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If its goverened that low, its not reving that high. When it is at full throttle its is way way quiet like not even as loud as a cold start. The truck ran fine for a couple of days after the water pump was replaced so Im not thinking it is that. All I have done so far was change the return lines, and the injector O-rings. Pete said that my symptoms sound like that frm which gas is in the system so thats where that came from.
Can't access personal email at school so it will have to be later on today. What are you wanting a picture of? I got your images, and am going to print them off when I get home and try to remove that IP to take a look at it. Let me know what all you want picture of and I'll get em sent to you this evening.
STOP and START OVER. Lay back on the couch and talk to us
Need to STOP right where you are!!!!! Take a deep breath and relax........OK Don't touch anything else. By that I mean don't touch anything new. Don't loosen any nuts you haven't already screwed with and don't touch any screws or wires or anything new!!!!! Now where were we..... START OVER. From the beginning. Original problem or reason for working on it in the first place. symptoms, diagnosis, fixes, thoughts, etc.. Right now don't use your hands. Use your brain and tell us everything you've thought and done and touched in accurate order and detail. Something went wrong along the way and we need to figure out what it was. Stop shooting from the hip and start taking accurate pin-point aim. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ON, NEAR OR AROUND IP. Put your tools away for a little bit and we will figure out a course of action for you to take that involves tools. Try something like this from Fonefiddy PLUS more step-by-step history on this situation - Can you be a little more specific? It seems like your jumping all over the place.
1: Does the truck start as it's supposed to? GP's on for 10-15 secs? Starts within 10-15 secs of cranking? Does it smoke when started?
2: After the engine warms, does it accelerate smoothly? If not, does it smoke while trying to accelerate? What color is the smoke?
3: Did you move the Injection Pump? Did you remove the Timing Gear Cover?
4: Have you confirmed that the upper water pump bolts have not contacted the IP timing gear?
5: Where did this thought of Gasoline being introduced come from? Is there Gas in the fuel tanks?
Last edited by F350_Hauler; Apr 5, 2007 at 09:45 AM.
1: Water pump cracked, got replaced truck ran fine for 2 or 3 days after the new pump was put in.
2: the 2nd or 3rd day after the pump was put in, I came home from school to get money and drove to the gas station. Filled her up and added diesel kleen like normal. On the way home from the station about a 1/4 mile away, I had a complet loss of power. Pedal was to the floor and was only going about 10 mph. When I shifted into 2nd gear, it died. Started it up and it sputtered the whole way home, blowing heavy clouds of white smoke. The sputtering sounds like a top fuel dragster does, but not that loud. Took the muffler off to get a better idea of the sounds coming from the engine and it shot out white smoke in bursts about every 1 to 2 seconds. Came on the forum and asked what could be the problem and someone said to check the return lines for leaks. Changed the return line and still not running.
3: Changed the injector O-rings, no more white smoke but still sounds like a drag car, and when I push the throttle to the floor it doesnt get rpms and when i let go of the throttle its starts sounding like it will die and will only idle at full throttle. Although it starts up fine with the pedal to the floor, at full throttle(more like idle) its still sputtering.
4. Thought it might be bad fuel so I went and got 5 gallons of fresh diesel, added diesel kleen, and put it in my front tank (kept empty for about 6 months). Switched tanks and still the same problem. and thats where I am at now.
It is so hard to relax, My truck hasnt ran in about 4 months, and I recently flipped my daily driver (2001 saturn SC2) and am currently without a vehicle. I just don't know what to do next, and I leave for california on the 17th and am afraid my parents will sell my truck while im gone. They are getting sick of it sitting in the driveway and paying insurance on a broken vehicle. So yah that whole relax thing aint easy. I hope that helped some
1:We need to confirm that you have the proper bolts in the Water pump. Where'd you buy the water pump from? When you replaced the water pump, were all the bolts the same length? Pull one of the upper bolts out, and inspect it for any wear on the end. If the bolts have hit the IP gear, it could have caused it to jump a tooth, or more, causing severely retarded timing. So, Lets get this possibility out of the way FIRST.
2: Are you absolutely sure you didn't put gasoline in the tank? I think I read that the fuel smelled funny. Try to explain that.
water pump bolts? Injectors? gas in fuel? Bassproguy- This may be redundant but it might help us help you if you wrote a detailed history of the modifications you have done recently and try to associate when the symptoms appeared in relation to those changes. There are a lot of people trying to help getting confused. Just try to stay focused and rule out one issue at a time and you will get back on the road-best regards-jacksfirstdiesel BTW the return line connection to the filter header is a low pressure priming line Intended to ensure the injectors are wet from lift pump pressure before the IP I believe. The most recent modifications in this thread talk about O-rings this must mean there is air in the fuel delivery system.
Never in a million years would I mistake a gasoline pump for a diesel. I get my fuel at walmart, the diesel pumps are totally seperate from the gas ones, theyre big and green. The only way there would be gas in the system is if someone put gas in it while it was parked outside my friends houe for a week after it roke down. Don't see why anyone would waste the money to put gasoline in someone elses truck because my truck doesnt have anything indicating that it is a diesel except for a small emblem. If I remember correctly, the only long waterpump bolts were the ones that bolted the AC compressor and alternator brackets to the pump. I didnt do the install so I can't assure you of that one but I will take the top ones out and see if there is any wear. The pump is from Oreilly dont know what brand
Ok now we are getting somewhere. Everybody is starting to get on the same page-that's good. 1 there is a funny smell to the fuel 2 a recent cooling system work 3 white smoke Let's throw out the gasoline in the tank idea -this would blow something up not idle at full throttle and smell funny -ok back up to the water pump and white smoke go with what fonefiddy says- you need to qualify your work on that job. I don't know what would happen if bolts were not of the approriate length and I refuse to cloud the picture with more conjecture-basspro--you can figure this out-take your time and think back to when you put the water pump on- did you notice any differences in the gasket pattern little observations in the back of your mind that mad you say hmmm and then went back to work. Lets concentrate on that and we will get to the fuel system later!
the old waterpump and the new looked Identical. I didnt do the install so I wouldnt know about anything that went wrong on the install. The gasket was the one that came with the new pump, and the guy also put blue stuff on it. I pulled one of the bolts at the top, the one the repair manual said was different size, and it still had threadlock on the tip and the threads so i dont think it came into contact with the timing gear. Do I have to take off every bolt on the waterpump or can I just take off the ones that are supposed to be bigger and if one is short go from there? Also when taking these bolts off is removal of the fan assembly necessary? Like I said, the truck ran fine for 3 days after the pump was put in, and im not sure but Id figure that if something like a bolt was inhibiting the gear from turning right it would be instantaneous.
Last edited by bassproguy07; Apr 5, 2007 at 11:52 AM.
Reason: clicked post too early
Not at the moment, Im in school till 225 and i wont be home till about 3 or so. Should I just go buy the Diesel Repair Manual? and refer to the diagrams and what yall are saying or is it possible to just explain it over the forum. Pete (PLC7.3) sent me a bunch of picures and diagrams and I am going to try and look at that this afternoon. Go ahead and explain what you need to and I can check it when I get home.