I am aware of potential cracking, thus I have been keeping an eye on them. I visually inspected them last week and couldnt find any cracks, but I suppose to do it right a guy should dye pen to check.

I am leaning toward slotted rotors, but I still dont think the brakes are big enough!

? arent the newer superduties using bigger rotors?

 

I've got a few things here. I don't know if anyone makes larger rotors for our trucks, but I do know of a caliper upgrade. They are 8 piston calipers, but expensive:
https://www.shop.blackwidowdiesel.co...&categoryId=11

I would highly advise against putting DOT 5 in their street truck for several reasons.

You see, DOT 5 fluid is not good for a street application for several reasons. It is a silicon based fluid, and does not absorb any moisture. That may sound great, but any water stays completely seperated in the brake system and since water is heavier than the silicon fluid, it will sink to the lowest point in your system - the calipers. Now say you have some water in the system and it's collected in your calipers. You do some hard braking, and now all of a sudden that water begins to quickly boil once it reaches the 212 degree mark. This boiling creates a vapor pocket, most likely in your caliper. The vaopr will compress and vapor lock the system, resulting in your brakes not working.

Silicon based fluid is also highly compressible, which can create a spongy feel in the pedal. Also, as the tempature of the fluid increases, the compressibility of the fluid also increases, making the spongy pedal worse. This trait is undesirable for some people.

Another problem with silicon based fluid in an older system is it can latch onto the sludge generated by gradual component deterioration and create a gelatin like goop which will attract more crud and eventually plug up metering orifices or cause pistons to stick.

Finally, DOT 5 fluid is not reccomended for any vehicle with ABS brakes. If you want to use a fluid with a higher boiling point than DOT 4, some new fluids are being developed that are not silicon based. They have a minimum dry boiling point of 500 degrees. They are known as Super DOT 4 or sometimes DOT 5.1. I also know of this fluid, which has a dry boiling point of 610 degrees, and is DOT 3 & 4 compatable: http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/bkfluid.htm

If you've already put DOT 5 in your system though, don't compound your initial mistake and change back. Silicone is very tenacious stuff and you will never get it all out of your system. Your best defense is to just do a full flush more often.

Sorry for the rant. I just want to be sure my fellow Strokers are safe.

For a street truck, yes. You get all the cooling effects, without comprimising the strength or integrity of the rotor.

 

In my opinion and alot of others yes, in our application of a large and heavy truck towing big loads.

 

Decided to shoot Applied rotor tech an email about a quote for my 'duty, the fronts would be $398 plus shipping or both fronts and rears regularly for $788. ART provides a 10% discount ($700) to customer purchasing both front and rear rotor kits. A bit price plus shipping to Alaska would kill me.

 

Did you call them? Is that shipping to Alaska? BTW I'm stationed at Cape Canaveral Air Force Station, but I'm Navy. WHat do you do?

 

Emailed them. Afraid to ask what shipping would cost. I know I was trying to get a grill for my truck, cost 47.00 and the shipping was 147.00. I'm a Vehicle Mechanic. Work on everything from cars to M-series vehicles and now moved over to Deicers.

 

powerstrokin007,
i live on elmo.
i send you a PM

 

If you truly want to increase your braking, then SSBC 8 piston calipers are the way to go-the fit under stock wheels, and bolt on without modifications.

I have seen them engage ABS at 60 MPH and this truck rolls on 37's. Those 19.5's are heavy and need more clamping force to slow/stop.

 

Not SuperDuty specific, but does apply:

You will not find cross drilled iron rotors on ANY race cars that do heavy braking. The best heat sink is mass, and thats what cross-drilling removes.

slotted rotors are not slotted for cooling, they are slotted to "grate" the pad so you don't have a layer of crystalized pad, thus keeping from pad fade. Downside is pad will wear faster. I use a slotted rotor on the car, just because thats what I had on hand when my cfryo'd rotors started cracking (next para.).

Cryo'd rotors (mine were from Porterfield) do work well, but a fellow tracker managed to blow his apart (leaving him without brakes at 100 MPH entering a turn). Mine were shopwing stress cracks as well. Just check them every now and then and they are fine. I'm sure your not as hard on them as we were.

DOT 5 silicone fluid is bad for ABS systems. Read the label. There are DOT 4 compliant fluids that have higher dry and wet boiling points than DOT 5 standards (I use motul RBF600 in the race car, 590+ degree boiling temp), thus being a better choice. DOT 5.1 non-silcone fluid is also a choice, but again unadvisable.

SS braided lines are a must. rubber lines just don't provide the consistancy you need in heavy usage.

Pads are your first and main defence against fade. A good pad has a large dynamic operating temp range, but will dust and not last forever....which is the whole point. If it's not wearing (and dusting), then it's not working. Get GOOD pads.....check the temp range and the Mu (friction coefficient at certain temps), if your pad maker doesn't supply these numbers, then they probly arn't good pads.