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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Original Gauges

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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:09 AM
  #16  
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The short answer is: 'Cause I didn't know any better? What do these CVR's look like, and do they make the 6V guages work with 12V? And if so, why do all the catalogs list 12V guages for the '55's, '56's, etc.?
 

Last edited by stewards68; Apr 7, 2007 at 07:19 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 09:49 AM
  #17  
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I sorted this stuff out 'cause I'm cheap

The CVR is a small metal box (maybe 1"x1.5")with two connectors for the wire 12V in and 6V out. Early varieties have a threaded post later used tabs for push-on connectors. Up under the dash near the gauge cluster.

Ford used 6V gauges until mid to late 70's. The gauges in these old trucks are all powered from one hot wire so just use this upstream of the first gauge.

Why all the 12V gauges in the catalogs? Advertising. Money. $20 vs. $250-350.
 

Last edited by mtflat; Apr 7, 2007 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #18  
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Common FoMoCo CVR's

Originally Posted by mtflat
I've never understood why anyone would spend the money or go to the bother to install 3 runtz voltage drops when you can install 1 CVR (constant voltage regulator) that is a stock piece. Available in every Ford car or truck in every junkyard OR available for early 70's Fords from your local parts jockey at NAPA, etc
B7A-10804-B .. CVR 1957~1960

B9MZ-10804-C .. CVR 1959~1970's

C6DZ-10804-A .. CVR 1966-1970's

D1AZ-10804-A .. CVR 1971-1986

Some of these have two connectors, some have three.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 7, 2007 at 10:27 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 10:13 AM
  #19  
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Progress

Now we're getting somewhere. I found this interesting article on our site; https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...on_Guide_.html
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 10:18 AM
  #20  
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I'm with you MT, I use the NAPA CVR for all of my gauges and haven't had any problem whatsoever. Cost me $21 (I wanted a brand new one), but like you say, they are laying around every decent boneyard......
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:22 PM
  #21  
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Please explain a little more on how this works
Thanks
Max E
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #22  
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It is just exactly like a turn signal flasher inside, a bimetal spring strip that opens/closes a set of contacts. So it takes a higher voltage and sends it out in pulses, resulting in a ragged "average" lower voltage. It cycles much much faster than a flasher, tho.

In this case it is open (0 voltage) about 50% of the time, and closed (12v) about half the time, which results in the gauges seeing a 6v net voltage. The gauges react slowly to change, so they don't swing noticeably as the CVR cycles.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mtflat
I've never understood why anyone would spend the money or go to the bother to install 3 runtz voltage drops when you can install 1 CVR (constant voltage regulator) that is a stock piece. Available in every Ford car or truck in every junkyard OR available for early 70's Fords from your local parts jockey at NAPA, etc
I tried one first, but it's just a bimetal switching power supply and with the bimetal switching going on in the flat head sending units as well, my guages were extremely inaccurate. Some folks have had good luck with them, I didn't. I installed the Runtz, which provide constant voltage and my guages work much better. Maybe it's just my situation.
 
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