I have no idea about injector noise, although, I have similar noise(s), but it's not the lifters, I believe it's the belt-driven accessories or the timing components (chain & sprockets), but I haven't had time to take everything 'apart' and investigate further.

Actually, unplugging the temp sensor and getting a reaction like that is a good sign... or so it seems. O2 sensor being broken would explain a LOT. Replace the O2 sensor and then warm 'er up and re-scan codes and see where things sit. It may actually cure the problem. Again, you may also want to look at a lot of the electrical stuff, especially battery-related and ground-related as previously mentioned.

 

what size is that o2, 22mm ??

Is there a special tool or handed down wisdom to get that thing out of there?
Doesn't look like a whole lot of fun

Torch it ?

 

I forget what size the hex is on the O2 sensor, could b3 21-22 mm or 13/16 or some such. Best thing to do is get some penetrant (wd-40, pb blaster, etc.), and soak the area where the 02 screws into the exhaust header pipe and take a small hammer and tap on it -gently- then let it sit for a few minutes and repeat a few times, then try breaking the sensor free from the pipe. Since it's broken, you may want to go ahead and use a pipe wrench. Taking the sensor out can be a pain in the butt, especially due to where it's located on these things. A little time and patience pays off, though.

 

I'm gonna try that.

I think I might remove the top plenum and check the injectors, might as well clean it while it's off. Is there a archive post with tips on how to do it right and what to expect or avoid?

I've never messed with injectors before, would really hate to mess one up.


Thanks for the help, I'll keep ya's posted.

 

Not sure about here, but you may want to search -- also, if you really feel bold and up to the task and have a dremel kit, you could port match your upper and lower intakes as well as the throttle body - upper intake flange, which seems to be a somewhat talked about mod to do for better fuel mpg / power / etc.

The only thing about injectors is to make sure not to destroy the o-rings, but you may want to replace the o-rings while you're there (unless you need to replace all the injectors...). I think the o-ring kits come with the lubricant, but if not, any parts store should be able to hook you up (unless their parts counter people are blithering idiots).

 

Changed the o2 sensor tonight, have the battery unhooked now to reset.
I've heard it may take time for the o2 to (adjust), is that true ?

I'm assuming that means don't expect any immediate improvements ?

Believe it or not, the sensor was not hard to get out at all.
no rust, no corrosion, came right off and didn't seem that tight.

Talk about a happy camper, I expexted that thing to be a bear.

Raining now so my throttle job is kinda on hold. Dang I wish I had a garage !!


Moving Forward , one day at a time...........

 

I haven't had to change an O2 sensor that I recall, but my best guess is your first day of driving it should be all that's needed for run-in. The only time I've messed with an O2 sensor is changing exhaust manifolds and other exhaust work, and luckily was able to re-use the removed sensor(s) at the time. Good deal that it wasn't too much of a pain in the butt to remove... and I hear ya about the garage thing. My 'garage' is full, so anytime I want to tinker with mine, I have to hope for a clear day or take it elsewhere.

 

Took the plenum off yesterday, cleaned everything up a bit.
Cleaned the air charge/temp sensor, it was pretty gunked.
Distributor was fine.
Was going to mess with the injectors, but could not get to the bolts that hold it down. There were 2 bolts on the right side of the rail that I could not get to
at all so I left it alone. I'll try another day when there's more daylight.

next test will be the coolant sensor, last thing I can look for along with the injectors.

I'll keep ya posted.

 

I'm retired but I used to work on Diesel Equipment in the Oil Fields. My suggestion would be that if you have a problem with hard starting, rough idling , cutting out or missing, bogging down, lack of power(especially goin' up a hill or when you put a load on the engine) even when you turn on the lights or wipers...ALWAYS check the FUEL PUMP PRESSURE. If it's O.K. then try changing the FUEL FILTER. I've found over the years that the problem that you've described is almost always FUEL RELATED. After checking those 2 things...THEN start checking the Electronic Sensors, Controls, Relays, and what have you.
Also, 87' Bronco II's have 2 Fuel Pumps. One in the Tank(Low Pressure) and one on the drivers' side inside frame(High Pressure). Why they chose to put 2 fuel pumps in them, I'll never know! If either one of mine ever goes out though, I'll guarantee you I'll be finding a pump with 40lbs. of pressure to replace it with and do away with that setup real quick!
Anways, hope this helps.

THANKS,
Fenix2
Converse, LA


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
88' Bronco II XLT- 4X4, 2.9Ltr., 5 speed, Auto-Lock Hubs
"Mud King" Tires (31X10.5X15's)
COLOR: Lt. Silver Metallic w/ Flat Black
NAME: "QUICKSILVER"

LUV MY BRONCO!

 

Fenix2,

The fuel filter is on the low-pressure side of the fuel system, between the output of the in-tank booster pump and the main hi-pressure pump, on the two-pump setups. There is also a filter sock in the tank on the fuel pickup. Granted, check everything fuel-related, but this is a notorious problem that isn't always fuel-related, it's usually air or sensor or vacuum related.

 

Yeah, I'm focusing on either the fuel regulator or the injectors.

I don't have the neccesary tools per say to test the regulator, I have a volt meter, abouit it though.

Is there a way to tell if it's bad by unhooking it. I don't have fuel in the vacumm line and if I unhook the vacumm line to the regulator nothing really changes. Though I didn't try to rev it up much.

Also, did we discuss how to test the IAC voltage?
I don't remember if I got that info here or not .

Thanks, Tim

BTW, been reading a post on here about the A/C and effects on circuits, etc.
The only code i receive is for the A/C clutch (code 67)
I wonder..........

 

67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP

Unless that info is wrong -- I'd have to find my book for my reader. If you have no fuel present when you unhook the vacuum line from the regulator, it's good. To check pressure at the schrader valve on the injector rail, you'll need a gauge that will read high enough. Not sure if you can use a dial-type air gauge (like for car tires), but you can get the gauge at an auto parts store. There should be a procudure in the "Read First" thread at the top of the forum for IAC voltage testing, IIRC.

 

I'm gonna check the fuel pressure, see what's happening.
have a filter for it, think I'll check before and after installation and see how things turn out.

 

16 or so years later, I still own this truck and I never really nailed down that cold start issue. I actually came to research it and found my old post about it.