Is it true you have to drop the gas tank to mount a class III trailer hitch on a 1989 full size Bronco, if so why?

 

I had to on my '88. The actual truth is that I had a rust hole in my tank and realized that there was no way that I was gonna install the class III without dropping the tank so I installed the hitch while going after the tank.

My observation is that I would not have been able to get at the frame rails to bolt the hitch on without removing the tank.

Maybe there are other hitches that take the gas tank situation into account in their design but mine (reese) definitely expects you to drop the tank.

 

Thanks...How much of a pain is it to drop the tank on these old Bronco's ?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-May-02 AT 07:56 PM (EST)]Somewhat of a pain, especially if you have to siphon out 33 gallons of gas! Run it close to empty, if you're going to do it (shouldn't be too hard to do with a Bronco; drive it a couple of days!)

You'll need to remove the filler neck hose (no more difficult than pulling a radiator hose. You might want to have a new replacement on hand for the re-install). The tank skid plate also serves the purpose of holding the tank up. You'll need to remove the ten(?) or so bolts securing it, and it and the tank will drop down. It would be a good idea to have the tank supported. You may also consider changing the in-tank fuel pump while you have the tank out. Should you do this, use a quality replacement (NAPA or Ford), as cheaper ones are famous for dying w/in months. Also, make sure you've removed the fuel lines from the sending unit BEFORE dropping the tank. For re-installation, I used locally available grade 8 bolts, washers, and locknuts as replacement hardware (I had to cut several of the originals).

Now, if you aren't up for all of this fun, consider purchasing the Hidden Hitch Class III hitch from J.C. Whitney. I bought one a couple of years ago, and was mainly attracted to its anti-corrosion claims. The kit provides a specially designed set of "fishing" wires that allow you to fish the hitch bolts around the narrow space between the tank and the inside of the frame rail and through the holes without the need to remove the tank. I was skeptical at first, but it worked like a charm. And, the hitch has been through two winters thus far, with no hints of rust or corrosion. Hope this helps!

 

As far as the JC Whitney hitch, do you recall the cost and what was is max tow rating? Sounds like the way to go, I like the no rust idea as this is to pull a salt water boat and to drive the beaches of New England.

 

See link below for details on the JC hitch

http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=138084&BQ=jcw2

 

You don't have to drop the tank. I installed mine by drilling the holes, then I wrapped a thin piece of wire around the bolts and used it to guide the bolt to the hole (from up top). It then held the bolt in place for the nut. When the nut was snugged up, I pulled the wire off, and repeated the process. Your fingers should fit enough to hold the bolt head for the final torquing.