In order to pull the load I want to pull, up the hills I want to pull it up, at the speeds I want to be able to drive, I have to invest in something to lower my EGT's.

My choices are an intercooler or a boost cooler. I know a lot of people are running intercoolers and they are a pretty well known item. The boost cooler injects a water/methanol mixture into the intake stream to perform the same function.

You can read about them here:

snowperformance.net

I talked to Tymar performance about the boost cooler. He had not run one himself, but said that it would cool as well as the intercooler. The main drawback as far as he was concerned was that you would have to refill your boost cooler liquid whereas with the intercooler, well you know.

I also talked to the people at snow performance (who sell a boost cooler) and they swore up and down that the boost cooler would be as good or better than an intercooler and would actually create an increase in performance as well.

Not to mention that the boost cooler is 1/3 the price and is a very simple install.

Do any of you run one of these? What is your experience?

Thanks,
whiskeyR

 

A buddy of mine tried one. This is what he found; if you let the EGT's get high and then shoot the water, it does not bring down the temps. If you start shooting the water before the temps go up, it will help keep them down alot longer, but they will still go up if you keep putting the coal to it. The biggest drawback that he found was with the amount of water needed for a moderately long trip, without having to stop and refill the water tank often. Again, I do not know what brand he had and I never drove his truck with this on it, so I am just going by what he said.

 

The setup I am looking at injects water or methane or a mixture of this stuff based on the boost and EGT's. It will also adjust the amount it is injecting as these levels rise/fall. It comes with a computer module that controls this stuff.


There is an 8 gallon tank that is available with it. I am going to call them today and see if the tank can be mounted any where other than the bed of the truck, becuase I do not want it back there.


Thanks for the info,
Wrichard

 

you can install an IC for alot less than a boost cooler if you DIY with a superduty 7.3 or 6.0 cooler. I am in process if my headlights ever come in of installing a 7.3 cooler and I am in it for $230 total! I got a cooler and pipes for $180 shipped, banks turbo connection and y-pipe used for $50 and a extra set of tubes from a 6.0 from a friend for free(they will be used for the extra bends I will need to mod the 7.3 pipes)

you can then later add the boost cooler if needed for even more cooling but I doubt you will need it. there is no need to pay $1500 for and IC it can be done much cheaper.

 

we use water injection when sled pulling with our tractor. Though a DIY water injection kit is simple and cheap, there are a lot more variables and risk. The nozzle could plug with dirt, a solenoid could stay on or come on when it shouldn't etc. Plus as stated above, keeping egt's low for an extended period of time will require a lot of water. Sounds like an IC is a better option. When I go to bigger injectors I will need one, but until then my setup works great.

 

I think of water/meth as a quick way to add power and lower egts. But an intercooler is a longterm one time investment that lowers egts.

I have looked on ebay and 6.0 intercooler prices have gone up 3X as much as they were 1-2 months ago. I am half tempted to go to a junk yard and get pipes and an intercooler off a 7.3 superduty to keep the costs down.

I am also wondering if I can pull the 3" intakes off the 00+ trucks and use the newer y pipe. Has anyone tried this? Beans site sells them and it says you need to weld up a couple bolt holes or something. The early 99 ypipes are getting expensive on ebay because everyone wants one. Also can you use a 00+ ypipe and have some kind of reducer boot to adapt to the smaller intakes?

 

the problem with the 3 inch intake y-pipe is that the turbo connection is also different. so the late 99 and up y-pipes won't work unless you swapped the entire turbo, intake and up-pipe and one manifold depending on what year truck its going on.

if you can weld its pretty easy to modify the stock steel y-pipe to work with an IC if you can't come up with a cost effective alternative. just cut the flange off and weld a piece of pipe on there for the tube out to the IC then modify the rest of the y-pipe to take another peice of pipe to except the incoming IC tube boot. There are a few pics floating around of one that looks great.

 

[QUOTE=tjbeggs]banks turbo connection and y-pipe used for $50 QUOTE]

Tim, you make me sick everytime I hear you say that! I'm still jealous.

 

I am sorry to cause such jealousy! But I really didn't even need to think about that deal when it was presented!! Cliff-1972 at TDS gave me that hook up! It made up for the IC and tubes that I over paid for! I could of done better than $180 shipped on that!

 

im fixing to change my 1995 psd toa 2000 y pipe and turbo im wondering if injectors will work alright and if i need quick turbo housing and what kind of programing i have bank stinger plus installed now thanks

 

the later turbo isn't really an upgrade. in addition to the y-ipe and turbo you need one of the manifolds, up-pipe, up-pipe collector, and 3 inch intakes.

if you already know all that sorry just want to make sure.

for the injectors and what not I think you will be ok as I believe the superduty turbo has a .84 exhuast housing. not postive about that but I think it does.

 

i have everthing but the three inch intakes they are pricey i have already installed the intercooler that was time consuming but turned out good thanks for the info

 

Hopefully we'll see some pics, aye!

Cowboy Steve