I have a 1987 F-150 Tilt Wheel. The rod that goes from the ign. switch down the inside of the column broke.

Does anyone know how to replace this this rod?

Can you buy them new?


Thanks for any help, James

 

yes you can buy it and it is a fun Sunday project to replace it. but you get to learn some new stuff about your Baby. pick up a Haynes Manuel it will help. if you get in a pickle post bake here and you will get a lot of help.

good luck.

 

The one in my 89 broke. I disassy per manual, took the broken part to ford, walked in, didn't say a word, just waved the part at the guy. He smiled went in the back and in 15 seconds had the new part in his hands and was back at the counter. I said, "um common failure part uh?", he said, " you could say that.".
What I can't understand is how that fn part could break....when you see it you will know what I mean!!!!

Have fun!!!!!

Jim

Make sure that you put the steering wheel exactly centered before you remove it or Mark the splines. Otherwise your steering wheel may be crooked when your done.
That drives us **** guys crazy.....

 

remember that the first thing to do is disconnect the battery before you start tearing the column apart.

 

Quicklook2------------amen!!!!!

 

That part is called the Actuator. Here's my type-up from when I did mine about a month ago:

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

 

Had mine fixed for the second time in Jan. that's just since I've owned it.

Can't someone make one out of hardened steel or something? These replacements are no better than the original, which must have been made of pewter.

I've had bread sticks that were tougher.

 

are you referring to the metal rod that runs down the column on the topside?Far as I know you don't need it.......they didn't run em in the 70's just the 80's.....breakin one is a real easy way to um start the truck if you lost the keys.

 

It's not the metal rod on the top. It's a link that actuates the ignition switch. When it breaks the key will turn clear forward to on but there's no start. It is pewter and only on the 87-91 tilt columns. Parts stores carry them in the HELP rack, but they're probably no better than the original.

BTW, GM has a similar piece that serves the same function that breaks just as often. Do one of them and these will seem like nothing.

 

When I did mine, I cut off the new one just past where it enters into the square slot in the column. I left enough so it would ride into the square slot ok but not go down to where it locks the shifter. You'll see what I mean when you get it apart.

This served two purposes -- it let me change the rod without taking apart the tilt part of the column (saves time) -- as long as you can get the broken pieces out. Also, I believe that it will keep it from breaking in the future. Without the column shifter, the only stress on it is from the ignition key and switch -- which doesn't seem like much. I think the shifter is what puts all the stress on it, like shifting out of park while on a hill type situation.

Only downside is that now you can shift the truck without the key being in the ignition. Neutral safety switch DOES still work -- won't start unless in neutral or park.

Adam

 

89MustangGx. You have solved your issue so you don't have to deal with the problem but in my situation.................................
My truck is a manual 5 speed so there is no shifter.....The only forces on that part is the key......That part is a POS!!!!

Jim

 

Reading a bunch of threads on the ignition switch actuator and noticed the above about this part only being on the tilt columns. Is that correct? I was assuming my non-tilt column had one.

But I was mostly reading these because I ran into an issue today trying to disassemble my column. The bearing doesn't want to come off the steering shaft. It moved maybe a half inch and then got stuck on the shaft. Has anyone else run into this? And yes, I did remove the snap ring.

 

Brad, the ignition actuator is on all steering columns. up to 91 it was the pot metal piece, starting in 92 it was redesigned and became a plastic part.
can't help on the bearing thing, if it was bad enough to need a bearing i just swapped the column out for a better one.

 

Thanks Tom, I thought they all have that actuator (thru '91). I think the bearing is buggered up and I'll probably completely wreck it getting it out with anger at this point. Good thing I don't need this vehicle but on an "as needed" basis.

Relative to this step from the post above...
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
I got the lock cylinder removed and peered down the hole. I don't see a snap ring. Maybe a need a flashlight!?

 

to be honest with you, it has been at least 15 years since i have replaced an actuator on a pre 92 truck, and cant remember that snap ring. but if memory serves correct, i never touched it from the outside, i seem to remember doing it from the inside after removing the collar from the column