oxidation on coil pack "spring"
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oxidation on coil pack "spring"
When I just changed out a malfunctioning coil pack I was surprised to find a whitish powedery oxidation on the coil pack blade-like contact, on the "spring" that connects to the plug, and on the plug contact end of the "spring".
I also just had my plugs replaced and all of them seemed to have this same thing. Is there any kind of treatment that I can use on the metal parts at their contact points to keep the from oxidizing (or what ever it is) but still provide excellent conductivity for the spark impulse?
At first I thought dielectric grease, but isn't that supposed to be non-conductive?
I also just had my plugs replaced and all of them seemed to have this same thing. Is there any kind of treatment that I can use on the metal parts at their contact points to keep the from oxidizing (or what ever it is) but still provide excellent conductivity for the spark impulse?
At first I thought dielectric grease, but isn't that supposed to be non-conductive?
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Yes by definition "dielectric" implies NON conductive and this is exactly what you want
But beware not all "dielectric" greases are non conducting so caution is needed using any of the stuff-------- Less is always better then More
The theory is...non conducting grease on electrical contacts is displaced by the connecting action leaving a metal to metal conductive path while surrounding the entire area with the grease barrier to slow down corrosion and keep water out
Since you might get greases that are deliberately designed to conduct but still erroneously labeled as "dielectric" grease you need to be careful to use small enough amount and not bridge the electrical contact to ground unless you know the product is truly a dielectric
But beware not all "dielectric" greases are non conducting so caution is needed using any of the stuff-------- Less is always better then More
The theory is...non conducting grease on electrical contacts is displaced by the connecting action leaving a metal to metal conductive path while surrounding the entire area with the grease barrier to slow down corrosion and keep water out
Since you might get greases that are deliberately designed to conduct but still erroneously labeled as "dielectric" grease you need to be careful to use small enough amount and not bridge the electrical contact to ground unless you know the product is truly a dielectric
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Originally Posted by Fredvon4
Yes by definition "dielectric" implies NON conductive and this is exactly what you want
But beware not all "dielectric" greases are non conducting so caution is needed using any of the stuff-------- Less is always better then More
The theory is...non conducting grease on electrical contacts is displaced by the connecting action leaving a metal to metal conductive path while surrounding the entire area with the grease barrier to slow down corrosion and keep water out
Since you might get greases that are deliberately designed to conduct but still erroneously labeled as "dielectric" grease you need to be careful to use small enough amount and not bridge the electrical contact to ground unless you know the product is truly a dielectric
But beware not all "dielectric" greases are non conducting so caution is needed using any of the stuff-------- Less is always better then More
The theory is...non conducting grease on electrical contacts is displaced by the connecting action leaving a metal to metal conductive path while surrounding the entire area with the grease barrier to slow down corrosion and keep water out
Since you might get greases that are deliberately designed to conduct but still erroneously labeled as "dielectric" grease you need to be careful to use small enough amount and not bridge the electrical contact to ground unless you know the product is truly a dielectric
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Spark has a wonderful way of finding ground and avoiding the plug 
Just clean up the end of the cop with a wire brush (carefully), and replace all the boots and springs.
Put dialectric grease on the ends of the boot, preferably on the inner lip, and fit it to the COP. This'll keep moisture away from the spring and the end of the cop.
Then, when putting the cop back in, put dialectric grease around the seal lip on the boot. This will help keep moisture out of the spark plug hole.
Just clean up the end of the cop with a wire brush (carefully), and replace all the boots and springs.
Put dialectric grease on the ends of the boot, preferably on the inner lip, and fit it to the COP. This'll keep moisture away from the spring and the end of the cop.
Then, when putting the cop back in, put dialectric grease around the seal lip on the boot. This will help keep moisture out of the spark plug hole.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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Ah..but you did not have to track down the miss fires that were caused by my buddy who used a Kopr Grease for its thermal and anti corrosion qualities forgetting about the conductivity of the stuff and slathered enough on each plug to make the OUTSIDE of the plug less resistive then the center conductor and gap... wink
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