Ball joints?
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From: Bradenton FL
Ball joints?
Does anyone know of a good thread describing the replacement of ball joints. The alignment guy wants too much money in my opinion, can anyone help? And possibly a trusted site to buy them from. Thanks
2002 PSD 4x4 Crew Short 6in lift on 35s
2002 PSD 4x4 Crew Short 6in lift on 35s
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From: Mesa, AZ
When I replaced my balljoints for my lift kit, I needed them right then, so I just went to Checker to get them...lifetime warranty...cant beat that.
I used this site: Ball%20Joint%20Installation
I had such a problem getting the lower one off, had to use a huge sledge hammer, it was irritating, luckily I didn't need that knuckle anymore lol, thanks to my good ole X-over steering.
I used this site: Ball%20Joint%20Installation
I had such a problem getting the lower one off, had to use a huge sledge hammer, it was irritating, luckily I didn't need that knuckle anymore lol, thanks to my good ole X-over steering.
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From: Mesa, AZ
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
Could (one) bad balljoint cause a vibration at 70-75mph, but go away at 70, and again at 76?
The four things I think my vibration is from:
1) Driveshaft
2) Driverside ball joints
3) Driverside hub
4) Wheel Alignment
I got the new hub (it went out about 4 months ago). Got my front and rear driveshafts lengthened and balanced. Next I am getting a front end alignment. And if that doesn't cure it, it must be the ball joints. Since there is less vibration now, with my lift, It may have had something to do with a combination of my passenger and driverside ball joints....because my passenger side ball joints were replaced during the lift. Two more things left to try...
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From: Bradenton FL
Ive been told that if it vibrates around 40-45 then again at 70-75 the most common thing is actually your wheels/tires. If your running bigger than stock wheels or deep dish with the wieghts on the inside of the rim they like to come off and a variable vibration at those speeds is most of the time just your wheels and tires. Its worth a trip to the tire store or look inside your rims on if the weights are sticky-on kind that are on the inside, if they are still there
My ball joints arent to the vibration stage yet but the alignment tech said he needs them to be tighter to do an alignment that he cant use the stock tolerances. So im not sure what ball joint vib feels like yet, but i do know what unbalanced tire vib is had it happen to me.
My ball joints arent to the vibration stage yet but the alignment tech said he needs them to be tighter to do an alignment that he cant use the stock tolerances. So im not sure what ball joint vib feels like yet, but i do know what unbalanced tire vib is had it happen to me.
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I do have more negative camber on the left side than the left, so i think i will just do MOOGs and then see if that fixes it.
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From: Mesa, AZ
I am so happy for MOOG parts, they are the same quality, but a heck of a lot cheaper than factory. I ordered a Moog tie rod end (side that connects to the pitman arm) before my lift, and it was so much cheaper than factory.
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i just put moog ball joints in mine on the weekend, with the press i rented everything came out and went back in real easy, spent a bunch of money on seals not knowing which ones might be worn out but i was able to get about 2/3's of what i spent back. I had a quote done on them before i did it and by doing it myself i saved about $700 so i'm pretty happy i took the time to do it. Once you get going its really not all that long of a process, my drivers side was a lot harder to get apart than the passenger side though so it took a little extra time, make sure you have good snap ring pliers aswell, i had to go pick up another pair cause the ones i have were to small and just overall crappy
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Originally Posted by rollerstud98
i just put moog ball joints in mine on the weekend, with the press i rented everything came out and went back in real easy, spent a bunch of money on seals not knowing which ones might be worn out but i was able to get about 2/3's of what i spent back. I had a quote done on them before i did it and by doing it myself i saved about $700 so i'm pretty happy i took the time to do it. Once you get going its really not all that long of a process, my drivers side was a lot harder to get apart than the passenger side though so it took a little extra time, make sure you have good snap ring pliers aswell, i had to go pick up another pair cause the ones i have were to small and just overall crappy
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From: Bradenton FL
Thanks Kris for the link, the only other thing i will need is the tie rod end that connects to the pitman arm. I will check that site, know of any others? The alignment guy only says i need to do the passenger side but might as well do both
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Originally Posted by Benny2002
Thanks Kris for the link, the only other thing i will need is the tie rod end that connects to the pitman arm. I will check that site, know of any others? The alignment guy only says i need to do the passenger side but might as well do both