'96 Shift Lever going south
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Sacramento
'96 Shift Lever going south
My 96's column-mounted shift lever is becoming flexible, just where the larger, ridged area begins. It seems like it is cracked or something, perpendicular to the axis, along the line between smooth part and ridged part. Anyone know if that is removable/repairable? Should I just glue it tight and hope for the best? Or is it lever shopping time at junkorama?
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,839
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From: Oak Harbor, Washington
You won't find any good ones at the JY. I've looked: every one is gone, or cracked.
These things break disturbingly often. Anybody recall how much the part is?
Has anyone attempted to retrofit a floor shifter for the '92-on Aeros?
These things break disturbingly often. Anybody recall how much the part is?
Has anyone attempted to retrofit a floor shifter for the '92-on Aeros?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Had the same thing happen a while back. Replaced it with new one from the local Ford dealership. Parts man had to go to a small temp building they had in the boonies to get the piece, his last one. If I remember right something like $50+.
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Joined: Apr 2006
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hey! that's my pic! LOL
It took me about 40 mins the first try at the junk yard(removed all front bezels and lower dash)... finding out it was the wrong one and had to do it again. it didn't have the shift indicator tab. The second van I inspected the shifter shaft before attempting anything -GREAT ADVICE HERE. It took about 15mins this time and only dropped the lower dash and steering column... very simple.
I think the hardest part is the reinstall, trying to get the stupid shift lock setting right. other than that I think it's a cakewalk. Ohh and it was only 30bucks.
AUSSiE
It took me about 40 mins the first try at the junk yard(removed all front bezels and lower dash)... finding out it was the wrong one and had to do it again. it didn't have the shift indicator tab. The second van I inspected the shifter shaft before attempting anything -GREAT ADVICE HERE. It took about 15mins this time and only dropped the lower dash and steering column... very simple.
I think the hardest part is the reinstall, trying to get the stupid shift lock setting right. other than that I think it's a cakewalk. Ohh and it was only 30bucks.
AUSSiE
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 252
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
Yeah, Aussie, I stole your pic, since you were kind enough to post it and I don't have a better one handy. I've seen enough of them, I just don't have a pic of any of them.
If you have a set of Torx bits and a suitable wrench or ratchet to drive them, it's not as bad as it seems. From memory, the lower bolster has to come off, disconnect the PRNDL cable, then four nuts & bolts to drop the column (long extensions help here). Remove the column surround plastic (around the MF Switch and shifter), and you've got access to the Torx screws retaining the shift tube's saddle clamps. It is definitely in the DIY class of repair, if you are reasonably careful and don't push down on the column too hard.
Good shop practice would be to disconnect the battery 30 minutes before doing this job, due to the ABS system. HTH.
If you have a set of Torx bits and a suitable wrench or ratchet to drive them, it's not as bad as it seems. From memory, the lower bolster has to come off, disconnect the PRNDL cable, then four nuts & bolts to drop the column (long extensions help here). Remove the column surround plastic (around the MF Switch and shifter), and you've got access to the Torx screws retaining the shift tube's saddle clamps. It is definitely in the DIY class of repair, if you are reasonably careful and don't push down on the column too hard.
Good shop practice would be to disconnect the battery 30 minutes before doing this job, due to the ABS system. HTH.
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