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If you put them in the box you will need trays to put them in and run new wiring. I know they make a frame mounted battery tray also, don't know who but i have seen them. It wouldn't be a huge project. I would check out jegs or summit, they have alot of battery trays and stuff for racing. Any reason you want to move them?
if you have optima batteries they are sealed units and could literally be mounted upside-down over your head and be fine.... now, I wouldn't want them to leak, but I had mine for 8yrs+ with zero problems - otherwise, i'd have to second the suggestion of summit racing as a good source
Yea, the Optima's in my boat are mounted sideways.
"Any reason you want to move them?"
We've got a project truck we're going to do twin TN's on, not compounds, twins.
On the left side with the air/battery box gone, there's plenty of room, I figure with the right-side battery and heat/a/c removal I'll have plenty of room over there, too.
optimas are a sealed battery and i have had them mounted on their side with no problems but you still need some sort of hold down to keep them from moving and i would put them in some sort of case so the terminals aren't exposed and come in contact with some metal and short. Summit and Jegs have a bunch of mounting options for this purpose.
"Any reason you want to move them?"
We've got a project truck we're going to do twin TN's on, not compounds, twins.
On the left side with the air/battery box gone, there's plenty of room, I figure with the right-side battery and heat/a/c removal I'll have plenty of room over there, too.
I have always dreamt of the idea of having two smaller chargers in that area, feeding one LARGE charger sitting in the valley. That would be sweet. What would you call it? What kind of TN's are you using?
I know the 6oh e-450 van i seen at work has the batteries mounted in a box on the frame rail. Maybe you can somehow modiefy that box to work on the superduty frame. I thought about moving them until i asked myself why am i moving them?
Well, according to Ohm's law (V=IR), the voltage drop from the rear of the truck to the starter will be larger than I care to calculate when you try to start in the winter. Unless you're like me, a retired fulltime RVer who NEVER spends any time in the cold, you'd better run much wire weighing more pounds than both batteries do from wherever you relocate them in the rear to the starter relay.
BTW, I used to race an A/H Sprite (summertime only), and I replaced my engine compartment battery with a motor cycle version, and put it in the trunk for weight control and better distribution for handling. Well, I was a EE at the time and I should have run the numbers first, because the extra weight of the wire was more than I saved by moving the battery and down sizing it. But I was stubborn, and having made the mod, I raced it. Spun out, couldn't restart, lost some points I could've won, and went back to OEM config. Believe me, many times OEM actually knows what their doing!
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