BII - Torque Converter Lock Up Test
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BII - Torque Converter Lock Up Test
Is there any way to simply test if the Torque converter lock up is working - without pulling codes?
(I have a different post going on the vacuum modulator - just want to cover my basis in case it is more. The problem is my A/T hesitates before shifting, not slipping, I have to let up on the gas and everything works fine. I just want to go under the hood once)
BII 1986 XLT, A/T V6
(I have a different post going on the vacuum modulator - just want to cover my basis in case it is more. The problem is my A/T hesitates before shifting, not slipping, I have to let up on the gas and everything works fine. I just want to go under the hood once)
BII 1986 XLT, A/T V6
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From: UT
Standard driving test to see if the torque converter clutch is locking:
1) Connect tachometer and vacuum gauge to the engine.
2) Drive down the highway at about 50-55 mph.
3) While maintaining steady throttle with right foot, tap brake with the left foot. Engine RPM/vacuum should both increase as the TCC disengages, then return to normal as TCC re-engages.
1) Connect tachometer and vacuum gauge to the engine.
2) Drive down the highway at about 50-55 mph.
3) While maintaining steady throttle with right foot, tap brake with the left foot. Engine RPM/vacuum should both increase as the TCC disengages, then return to normal as TCC re-engages.
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Just changed out the vacuum modulator - car shifts a little smoother but problem is still there. It appears to be more pronounced in the highest 2 speeds.
While driving at 55mph i tapped the brake and the rpms dropped - is the TCC working correctly?
While driving at 55mph i tapped the brake and the rpms dropped - is the TCC working correctly?
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From: UT
When you tap the brake, the RPMs should increase momentarily (as the TCC disengages), then decrease as the TCC re-engages. In your case, where you didn't see the expected result was it because of a problem with the TCC, or some other problem, or an error in performing the test, I can't say.
Another approach to the TCC. If the TCC is engaged, the engine RPM should move with vehicle speed just like in a manual transmission. So you're moving at a steady 50 mph, increase the pressure on the throttle (not too much or the computer will disengage the TCC) to accelerate, does the engine RPM jump and the vehicle speed catch up, or does the engine RPM increase with vehicle speed.
Another approach to the TCC. If the TCC is engaged, the engine RPM should move with vehicle speed just like in a manual transmission. So you're moving at a steady 50 mph, increase the pressure on the throttle (not too much or the computer will disengage the TCC) to accelerate, does the engine RPM jump and the vehicle speed catch up, or does the engine RPM increase with vehicle speed.
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Here is what I got from pulling codes.
KOEO
11-OK
10-Space between basic test and Continous Memory
63-TP Ckt below min voltage
32-EVP volt low (SONIC) or EPT ckt volt low (PFE)
Would any of these codes cause what may appear to be shifting problems at RPM??
Also, when I got the car to 65mph, held steady speed and tapped the brake I got no change in RPM - the second time the RPMs increased about 300 then settled back down - tried again no change??? And the RPMs increase as Speed increases until the car shifts then RPMs drop. Hope this helps
KOEO
11-OK
10-Space between basic test and Continous Memory
63-TP Ckt below min voltage
32-EVP volt low (SONIC) or EPT ckt volt low (PFE)
Would any of these codes cause what may appear to be shifting problems at RPM??
Also, when I got the car to 65mph, held steady speed and tapped the brake I got no change in RPM - the second time the RPMs increased about 300 then settled back down - tried again no change??? And the RPMs increase as Speed increases until the car shifts then RPMs drop. Hope this helps
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From: UT
TPS signal is one of major inputs the computer uses to determine when to engage/disengage the TCC, but wouldn't effect any other shift on an '86 A4LD -- the other shifts are all vacuum controlled. A CM code without an accompanying KOEO code suggests that the fault in the TPS circuit is intermittent, which makes diagnosing the problem that much more difficult. A CM code could also be an old code (last 40 drive cycles) for which the fault no longer exists. I might try clearing the CM codes (pull jumper wire during KOEO/CM code output), drive, and see if you get the same codes back or not. Did you try the KOER test? Not sure with those codes if there would be any different information, but it might be worth the effort.
The second time in this latest series of tests is what the TCC test is supposed to show. I can't say from here why the test is inconsistent.
The second time in this latest series of tests is what the TCC test is supposed to show. I can't say from here why the test is inconsistent.
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Have cleared Codes and will drive it this morning to see if re-logs the errors. Question--would the EGR (if bad) cause a vacuum problems that could impact shifting. Also, i noticed that the shifting bogging down happens when the engine warms up.
By the way Ford replaced my Throttle Positioning unit about 2-months ago when my emissions light came on -- the O2 sensor was replaced 2 months prior that, result of rough idle/running.
Will get back with the new code pull
By the way Ford replaced my Throttle Positioning unit about 2-months ago when my emissions light came on -- the O2 sensor was replaced 2 months prior that, result of rough idle/running.
Will get back with the new code pull
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Cleared Codes and now i get a CM 33 (EGR). Also, when the car bogs down it smokes big time!!!!!!
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Swapped out the EGR - still blowing smoke. Oil level good so is coolant. When I look into the throttle body I get a black liquid draining out as well as black liquid coming out ot the tail pipe....blown head gasket or is some sensor stuck open.....
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A CM 33 without and accompanying KOEO could be a lot of things. Are all the vacuum lines to the EGR valve in good shape? any plugged? EVR solenoid opening?
Not sure what the black liquid would be. does it have an odor? Feel "greasy"? Is it water-like, or oil-like, or gasoline-like?
Not sure what the black liquid would be. does it have an odor? Feel "greasy"? Is it water-like, or oil-like, or gasoline-like?
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The car sat the night and even cold it was crop dusting with white (light greyish) smoke. It is drivable but smokes and lacks power. The coolant is full and bright green, engine oil is full and black (ie no water).
When I took the air flow tube off the throttle body it was dripping with the same oily feeling/oil smelling liquid that is coming out of the exhaust pipe. The smoke flows as long as the car is running and more smoke flows when I apply gas.
It is at Ford now - will follow up with the findings.
Just curious how it was running great with the exception of the "won't shift" feel at 3rd and 4th.
When I took the air flow tube off the throttle body it was dripping with the same oily feeling/oil smelling liquid that is coming out of the exhaust pipe. The smoke flows as long as the car is running and more smoke flows when I apply gas.
It is at Ford now - will follow up with the findings.
Just curious how it was running great with the exception of the "won't shift" feel at 3rd and 4th.
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Well the game is up.
The white smoke was caused by lack of rings. After 225K miles, everything has been replaced but the engine. Therefore tranny problem solved - if there was a tranny problem.
Thanks
The white smoke was caused by lack of rings. After 225K miles, everything has been replaced but the engine. Therefore tranny problem solved - if there was a tranny problem.
Thanks
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