things not to do when porting e7s

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Mar 17, 2007 | 07:53 AM

robertbourque

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things not to do when porting e7s

this is my first time porting what are some things no to do to make sure i dont mess any thing up.im thinking of just porting the ex side .

Mar 17, 2007 | 08:06 AM

baddad457

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From: south louisiana

Just me, but I leave the port floor and shortside radius alone , other than polishing the exhaust side. Most of the flow on a small block head will be up top anyway and it's not hard to screwup the flow on the shortside of the turn from the bowl to the port. You can completely remove the Thermactor bump till it's flush, you'll just be left with a hole there. I also contour the valve guide that protrudes into the bowl.

Mar 17, 2007 | 02:45 PM

robertbourque

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so if i get e7s at the junk yard would they need a valve job .or would it be safe to change seals clean them up and use them as is also how much hp can u get out of stock e7 heads oh and e7te heads will work on an edlebrock peformer 289 intake with a carb right

Mar 17, 2007 | 04:06 PM

baddad457

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From: south louisiana

Yea, they'd likely need a valve job. Use a pair of valves that are spares to keep from messing up the seats while working on them too. As for a Performer 289 intake, I'd upgrade to something better if porting the heads, no sense putting a cork on the heads after doing the port work.

Mar 17, 2007 | 09:41 PM

Conanski

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From: Ottawa, Ontario

A basic porting job can be done is a few hours with a dremmel and a round tip carbide bit. This bit will chew through the cast iron pretty easy, so use caution.
Remove any flashing around the intake ports at the intake mating surface, but otherwise leave the whole intake tract alone.
Remove the air injection hump on the exhaust roof.
Pocket port the exhaust bowl area.. basically smooth the walls behind the valve and blend it into the roof. Be carefill not to nick the valve seats.
Smooth the whole exhaust port roof. You can also smooth and shape the valve guide neck where it protrudes into the port. To check the guides for wear, slide a valve into position with no spring attached and about 1/8" off the valve seat. Grasp the valve by the head and try to move it side to side, if there is any movement beyond an almost indescernalble amount then really the guides should be replaced.

Mar 18, 2007 | 05:49 AM

HemiEater

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It will take a lot more then a few hours trust me...

like what was mentioned leave the floor and the short turn alone..you can smooth out the turn just don't try and reshape it.

check out my porting pics...Click here...the e7's I have been running in my truck have 1.94 1.60 valves in them and I did not use hardened seat either... I have been running it for 3 years now and they are still a ok.........at the time I did them I was short on money and didn't want to use the hardend seats but I did use good SS valves....and had the machine shop use a tool that cuts the bowl and the seats at the same time, this cut down on the hand grinding big time....all I had to do was blend in the bowls by hand.