Rusted Rocker Panels
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 60
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From: Budd Lake
Rusted Rocker Panels
My '94 4.0 AWD is a worker bee at best *interior is dirty but functional*, and the rusted out rocker panels will likely be its swan song unless I fix them before next state inspection.
They are really bad; any one have a good idea on how they are best fixed?
I do have more money to put into this chassis with brakes, suspension and CV repairs/replacement... but so far the drive train has been very good.
Can I get aftermarket rivet-on replacement panels for DIY install? Most body shops around here just want to quote me prices over $1k to make me go away so they won't have to deal with it.
They are really bad; any one have a good idea on how they are best fixed?
I do have more money to put into this chassis with brakes, suspension and CV repairs/replacement... but so far the drive train has been very good.
Can I get aftermarket rivet-on replacement panels for DIY install? Most body shops around here just want to quote me prices over $1k to make me go away so they won't have to deal with it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
http://www.raybuck.com/wsm/c-155_86-...ostar_van.html
got some good body people on the forum, just ask any questions for help
got some good body people on the forum, just ask any questions for help
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Having a shop replace them is very expensive. Its not thay they necessarily want you to go away, this is very labor intesive to do it right, lots of cutting and welding, then grinding and sanding. I was quoted $2300 to do them on my parents van.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 3
From: gravel road ONTARIO
No Problem !
Wow you guys are pretty strict, Aerostars are a unibody chassis but have full length frame rails and don't rely on the rockker panel for chassis strength. If they did, I would see 95% of aerostars on the road here folded in half.
Last time I priced them for mine, the left side was under $40 Canadian and the R side was under $60? I didn't fix because I only paid 600 for 2 aerostars and the good one only had holes in the rockers. Unless yours are rotted past the lip where the door seals attach you shouldn't have any problem doing them your self. Body shops, even the Ford dealers just glue them on now. That glue may cost more than the panels? Even use a couple tubes of Siliprene from a transport trailer repair place and drill/snip/rivet to your hearts content. Amazing what a can of black stoneguard can cover.
Hey its just a work van right?
Last time I priced them for mine, the left side was under $40 Canadian and the R side was under $60? I didn't fix because I only paid 600 for 2 aerostars and the good one only had holes in the rockers. Unless yours are rotted past the lip where the door seals attach you shouldn't have any problem doing them your self. Body shops, even the Ford dealers just glue them on now. That glue may cost more than the panels? Even use a couple tubes of Siliprene from a transport trailer repair place and drill/snip/rivet to your hearts content. Amazing what a can of black stoneguard can cover.
Hey its just a work van right?
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Thanks 68mercury250ranger for the interesting information on fixes. I'll have to look into the glue method. The job does not have to be perfect. When it's really rusty how much worse can you make it look?
I too have received big quotes from body shops. I think they have to do the job reasonably well or the rust just comes back and they have a disappointed customer, or if it looks poor 'cause they cut corners, it doesn't speak well for their work.
I'm open to any additional hints on replacing Aerostar rockers from others.
Thanks.
I too have received big quotes from body shops. I think they have to do the job reasonably well or the rust just comes back and they have a disappointed customer, or if it looks poor 'cause they cut corners, it doesn't speak well for their work.
I'm open to any additional hints on replacing Aerostar rockers from others.
Thanks.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 60
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From: Budd Lake
Strict inspections
Well, the inspection thing in NJ is kind of a racket. In terms of body rust, basically if there is a hole it is considered a safety issue because you might scratch or cut yourself or someone else. Also, some exhaust gas (CO) might get in and give you a headache. It all depends on who inspects the vehicle. Still, the police do have grounds to stop and hassle you if there are rusty holes. Even if there's just an ugly car, you can bet you'll be stopped and questioned for some arcane reason if you're in one of the tony areas (or wannabe tony areas) in this state.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 248
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
Up here in the Puget Sound, cheap Aeros are so plentiful that I'd never consider fixing one due to rust. Right now, on CraigsList, there are something like five for under $500, and you can bet there's no (or nearly no) rust on any of them.
I've been under probably a dozen local Aeros, and four of my own, and no rust, nada. And it's very wet up here, and right on the salt water.
Paul, your profile doesn't have your location info, but you might consider buying one with a bad transmission out here on the west coast and dragging it home, rather than anything other than very light rust repair.
I've been under probably a dozen local Aeros, and four of my own, and no rust, nada. And it's very wet up here, and right on the salt water.
Paul, your profile doesn't have your location info, but you might consider buying one with a bad transmission out here on the west coast and dragging it home, rather than anything other than very light rust repair.
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Junior User
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From: Budd Lake
Salty Dogs in New Jersey
To reply to asavage, I'm in New jersey, and that's on the East Cost. It's kind of a long drag for an Aerostar! My trans is OK but not perfect either. When running downhill, it is as if I had shifted to neutral because I get no engine braking at all in any gear.
Anyhow, as for the rust, it is due mostly to the rock salt and grit used on the roads around here in the wintertime so we don't get bent rocker panels... bent around a tree when we slide off untreated roads!
I'll try the replacements and see how I make out. I have a few months yet... Thanks for everyone's feedback! I'll post again once I've got the panels on.
Anyhow, as for the rust, it is due mostly to the rock salt and grit used on the roads around here in the wintertime so we don't get bent rocker panels... bent around a tree when we slide off untreated roads!
I'll try the replacements and see how I make out. I have a few months yet... Thanks for everyone's feedback! I'll post again once I've got the panels on.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Rochester, NY
Until a year or so ago, JC Whitney listed rocker panel and quarter panel patch panels (cheap too). But they're no longer available. More recently, I found this site: www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?p=sm - but I have no experience with this company. I have no idea if they're reputable or not, or whether their panels are any good.
