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This system is compromised of a wastegate relief nipple for the turbo to allow ALOT more boost to be made. The other part is a 2X2 module that plugs inline with the MAP sensor and limits the amount of boost pressure that the MAP sensor sees and transmits to the computer, thus keeps the computer from defueling the truck from excessive boost. With the boost "hidden" the computer then has to add more fuel for the extra boost made which is instant HP and tremendous throttle response.
I think that if you have a factory turbocharger, more than 23-25 lbs. of boost is excessive and counter-productive anyways. I fool my computer by simply grounding the MAP sensor signal wire. PCM never commands the wastegate open, and it never defuels. However, I never really push my truck.....
I properly adjusted stock turbo should not see over 25psi. Your super heating air at that point, too much drive pressure. To prevent de-fueling you can get a boost regulator from ITP diesel. Whatever you do do not get a boost relive valve.
I defanitely would not buy from that guy. He does not know wholly what he is talking about. If you want him to reply, ask him how it is possible that the PCM "adds" more fuel to compensate for the excess boost. It does not add fuel, it just does not TAKE fuel AWAY (defueling).
I think that if you have a factory turbocharger, more than 23-25 lbs. of boost is excessive and counter-productive anyways. I fool my computer by simply grounding the MAP sensor signal wire. PCM never commands the wastegate open, and it never defuels. However, I never really push my truck.....
Does doing it that way set off a CEL????
If not,what wire did you ground?
Does doing it that way set off a CEL????
If not,what wire did you ground?
I have NEVER seen the check engine light (save for KOEO) with this setup. My brother's truck ('99.5), my old monster truck ('95), and my current '01 have ALL had the signal output wires grounded. Codes? I don't know and don't really care. I'm one of those people who ignores codes if I know what's causing them. If it's of my own doing, then no problem. However, I have NO driveability concerns and no CEL.
So do you cut the signal wire and slice it into the ground wire with a wire nut, or just cutting and connecting to frame/block somewhere?
Easiest way of course.
The wire is spliced into the signal wire. I've seen "scotch-taps" on some of them, but I've cut insulation and soldered mine into the existing wire and simply used an eyelet crimped and bolted to the body.
I properly adjusted stock turbo should not see over 25psi. Your super heating air at that point, too much drive pressure. To prevent de-fueling you can get a boost regulator from ITP diesel. Whatever you do do not get a boost relive valve.
Why not? i bought the boost relief valve from black-cloud, and the aih with boost fitting. i get up to 27-28 if i push on it... with the dp-tuner at 140... what's wrong with the relief valves?
i havent seen anything wrong with mine, i bought the same one from BCD.
alot of guys say your installing a boost leak, but i still hit 26 psi. in 80 econo.
so i will keep it, the option is a boost regulator, it just allows 22 psi through the line instead of bleeding it off. but at 26 psi, i dont think i need any more.