I've posted a couple of times about my 7.3L PSD stalling and leaving me on the side of the road. She's stock

Have changed the batteries, generator, CPS, filters (fuel&air) and fuel pump.

Have had two days where temps got into the 40's - 50's and she ran fine both days. Today the temps dropped like a rock below zero and she's been acting up worse than ever.

I work second shift so first thing tomorrow I'll drive it to a garage and pull the codes (if any)

Until then, anybody got any ideas?

Thanks

 

Need more info/description on what's happening when it "acts up." Is it a starting problem? What are the symptoms, noises, smoke, etc. etc...

Also, by changing the generator, are you referring to the alternator?

 

do you have chip (tuner )or anything like that?you have to post more info for us to help you.. any mods to the truck?
you fuel my be crap- gellling

 

Being cold-weather related, could GP's or GPR be part of the problem?

 

not whe its just droping dead, he would have starting problem not problem when just dies,
i think it moght be fuel related , like fuel pump , or cloged pickup in a tank

 

I've got an E-350 PSD, stock no chips or mods. I install floors and its my only work truck. Had it into the dealers but they couldn't pull any codes. Last Saturday the SES light came on so I figured on bringing it to a garage (NOT the dealer) and see if there are any codes to pull now.

The problem is, it will drive fine for several miles but as soon as the engine reaches operating temp, it will start missing, then it starts losing power. If I feather the gas I can get a another quarter mile out of it but if I push the engine it will just stall. When I pull over, it will idle rough a few seconds and then even out to a normal idle. As for smoke or noises, there aren't any usual noises (except for the engine not running right LOL) and I've noticed a small amout of blueish smoke when it starts running rough (I'm assuming its just the fuel not burning thoroughly.

About five weeks ago it got really cold, since then we have had two days where temps got into the mid 40's -50's. On both of those days it ran fine, didn't give me a single problem. As soon as the temps dropped again the problem came back. Also, this whole problem started when the temps dropped five weeks ago. Before then temps were really mild (in New England) and rarely went below 40 all winter.

Yes generator = alternator. I called a generator an alternator once in front of a diesel truck owner and got corrected, so when in Rome do as Romans do.

No chips, mods, and I've checked for gelling. I was changing the fuel filter and pump in 20 degree weather and there was no problems with fuel gelling. I've always gotten fuel at the same place and never had a problem with it. Have also checked fuses under the dash and under the hood. Everythings OK. Have not checked for UVC and if I can at all avoid it I will since its almost impossible to gain access to the valve covers on an Econoline.

Pete, when you say GPR do mean glow plug relay?

Anyhow, I'll post again tomorrow if I can get it to a garage and pull any codes, until then I'll look into any suggestions you guys can offer.

Thanks a bunch for the replies, hope I've given you enough info to help.

 

sounds to me like it gelled up on you a little and there is wax build up some place in your line..some one here had theres wax up in the screen some place in the fuel rail..wish i could tell you where it was..im sure some one here could tell you that..you can try some diesel 911 but it wont clean it out all the way..you need to get it out or it will colect and make a bigger problem..

 

it still sounds like fuel system problem, if you can have the garage check you fuel pressure, it might not be up to par, if you stop and it clears up sounds like its building pressure up in fuel system
and Ron you talking about those screens where the fuel line goes in to the head? i think those are orfices(front driver head and rear passenger head), i might be wrong,
what oil did you use in you engine? check the levels and let us know,
good luck

 

Yes, Merc, but like the other Pete said, since it isn't a starting problem, it doesn't make sense that the GPR would be involved... a good point that he caught and I missed from your initial post. Hope you can get it resolved quickly.

 

Thanks guys,


Here are the codes that the garage pulled

P1280 - ICP Circuit Out of Range - Low

p0472 - Exhaust Back Pressure Circuit - High Input

p0198 - Engine Oil Temp sensor Circuit - High Input

p0113 - IAT Sensor Circuit High Input

p0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction

p1248 - Turbo Boost Pressure Not Detected

p0640 - Manifold Intake Air Heater...(Go to Pinpoint test)

These are all the codes they pulled. These were real decent guys, they didn't charge me a penny to pull the codes and then spent a good 15-20 minutes explaining what they thought the problem was. Trouble is they're going on vacation for the next week and I guess neither of them wants to moonlight otherwise I'd have them do it.

They said the easiest fix was the exhaust back pressure sensor, if that didn't do it then check the ICP. So I'll start there and see where that takes me.

 

you sure its not your IDM , maybe water got inside?bad connection on IDM or PCM,,,
i would check that, i think all of those are controlled by it (or PCM), so it might give you all of the codes, so just dont start replacing parts without making sure , you can pull it out and check it, you just dont get all of those sensors going bad at the same time,,,
maybe other guys will give you better explanation,

 

I had the same symptoms and it all turned out to be a slowly dieing fuel pump. it finally died and I replaced it now no problems and no new codes its been about 3 weeks.

 

I know the 0640 is bogus because I accidentally started up the truck and drove it while the sensor was disconnected (just forgot it) so thats not a problem.

the 0198 is probably just from a cold start, so I'm not to worried about that one either.

And the 1248 is probably a result of the back pressure sensor causing the engine to run badly.

At least thats how I see it.

So your probably right, not all those sensors would likely go bad at once but the back pressure sensor and the ICP are probably the least expensive way to go right now and I have to get it back on the road this weekend, so given my choices I'll fork over a few bucks and pick up the sensors.

MAKO - That was one of my first thoughts, the fuel pump. It was giving me trouble and I replaced it two weeks ago. Unfortunately it didn't solve the problem.

Pete - I ws thinking it might be the fuel pressure too before I pulled the codes and it may still be a factor. Are you talking about fuel pressure at the pump or the rails?

 

im talking pressure at the fuel rails, but if you replaced pump, highly possible that your fuel pressure is fine at the pump,and after you put the sensors in , and lets hope they will fix it up, and you be home free,
if they not i woul have fuel pressure check at the rails,

for now good luck with the sensors

 

Yeah Pete ... lets hope LOL

Anyhow, picked up the sensors today and had to bend over for the dealership today.
I'll get them replaced Friday and Saturday.

Just one question. Can anydody help me find the ICP? I have the manual on DVD from e-bay but can't seem to figure out where the ICP is. I have an idea its located somewhere around the fuel rails but can't seem to figure out where. If you know where I can find it in the manual ...that would be even better. I've looked through the repair manual section and the PC/ED, heck I even went through the wiring diagrams and can't seem to figure out where it is.

Hope this gets it done.