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Ive been reading alot about the ccv mod on here and still have no clue what it is. I assume it has something to do with the crank case ventilation. What is involved and what are the benefits of it?
Please dont tell me to search,as I already did. No matter what I search for it comes back with no results. I have been reading threads for the past hour and a half or so and still have no clue what this mod is. Thanks
Those vapors have a lot of oily residue that gets into the charge air cooler. If your truck has any appreciable mileage, you can probably see the telltale signs of it at the CAC tube hoses.
So, when you do the mod, do you drip any oil out of it? I am up for the mod, but if it is going to drip any oil, I would rather not. So far I still do not have a single leak, and my garage really appreciates that!
So, when you do the mod, do you drip any oil out of it? I am up for the mod, but if it is going to drip any oil, I would rather not. So far I still do not have a single leak, and my garage really appreciates that!
Even if you get some out of the tube it will be a drop or two and we are not talking about everyday. You could also run the end of the hose into the top of a quart bottle that you can attach to the frame and just empty that every 6 months to a year.
So, when you do the mod, do you drip any oil out of it? I am up for the mod, but if it is going to drip any oil, I would rather not. So far I still do not have a single leak, and my garage really appreciates that!
When you connect the hose as in the picture Alan posted, you can run it up over the brake booster so any liquid oil getting through will be more likely to drip back down the hose into the valve cover. It looks like his is just run straight down, though. Also, the breather element has one of those brillo-looking filters in it to keep any oil blow-by to a minimum, but there will be some.
In actuality, you probably have a greater chance of oil leaking or other problems by leaving it connected! My '02 had only 60k on it when I got it and the orange CAC tubes under the Y-pipe were already leaking. That leads to oil running down the back of the engine, which eventually will drip. Look at the boots between the air tubes & intercooler (especially on the driver's side) -- if it's like mine, it's oil soaked and very dirty. It can eventually pop off.
I'll be cleaning the entire intake path & intercooler and replacing the boots shortly. The mod is definitely worth it IMHO.
Joe
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2002 7.3L F250 XLT CrewCab ShortBed 2WD
Futuresweets, below is a link to a good explanation and set of well illustrated instructions for the entire mod, including a "trap" in which to collect any liquid condensation/carryover.
I route mine to the exhaust. The pipe I welded into the exhaust enters at the "hump" above the axel. See the post below especially post #22 for the angle to put the pipe in. I did it and life is good.
Futuresweets, below is a link to a good explanation and set of well illustrated instructions for the entire mod, including a "trap" in which to collect any liquid condensation/carryover.
Has anyone measured the loss of HP associated with various CCV mods? I read the guzzle link, and his set up resulted in a positive pressure of 7.5 WC at 1200 RPM idle. I think this would be much higher while towing up a mountain grade at near full power. I know from my race car days of 40 years ago that scavenging the crankcase to produce negative pressure to aid venting increased HP, so I'm guessing that pressuring it with a CCV mod decreases HP, but I'm wondering by how much? With my early 99 and 14K lb 5er, I just barely make it up some mountains as is, and I'm assuming that the OEM CCV is applying considerable negative pressure to the crankcase at full power.
I would think that if you vented it to the exhaust there would be a negative pressure.
You're right about the negative pressure, but with everyone going to 4-5 inch pipes, the induced negative pressure in the exhaust system might be less than that generated by the turbo on the intake side.
The thing that would offset (to some degree) this larger exhaust pipe diameter would be the vapors from the combustion process in that is added to the air from the intake.
What would also then hinder the ability to induce a negative pressure would be the length of much smaller diameter hose that is routed frmo the CCV to the entrance point in the exhaust system (shorter run would hurt less, but then you're competing with hotter exhaust gases for pipe volume).
The whole series of plusses and minuses may end up being a wash.
The whole thing could be calculated for sure, but someone would ahve to go through the stoichiometry of the combustion process, generation of by-products, gas temperatures and cooling profiles, gas velocities, etc. Might be fun, but not sure it's worth the effort. It would be a whole lot easier to get manaometer readings from real world installations.
I do have a 4 in MBRP pipe, muffler and all. I don't know about any calculation. Here is what I did. I lay on my back like a cheap hooker and the engine was warm in the spring/summer time. Exhaust was clear and hose output was cloudy. Insert hose in pipe and exhaust was slightly clouded, take hose out and it was clear. Repeat again and again and results were the same. Conclusion? There is suction even at idle with a 4 in exhaust.
Exhaust was clear and hose output was cloudy. Insert hose in pipe and exhaust was slightly clouded, take hose out and it was clear. Repeat again and again and results were the same. Conclusion? There is suction even at idle with a 4 in exhaust.
Where and how did you insert the hose from the CCV into your tail pipe? In my 1965 A/H Sprite race car, I had a 4 in tailpipe and employed an expansion section at the exit that flared to about 8 in. I had a 1/2 in pipe welded into the tailpipe at the beginning of the flare at about a 30 deg angle to the exhaust flow to scavenge the crankcase. My CCV was on the side of the engine and low enough to allow a straight run of metal conduit to the tailpipe connection.
This worked well, but my RPMs were usually in the 5K to 7K range. On my truck I have a US Gear exhaust brake mounted in the tailpipe, and when using it, the RPMs are high, but there is very little flow in the tailpipe so I'm afraid that positive pressure would back up into the CCV.
I went to Home Depot and bought a 6 in section of black pipe, cut it to point and drilled a hole in the exhaust and had it welded in. I set this hole at the top of the hump above the axle
When you connect the hose as in the picture Alan posted, you can run it up over the brake booster so any liquid oil getting through will be more likely to drip back down the hose into the valve cover. It looks like his is just run straight down, though. Also, the breather element has one of those brillo-looking filters in it to keep any oil blow-by to a minimum, but there will be some.
In actuality, you probably have a greater chance of oil leaking or other problems by leaving it connected! My '02 had only 60k on it when I got it and the orange CAC tubes under the Y-pipe were already leaking. That leads to oil running down the back of the engine, which eventually will drip. Look at the boots between the air tubes & intercooler (especially on the driver's side) -- if it's like mine, it's oil soaked and very dirty. It can eventually pop off.
I'll be cleaning the entire intake path & intercooler and replacing the boots shortly. The mod is definitely worth it IMHO.
Joe
------------------------------------------
2002 7.3L F250 XLT CrewCab ShortBed 2WD
Im gonna be in Panama city for the weekend, you should do the mod for me.
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