Original Gauges
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Hudson, OH
Original Gauges
All, I want to start hooking up my old gauges. The PO installed a little hangon panel below the dash, and I would like to go back to original. First step is to sort thru this thing about installing a "resistor" in the power wire to the inst cluster, to avoid burning up the gauges, as my truck now is a 12 volt.
Can someone point me in the right direction to find out about this.
Thanks in advance, Jim
PS: My truck is a 1951 F1 with a 302 & C4, everything else original
Can someone point me in the right direction to find out about this.
Thanks in advance, Jim
PS: My truck is a 1951 F1 with a 302 & C4, everything else original
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Monterey, Indiana
There have been a couple of articles about this but is seems to me to exchange those with 12 gauges would be a lot easier. I seen in one of the parts book where you can get the gauges and senders and I didn't think it was a ton of money. More than the resistor but I would guess a lot less trouble.
Max E
Max E
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Jim,
The step down resistor is cheap, easy, and readily available through NAPA auto. I don't recall the part #. I think Ford used it on the truck gauges up through 1960.
It seems to me in previous posting that it was priced less that $20
Bobby
The step down resistor is cheap, easy, and readily available through NAPA auto. I don't recall the part #. I think Ford used it on the truck gauges up through 1960.
It seems to me in previous posting that it was priced less that $20
Bobby
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Check the past threads; there's a lot more to it in your case because you are hooking up an engine that uses variable resistors, to one that uses bi-metal pulsing senders. You have to use the original senders or buy a set of very custom gauges that are made to work with the 302 senders.
Doug51F-1 did the exact same set-up, maybe he will chime in.
Doug51F-1 did the exact same set-up, maybe he will chime in.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: okla
I tried the voltage reducer with little luck. Now, it could have been the guages and not the reducer, but I changed to aftermarket guages. Jim you are welcome to my reducer and guages if that would help. The 12 volt repos are sold by Mid Fifty I believe. Joe
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From: Kalispell, MT
Just a posting tip guys. If you forget to include something in a post, you have 1 hour to edit your previous post. Bottom right corner of your msg has the 'edit' link.
On topic: gauges need to match the senders.
Stock senders and gauges upgraded to 12V, just add the CVR that was used up thru the 70's on Ford cars and trucks.
'Modern' senders need new gauges - most will be 12V already.
Trying to use new senders with stock gauges is what Ross covered.
On topic: gauges need to match the senders.
Stock senders and gauges upgraded to 12V, just add the CVR that was used up thru the 70's on Ford cars and trucks.
'Modern' senders need new gauges - most will be 12V already.
Trying to use new senders with stock gauges is what Ross covered.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 223
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From: Monterey, Indiana
I didn't know you could update your message either. Sorry I'll try and remember this. Not much of Puter guy any way.
I found the gauges and senders in the NPD and it lets you keep your org dash look and I would think with the senders with them it shouldn't be a problem hookem up
Max E
I found the gauges and senders in the NPD and it lets you keep your org dash look and I would think with the senders with them it shouldn't be a problem hookem up
Max E
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Athens, GA, USA
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Check the past threads; there's a lot more to it in your case because you are hooking up an engine that uses variable resistors, to one that uses bi-metal pulsing senders. You have to use the original senders or buy a set of very custom gauges that are made to work with the 302 senders.
Doug51F-1 did the exact same set-up, maybe he will chime in.
Doug51F-1 did the exact same set-up, maybe he will chime in.
I used Runtz Solid State voltage regulators on each of the guages. The amp guage of course doesn't need anything but the battery cable running through the current transformer loop. You have to use sending units from the flat head motor to work with the oil and temp guage. Ross hooked me up with a temp sender from a Flatty and I had an adapter made to fit it into the intake on my 289. So far they all are working fine.
I bought the Runtz regulators from a guy on E-Bay. Just did a search for "Runtz", I think I paid about $15 each for them.
Good luck with it and let us know how it turns out.
Doug
Senior User
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From: Topeka, KS
I found the inventor of the"Runtz", actually lives locally in Clay Center, KS. I just bought 3 of them from him for fuel, oil, and temp. The ammeter doesn't care about voltage. Bought one of his books for conversion of 6 to 12V. He seems extremely knowledgeable. I'll wait to see what wisdom is in his manual and let you know.
http://fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/parts_counter_2.html#runtz
http://fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/parts_counter_2.html#runtz
Last edited by stewards68; Apr 6, 2007 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Error in web address
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
I've never understood why anyone would spend the money or go to the bother to install 3 runtz voltage drops when you can install 1 CVR (constant voltage regulator) that is a stock piece. Available in every Ford car or truck in every junkyard OR available for early 70's Fords from your local parts jockey at NAPA, etc