need 360 wake up help?

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Mar 30, 2007 | 07:03 AM

#31

ramarado

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From: arkadelphia, ar

Been away from the 'puter all week. Thanks for the replies guys. I live in Arkansas where we have NO state inspection, so not too concerned about emissions testing. I won't be using this truck that much except on weekends and don't plan to pull the engine unless it's just bad inside.

I'm not an expert but wouldn't advancing the cam require pulling it? I think what I'm going to do is the intake, 4v, header, flow thru muffler, and ignition update idea and see it that isn't sufficient.

To change the ignition to the electronic type can I go to a wrecking yard and pull the components off a later model (when did they start using it?) and exactly what components would I need?

Thanks again for all your input.

Larry

Mar 30, 2007 | 11:10 AM

#32

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

The cam stays in the motor, you need a replacement timing gear set that has muti-indexable keyways then set it per instructions.
Best to use a degree wheel to accurately set the cam to crank timing relationship.

As far as electronic distributors my guess they came about by the mid 70's.
I eliminated points in the 70's with aftermarket ignition systems that install in the factory distributor. Today run a Crane XR 3000 more than enough spark energy.

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Mar 30, 2007 at 11:15 AM.

Mar 30, 2007 | 11:47 AM

#33

krewat

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From: Long Island USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beemer Nut

Carl, I think a pre-'72 timing set, just bolted on, would take care of the problem without going to extremes

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beemer Nut

As far as electronic distributors my guess they came about by the mid 70's.
I eliminated points in the 70's with aftermarket ignition systems that install in the factory distributor. Today run a Crane XR 3000 more than enough spark energy.

'74 and up F-series, most had electronic ignition, at least the F150 anyway, in '74 (my '74 F250 didn't). But to be safe, I'd go for a '76 or so.

But you'd be better off using an aftermarket setup. The original Duraspark systems sitting in junkyards will introduce too many variables. Is the pickup good on the dizzy? Vacuum can? Drive gear? Duraspark box? Wiring? You get the idea

Apr 8, 2007 | 07:43 AM

#34

2tone73

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Joined: Jun 2005

Posts: 169

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From: Kissimmee

I wish I could understand this timing thing. My 360 would probably run alot better. I simply put a timing light on it and move the distributor til the white line I painted on the zero on the balancer moves til about 2 inches from that metal thing. Valves may rattle or backfires like crazy. I just haven't learned that aspect of engines yet. Please help!!!!!!

Apr 8, 2007 | 01:13 PM

#35

Bear 45/70

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From: Union, Washington

Do not mark zero degrees for timing. Mark 10° or 12° or whatever you will be setting the initial timing at. Then adjust the distributor until that mark lines up with the pointer, tighten dist. and recheck to make sure you didn't move anything while tightening the dist. hold down. Now check idle rpms and readjust to correct number and recheck timing again, reset as necessary until it is right.

Apr 8, 2007 | 09:47 PM

#36

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Quote:

Originally Posted by krewat

Carl, I think a pre-'72 timing set, just bolted on, would take care of the problem without going to extremes

krewat; no extremes just common sense smarts with motors, you can find cam and crank out of spec with OEM or aftermarket timing sets.
Best to check as a couple degrees off + or - makes a difference.
People who don't check I bet are the same ones that can run on 7 and not worry.

Apr 8, 2007 | 11:16 PM

#37

krewat

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From: Long Island USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beemer Nut

People who don't check I bet are the same ones that can run on 7 and not worry.

True, too true.

But for practical "I have no idea what a degree wheel looks like", slapping on a pre-72 timing set is as close as they'll get to "degreeing" a cam...

Apr 8, 2007 | 11:33 PM

#38

Mrcorey5

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Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 167

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From: Topeka, Kansas

These are great tips. My 73 360 2v sucks more gas than any truck ihave owned. I like the idea of advancing the cam. Is there a part #for the timing set that will push my cam forward?

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Apr 9, 2007 | 02:09 AM

#39

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Edelbrock's True-Roller timing set #7808 for FE motors.
They have 3 options for timing, zero straight up, +4 advance or -4 retard.
Even the cam lobes can be off from each other as well cam overall to crank hence checking with a timing wheel.