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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

that slow killer...rust

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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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Unhappy that slow killer...rust

So, i have a 1960 f250 and I'm pretty new to this whole restore thing. Now, though my truck on the whole is fairly rust free, there are still some spots that need attention and I'm not quite sure how to address them. One of the biggest issues that i have is that where the bottom hinge of the driver's side door would mount to the cab is rusted out. Are there some replacement panels that i can buy or will i have to weld something in myself. I have already found some weld-in panels for the front quarter panels and rear of the cab, but nothing for the spots that i really need.

All of your comments and sugestions are greatly appreciated and this and the rust problem in general. I need all of your help. This rust is really getting me down. Thanks
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 11:28 PM
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Have you tried Mid Fifty? (1-800-252-1956 - or midfifty.com) On page 98 of my 2006 cataalog, they have a "Front Lower Door Pillar" with the hinge bucket in it. Is that what you are looking for?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Have you tried Mid Fifty? (1-800-252-1956 - or midfifty.com) On page 98 of my 2006 cataalog, they have a "Front Lower Door Pillar" with the hinge bucket in it. Is that what you are looking for?
Are they the same on a 60?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:48 AM
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OOPS. I missed that he has a 60 (again). My bad.

Maybe they are the same, though.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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Smile

i think that will do the trick. it looks like that is the same. but that is what i'm looking for. now my next question is...what is the best way to go about mounting those pieces?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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Either cut out the rust weld fresh rust free patches in or buy new body parts only way i know i hate it to
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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Dustin is right, cut out the rotted metal well back into solid steel then cut and weld in new replacement patches. Check under the surface panels for rotted out under supports as well and replace those too. Don't cut corners, it will come back to bite you later. If what needs to be removed is a major structural element, door post, floor, rocker panels etc. spend some time realigning, squaring, leveling and shimming the frame and cab so the doors fit and align properly then weld temporary supports (1x1" 1/8" wall square tubing is my choice for bracing stock, it's inexpensive and readily available) across all openings and diagonally as well to hold eveything in place before removing the doors and/or cutting anything loose (you can't put in too much bracing! Just think about where you'll be working and place appropriately so you don't have to cut them back out until you are all done. The time and money will be well spent in the end. I can't stress enough the value of buying and studying Ron Covell's videos: Basic Techniques for working with steel" and his new one "chopping and sectioning" to get a good feel and understanding of how to do body repair on old vehicles (www.covell.biz). Also do a search for my posts on various body work topics, I've discussed a lot of metal working how tos. Check out my galleries as well. And don't be afraid to ask questions!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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thanks alot. you guys are helping me out alot. but now i have another question. my f250 has the fleet side bed and the floor is totally rusted out. i have looked around alot and can seem to find any type of panels and the such for it. what is the best approach to this. should i replace it with a wooden bed or is there something out there for me that i haven't found yet? thanks
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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styleside...excuse my poor terminology
 
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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Looks like the board ate one of my posts again...
You could replace the floor with the bed floor out of another late model pickup, or aluminum diamond plate looks good! I suspect the styleside bed floor is structural (welded in?) in which case you would need to replace that structural strength with welded in steel floor or structural under bracing if you wanted to use something decorative. Just don't sandwhich a decorative material over a solid steel floor, trapping moisture in between will produce serious grief.
 
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