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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 12:27 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by KrenzyRyan
I did the same thing...rented everything. What did you use to seperate the lower ball joint? The ball joint remover I rented wasn't big enough. Did you end up using a pitman arm puller?
the one i had was large enough that i could just barely thread it on for doing the lowers
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 01:20 AM
  #17  
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Some places list it as an inner tie rod end, drag link, centerlink sector shaft, and more.
I know the Napa part number as I replaced mine last month. Its part
# 2693081. Others list it as ES3427.

Austin
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 12:33 PM
  #18  
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anyone have anything against the napa premium ball joints? they also have the grees fittings. better worse then factory? thanks.

also, i think my ball joints are bad both upper and lower, and i dont feel any vibrations at any speed. just clunking when comming to a stop.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 01:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 2002f2507.3LPS
anyone have anything against the napa premium ball joints? they also have the grees fittings. better worse then factory?
I like napa parts, especially because most of them come with a lifetime warranty (like my hub). I would check if they do or not.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 01:49 PM
  #20  
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ill check on that life time warrenty thing. with the grees fittings iv read some storries of having to do some modifying to them of they will hit stuff? true?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 06:39 PM
  #21  
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I put the NAPA joints on my truck. They seem to do good, yes it is nice to have grease fittings on them. I have a regular (straight) grease fitting in the upper joint and hopefully when I try to grease I can get a 90* fitting it there. It seemed to rub on the axle universal joint so I dont leave it in there. I will also have to check on that lifetime warranty.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 06:53 PM
  #22  
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yeah i took my grease nipple out and put a plug in after i had greased mine, even with the 90 degree fitting
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 06:57 PM
  #23  
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now even after i did my ball joints i'm getting a clunk in my front end while going over bumps, any ideas on what else it might be? everything else looked ok on visiual inspection
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 07:10 PM
  #24  
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Check the sway bar drop links. Grab one end and see if you can move the link around and check the bushing inside.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 11:05 PM
  #25  
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thanks, i'll look into them hopefully this weekend, busy weekend for me though, prepping my other truck to sell, tearing my dads freshly wrecked quad apart to commence rebuild and try and diagnose my super duties clunk, should be fun
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 01:29 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by KrenzyRyan
I did the same thing...rented everything. What did you use to seperate the lower ball joint? The ball joint remover I rented wasn't big enough. Did you end up using a pitman arm puller?
I beat it with a pickle fork that I made bigger to get the knuckle off, then hit ball joints with a piece of pipe and large hammer to pop them out of knuckle. Worked great for me.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #27  
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The alignment guy said the "drag link" we will call it, im not sure what it is either, said the seal was like yours is worn out and the rubber gasket looks dried and ate up, i looked at it myself. Im not sure if it or the ball joints really need changing, nothing up front clunks or does anything wierd. He says i need them to do an "ACCURATE" alignment and wont touch it without the parts replaced. I only have a couple guys in town the will do an alignment on a lifted truck, setting it to what they think is best not just factory specs. Ive only been to one guy so he might just want a bunch more money out of me, im not going to do anything until i see a signifigant tire wear problem or clunking up front.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 09:45 PM
  #28  
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would bad ball joints make your truck pull to the right even after an a front end alignment that should make it pull slightly to the left?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 10:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rollerstud98
thanks, i'll look into them hopefully this weekend, busy weekend for me though, prepping my other truck to sell, tearing my dads freshly wrecked quad apart to commence rebuild and try and diagnose my super duties clunk, should be fun
Pull the front bar completely off and see if it is still there. Mine was pretty bad, but I couldn't move it if I tried. All the bushings on mine were pretty much shot, the ones that hold the bar at the axle where the worse. I suspect that is the problem with yours.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 10:22 PM
  #30  
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since i have a had a clunk going over bumps and like storkin said, i can move my sway bar links around a lot and the bushing look shot beyond belief. would it be better to just replace the bushings than buy a new hellwig sway bar? (been contiplating this for a while) also when i turn with my 37"s i hear a clunk. could this be due to my swaybar links or the drag/tie rod?

if i need to replace the drag link or tie rod, is it usualy just the ball joint or whatever is at the end that connects to the pitman arm and is it the same at the other end? i was quoted $300 for a new drag link.
 
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