Hpx
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 775
Likes: 0
From: Williamston, MI
Thanks Pop. I haven't had to add oil or do a change since I got the truck. It's been one of those "next time in town" tasks. The dealership gave me two free oil changes because they screwed me on the GPR. I guess better to spend $21 on a GPR than $$$ on oil changes?
Any procedure to remove the air added from within the hpx line? Will it just exit at startup?
Any procedure to remove the air added from within the hpx line? Will it just exit at startup?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 1
From: Montana
mine install was lickity split. the faster you are the less oil flowes out. No leaks yet, and I actually used a socket for the first step of removing the plugs. then the 5/8's open wrench.
dont really hear much diff. while the go peddle is down, but at idle seems smoother like everybody claims. and also you dont have to remove a thing (minus the plugs)
dont really hear much diff. while the go peddle is down, but at idle seems smoother like everybody claims. and also you dont have to remove a thing (minus the plugs)
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 5
From: Gig Em, Tx
Installed my homemade SS HPX today. I noticed a real rough running engine when I started it like a missing cylinder. Went to fill up w diesel and ran like crap. Finally straightened out and now runs ok. Can't really tell any difference from before install. Did any of you guys notice that it took some running to get the bugs (air I guess) out?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by sgrol
Installed my homemade SS HPX today. I noticed a real rough running engine when I started it like a missing cylinder. Went to fill up w diesel and ran like crap. Finally straightened out and now runs ok. Can't really tell any difference from before install. Did any of you guys notice that it took some running to get the bugs (air I guess) out?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 5
From: Gig Em, Tx
Originally Posted by Bin Strokin
Did you make the hpx line your self? if so could you let me in on the procedure?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by sgrol
I did. I had a length of 1/4" SS line thatI bent in the same general shape as the commercial HPXand I ordered the fittings.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 5
From: Gig Em, Tx
I knew you were going to ask that. I bought them a couple of months ago, wife lost them, I recently found them. I will have to do some checking to get you the correct size, source and price. I will try to run the info down tomorrow. I wonder if she lost them on purpose?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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I believe the correct fittings to utilize a 1/4" steel OD. or SS tubing flared on each end and bent to accomodate 37 deg. flared ends is... (2) fittings Parker #4-5 F50X and the tubing accessories are (2) triple lock fitting body's, consisting of sleeves and nuts. nut is part # Parker #4 BTX and sleeve is Parker #4 TX. Custom bending and flaring of the tubing is obviously needed.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 5
From: Gig Em, Tx
I can't seem to find where I ordered the fittings but they were 1/2" ORB (oring boss) for the end that goes into the head and 1/4" compression for the end that connects to the tubing. Post above calls for flared ends but I used compression fittings. Not sure which would be better but I suppose either would work.
Not a liberal...
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,635
Likes: 4
From: Cut & Shoot, Texas
This is for the hose from DieselSite.
HX HOSE INSTALLATION - 1994-2003 FORD 7.3L PSD
- DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE - REPLACE AFTER ONE YEAR
Locate and remove the plugs from the THIRD port back on each oil rail.
Install the O-ring fittings (disassemble from hose before installing) and
tighten them snugly into the ports. Tighten until they bottom out - there
are no torque settings for this job. When it stops, it is tight. DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN! Route the hose between the turbo and the intake crossover
manifold, while making sure it does not touch the turbo. Reattach the hose
to the o-ring fittings. Tighten the fittings using two wrenches. Place one
wrench on the hose end fitting and one on the o-ring fitting as you tighten
the hose end. This fitting MUST BE TIGHT - not just snug! If they leak
after startup - tighten them down some more. There are no torque settings.
HX HOSE INSTALLATION - 1994-2003 FORD 7.3L PSD
- DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE - REPLACE AFTER ONE YEAR
Locate and remove the plugs from the THIRD port back on each oil rail.
Install the O-ring fittings (disassemble from hose before installing) and
tighten them snugly into the ports. Tighten until they bottom out - there
are no torque settings for this job. When it stops, it is tight. DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN! Route the hose between the turbo and the intake crossover
manifold, while making sure it does not touch the turbo. Reattach the hose
to the o-ring fittings. Tighten the fittings using two wrenches. Place one
wrench on the hose end fitting and one on the o-ring fitting as you tighten
the hose end. This fitting MUST BE TIGHT - not just snug! If they leak
after startup - tighten them down some more. There are no torque settings.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,916
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
Originally Posted by sgrol
Installed my homemade SS HPX today. I noticed a real rough running engine when I started it like a missing cylinder. Went to fill up w diesel and ran like crap. Finally straightened out and now runs ok. Can't really tell any difference from before install. Did any of you guys notice that it took some running to get the bugs (air I guess) out?