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
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Rusty rockers
Many years ago a friend had an 80's Econo with the lower half mostly gone.
Here's the quick fix: (this will amaze...)
1) Clean up rusted areas as best as you can.
2) Paint/seal thoroughly (check body supply stores for a rust-stop goop that's supposed to be highly effective)(I forget the name).
3) Now go to a hardware and buy carpet runner: usually comes in brown or black / ribbed / rubbery kind. (do the black)
4) Cut length-wise the width you'll need (use a steel ruler and just follow a rib)
5) Contact cement the bejiggers out of van and back of runner.
6) Have someone grab one end, you the other (possibly a third in the middle). Stretch as best you can and stick upper edge on first (go right over door gaps if you decide to run it up the side aways). Smooth downwards (middle first working towards edges) until the entire length is attached. Runner is stiff enough to bridge fairly large holes with no sag.
7) Take one of those disposable plastic utility knives and extend the blade 3-4 inches. Stick it into gaps between doors and carefully saw around edge of door at a slight bevel. Then do the same down the other side of the gap. (you will have removed a quarter inch allowing the door to open).
Optional: use a matching caulk to seal upper edge of runner-molding.
Bah-dah-bing! Rust is now halted and covered, inexpensively and easily and quickly, with the runner. BONUS! You now have a custom, stone-deflecting moulding down the length of your rocker panel!
This might even be a good idea on new vehicles to prevent damage.
Here's the quick fix: (this will amaze...)
1) Clean up rusted areas as best as you can.
2) Paint/seal thoroughly (check body supply stores for a rust-stop goop that's supposed to be highly effective)(I forget the name).
3) Now go to a hardware and buy carpet runner: usually comes in brown or black / ribbed / rubbery kind. (do the black)
4) Cut length-wise the width you'll need (use a steel ruler and just follow a rib)
5) Contact cement the bejiggers out of van and back of runner.
6) Have someone grab one end, you the other (possibly a third in the middle). Stretch as best you can and stick upper edge on first (go right over door gaps if you decide to run it up the side aways). Smooth downwards (middle first working towards edges) until the entire length is attached. Runner is stiff enough to bridge fairly large holes with no sag.
7) Take one of those disposable plastic utility knives and extend the blade 3-4 inches. Stick it into gaps between doors and carefully saw around edge of door at a slight bevel. Then do the same down the other side of the gap. (you will have removed a quarter inch allowing the door to open).
Optional: use a matching caulk to seal upper edge of runner-molding.
Bah-dah-bing! Rust is now halted and covered, inexpensively and easily and quickly, with the runner. BONUS! You now have a custom, stone-deflecting moulding down the length of your rocker panel!
This might even be a good idea on new vehicles to prevent damage.
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 307
Likes: 1
From: McMinnville, TN
Many years ago a friend had an 80's Econo with the lower half mostly gone.
Here's the quick fix: (this will amaze...)
1) Clean up rusted areas as best as you can.
2) Paint/seal thoroughly (check body supply stores for a rust-stop goop that's supposed to be highly effective)(I forget the name).
3) Now go to a hardware and buy carpet runner: usually comes in brown or black / ribbed / rubbery kind. (do the black)
4) Cut length-wise the width you'll need (use a steel ruler and just follow a rib)
5) Contact cement the bejiggers out of van and back of runner.
6) Have someone grab one end, you the other (possibly a third in the middle). Stretch as best you can and stick upper edge on first (go right over door gaps if you decide to run it up the side aways). Smooth downwards (middle first working towards edges) until the entire length is attached. Runner is stiff enough to bridge fairly large holes with no sag.
7) Take one of those disposable plastic utility knives and extend the blade 3-4 inches. Stick it into gaps between doors and carefully saw around edge of door at a slight bevel. Then do the same down the other side of the gap. (you will have removed a quarter inch allowing the door to open).
Optional: use a matching caulk to seal upper edge of runner-molding.
Bah-dah-bing! Rust is now halted and covered, inexpensively and easily and quickly, with the runner. BONUS! You now have a custom, stone-deflecting moulding down the length of your rocker panel!
This might even be a good idea on new vehicles to prevent damage.
Here's the quick fix: (this will amaze...)
1) Clean up rusted areas as best as you can.
2) Paint/seal thoroughly (check body supply stores for a rust-stop goop that's supposed to be highly effective)(I forget the name).
3) Now go to a hardware and buy carpet runner: usually comes in brown or black / ribbed / rubbery kind. (do the black)
4) Cut length-wise the width you'll need (use a steel ruler and just follow a rib)
5) Contact cement the bejiggers out of van and back of runner.
6) Have someone grab one end, you the other (possibly a third in the middle). Stretch as best you can and stick upper edge on first (go right over door gaps if you decide to run it up the side aways). Smooth downwards (middle first working towards edges) until the entire length is attached. Runner is stiff enough to bridge fairly large holes with no sag.
7) Take one of those disposable plastic utility knives and extend the blade 3-4 inches. Stick it into gaps between doors and carefully saw around edge of door at a slight bevel. Then do the same down the other side of the gap. (you will have removed a quarter inch allowing the door to open).
Optional: use a matching caulk to seal upper edge of runner-molding.
Bah-dah-bing! Rust is now halted and covered, inexpensively and easily and quickly, with the runner. BONUS! You now have a custom, stone-deflecting moulding down the length of your rocker panel!
This might even be a good idea on new vehicles to prevent damage.
I was thinking along the same lines as I was reading this! I almost bought a 68 BMW years ago and it had severely rusted rockers. They took some of that black vinyl baseboard trim like is used in hospital and schools and riveted/screwed/glued them on. It looked like a cheap body kit!
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