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shop says it is fine, all alignment stats are perfect, everything related is perfect and tight. BUT, has tight spot not allowing the steering to self-center (return to center). Says that maybe a tight ball joint or the gearbox is too tight. Going to take a better look this weekend.
IF the center nut in the power steering gear box was adjusted it will be difficult to return to center. This will also damage the recirculating ball system and result in having to replace the unit. Not cheap. If you might have to back off the tension screw 1/4 turn to see if this helps. Warning, if it wasn't doing this before you went to the shop, I would have to ask how did it get out of adjustment. This is not something to be diddled with.
I had a problem with my steering coming back to center or so I thought, it turned out to be my front axle u joints were binding. On my 2001 the factory joints had no grease fittings. Replaced them and all was fine.
I race a stock car, and we do alot with front end alignment. Camber is how much the tire leans in or out. Caster, or bump steer, is how the ball joints sit over each other. So with caster, if you had the wheel off and watch the spindle when you turn the steering wheel, the spindle will go up or down as it stieers left to right. If you didn't have any caster the spindle would stay parallel to the grould when you turned. We run toe out, how much depends on the track, the smaller the track the more toe out, I think on a street car you don't really want any toe.
I race a stock car, and we do alot with front end alignment. Camber is how much the tire leans in or out. Caster, or bump steer, is how the ball joints sit over each other. So with caster, if you had the wheel off and watch the spindle when you turn the steering wheel, the spindle will go up or down as it stieers left to right. If you didn't have any caster the spindle would stay parallel to the grould when you turned. We run toe out, how much depends on the track, the smaller the track the more toe out, I think on a street car you don't really want any toe.
on a 8000 # truck toe out(or in) equals accelerated tire wear.
positive caster= / no caster = I and negative caster = \ if you can picture how your upper and lower BJnts are positioned.
camber is how far the hub(wheel) is leaning in or out off of 90*.
and toe is toe in= //----\\ toe out = \\---// no toe= []---[]
The tolerances the factory calls for are in 1/10th degree increments, this is where a good alignment machine and a tech that knows how to operate it come in. it doesn't sound like much but if the right side is out of toe by -.05 and the left is out of toe by +.05 then you have an unacceptable toe. same with caster or camber, a good alignment tech will try to get within 1/10 of each sides respective measurements. As mentioned before tires, wheels, suspension part condition can all aggrevate the measurements.