible results, like success. If it doesn't work then he can move onto the more involved, time consuming repairs. I like to eliminate the simple stuff first. Besides after the repairs he has done, my thing has to be done anyway, at least the air removal procedure. He could do mine and maybe not have to do yours.... or he could start with yours and then still have to do mine anyway, guaranteed.

I want to say that I always like what fonefiddy has to contribute. He knows his stuff and has helped me out more than once when I've been trying to diagnose and repair. He also seems to know about the more obscure repairs and troubleshooting procedures that many of us would never have guessed and have never heard of. Keep up the good work fonefiddy.