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What would cause my front end alignment to keep going out ? The first time, I blamed ball joints, had it aligned and drove perfect for 1 day. then I blamed tie-rod ends and steering gear box, had it aligned and drove fine for a day or 2. now what ? All the front is new and the steering is tight, I had a dealer wrench neighbor under the truck and rolled the steering side to side, the spring perches are tight, the ubolts are tight, every thing is tight. I am taking it in again tomorrow for another alignment so it drives good at least for another day or 2. I dont know what is going on, but this is ruining a fairly new set of expensive tires. ( I also rotate tires every time I change oil)
no lift, I am running 285 Cooper Discover ST tires. The truck is just all over the road, like a drunk driver. Wanders so bad I fear hauling a trailer on the freeway. I have never had anything so bad in my life. It started to get really bad about 2 months ago. I put the tires on last fall, otherwise I would be blaming them. It is so bad, nobody else will drive it. If I had to describe it better, I could call it corrective steering. No shimmy, no rattle, just wander.
nope. pitman arm is tight. All that was checked when the new steering gear box was put in. I am thinking wheel bearings, but there is no noise. Also, the tires feather quickly on the outside edge. This time, we checked the alignment with a tape measure, the front was 1/8" wider than the rear.
I think the tire pressure is at 55 lbs, maybe more. I lost my good gauge and the other one only goes to 50 and about shot the stick out the end when I checked them.
i will have the shop double check that tomorrow. I will also ask them about the castor. I hope this is the last time I have to take it in. they have been good to work with and stand behind their work. Its just the inconvienence of dropping off my truck for half a day.
Ya i would agree with castor, you could even ask them to overcompensate and go with the tires angled, top in- bottom out(cant think what its term is) more than stock specs and try it. in this fashion the tires would wear on the inside first. It couldnt hurt to try since your going to the dealer so often anyway Mine has a 6in lift and my tires angle slightly that way, overall im pretty straight despite 35by15.5 tires. Good luck your situation sounds like a BIG pain in the ... You also shouldnt have more than 3-4 to 1 in play in the steering wheel
I am not sure if you made a typo or not... But I believe you should have 1/8 inch wider in the back of your tires rather than the front. So that it has 1/8 in toe IN.
I would add a little air to the tires. If the max is 65 psi run 60 psi just check and see if it helps. How are the track bar bushings? The other things could be a ball joint binding. That happened to me. There was no slop in it, but the dealer did the knuckle turning torque test per the TSB 01-3-2 and driver side lower was binding. Also front Hub/Bearing Rocking End-Play can cause that and with only .005" which is not even noticeable without a dial indicator. Check out TSB 03-11-2 for measurement instructions.
Hopefully its just a camber / caster issue.
Let us know what happens.
I am not sure if you made a typo or not... But I believe you should have 1/8 inch wider in the back of your tires rather than the front. So that it has 1/8 in toe IN.
This is correct, but 1/8" is a lot for toe in.
Just follow the specs for toe in. Camber is where the tires tilt in at the top and too much can cause inside or outside tire wear. I would set this to specs.
Caster tilts the tire forward but keeps the toe in and camber the same. This will cause the vehicle to track straight. IF it pulls to one side or the other one wheel can be set with a small amount of caster more than the other to compensate for road crowns. Jim
Whe I had my alignment done i did not ask what it was set at but when we do MCI buses we have the toe-in set to 1/16 to zero toe-in and the tires wear nicely. as for bearings it is possible but while at work these are checked on a constant interval since they put on about 5-6 thousands miles per week. It is funny when we check on the "new guys" trying to do a toe-in check and they just can't seem to get it right the first couple of times they do it.
shop says it is fine, all alignment stats are perfect, everything related is perfect and tight. BUT, has tight spot not allowing the steering to self-center (return to center). Says that maybe a tight ball joint or the gearbox is too tight. Going to take a better look this weekend.
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