Can you guys tell me about the interchangability of water pumps on FEs? I have an early 352 (solid lifter) in a '58 Fairlane. Rebuilt it stock, .040 over. Also the radiator has a new core. Since the rebuild, about 1800 miles ago, it has struggled to maintain low engine temps. Idling after a warm up drive, it will exceed 215 degrees per my RF gun on the coolant return.

I've tried different radiator caps, six blade fan, playing with coolant mixture ratios, and am ready to try a different water pump. Will a high flow pump meant for a later 390 fit my block?

 

Was the block sonic checked at .040? Also what year is the block? Early 58-59 352 blocks did have thinner cyl wall cores until the 390 was developed in 60 for 61 production. Early blocks were good normally to .030. That could be part of the problem of it running hot. I sure hope not though. I'd hope it would be ok at .040.

If your using a 65 or later WP with a alt any good aftermarket pump should bolt on. Pulley size can also affect things. You can use a larger crank pulley and a smaller water pump pulley to speed up the WP. Pulley diameters were mixed and matched by Ford depending on the vehicle, accessories for desired pump speed. Only other concern are the 67 and older vs 68 and newer offset and bolt pattern crank pulleys. March also sells a few different pulley sets.

You did install the head gaskets correctly? Both coolant slots to the rear? That would cause a the cooling loop to get short changed and run hot.

Timing and air/fuel mix is ok?

What degree thermostat are you running? And did all the air pockets burp out?? Does it puke antifreeze? I'm guessing these things are/were covered? Sometimes the simple things get ya.

So a little more info before you throw more cash at it. Guys here a really good and have some great ideas and solutions.

G.

 

Block was sonic checked OK. I'm not sure of the year of the block. I've changed out the 180 degree thermostat twice, which I forgot to mention.

As far as the head gasket position, I'll have to check with the shop that did the rebuild. Hope that's not it. No pulleys were changed, though, and it did not have this issue before the rebuild, so it makes me wonder.

I made sure to burp it, and it does not puke antifreeze.

Thanks for the info on water pumps. I may try one for a '65 as a last resort.

 

Look at the front corner of the head gasket where it sticks out. Should look square shaped and the same on both sides.

Maybe remove the WP and be sure it's ok if it was the same old one used on the rebuild. Check the impeller (loose.. rotted...etc..) and shaft for bearing slop/wear. Hope it's something simple.

G.

 

If you cant get it, I installed a $6 water impeller plate on my 390 and boy it moves that coolant like crazy. You can get 'em at summit, says that it improves coolant flow 60%. Just makes for a slightly cooler winter! I've got a 180 thermostat and it runs at about 170-175 with temp's below 60 outside.

 

Well, I checked, and the lower front corner of the head gaskets is sticking out on both sides, and they are square. Does that mean they are installed correctly?

I installed a rebuilt water pump prior to reinstalling the engine, but it is a standard one. I've read there are high-flow ones and would like to try one, if it will fit.

What is strange in my situtation is that I can start it up cold and let it idle all day long, and it won't get hot. Stays right on 180-185. But if I drive it a while, then stop and idle, it heats right up.

I've checked the timing several times as well. The car runs wonderfully, just gets hot. Cools off when I get moving again.

Thanks again.

 

Somethign i have never understood is why the head gaskets block off the water port on the #4 and 8 end of the heads. Why would ford make the block and the head with the same port and then have the gasket block it? Felpro, coteco, detroit gasket...they all do the same thing. Was it a botch up at the factory and thats how they fixed it? But they made this block for 20 years or more...i could keep going. Anyone feel me?

 

Thanks 73F100*8Mile. I checked out the part at Summit. Could be just what I need. Is it an easy install?

 

First off, the castings have way more holes than needed for cooling because they had to get the sand out after being cast. Have you ever seen a set of FE heads marked "Left" or "Right"? No such thing! One head casting fits both sides with cooling passages at both ends of the head. Just block the one you don't need.

The cooling circuit that Glenn mentioned: The water pump pushes coolant through the block first, then back through the heads. If the holes at the front were open, the coolant would never cycle to the back of the block or return through the heads. Gasket tabs forward=good.
Air flow at idle after working the engine...Is there a fan shroud installed? Is there a fan clutch? Bent fan tips toward the radiator?

One thing I wouldn't know first-hand: Some say that a new engine runs hot. I wouldn't know, never had a new one. 1500 miles...I don't really know of a magic number where friction becomes a non-issue. Hopefully I learn something new here.

 

I'm going for an original look, so there is no fan shroud or clutch. Fan tips are toward radiator. This is my first "new" (rebuilt) engine, and I too have heard that they can run hot from everything being so tight. I would think that by now (1800 mi) that would not be so much of an issue, but like you Hypoid, I hope to learn.

Thanks for your input.

 

The anti-cavitation plate is simple to install. Just remove pump, unbolt the back circular plate on the back of the pump, center your plate on the impeller, drill your holes and rivot the sucker on there. Just make sure your rivots go in snug and none of them are loose. Don't wanna have to pull the pump later just for one little rivot. I've got 8,000 miles on mine with no issues so far and I've transfered it once to another pump. I'd try to find your actual problem though instead of masking it right off the bat. With 1800 miles, your pretty well broke in. Things are still somewhat tight but it's not gonna loosing up much more to make any difference in coolant temps. You've either got thin walls, clogged block, or clogged rad. Just start eliminating them. You can flow check your rad yourself. Just pull off the upper/lower hoses, put your hand over the lower one while filling up the rad with water through the upper and after it fills, release the lower to allow the water to flow out. If it flows right out within a couple, three seconds then you're good. Ya i know it sounds bogus but I took my rad to a rad shop and thats how all those "professional" rad guys test them w/o opening them. Also when i had my 360, i could run the interstate all day long but when i pulled off the ramp, at idle at the stop light the temp would climb like crazy till i got going again. Then i built 'er into a 390 and haven't had hot weather on the inerstate yet to see if she still does it. I've got a 4row rad with full shroud, stiff fan clutch, 19" 6 blade fan, and rebuilt pump w/ the impeller plate. I also insulated between the condensor and rad to direct as much air flow as possible throught the rad. Ok carpal tunnel has now set in!

 

Three FE waterpumps, not two

B9AZ-8501-A 1958/62

C4AZ-8501-A 1963/64

D4TZ-8501-H 1965/76 (replaces D0AZ-D and C5AZ-? -I forget)

 

73F100; you mean to block off the front coolant passages not # 4 and 8. To block #4 and 8 will cause overheating problems. Head gaskets have a front direction stamped on them for a reason.
Depending on what year FE your playing with they had different diameters for crank and pump pulley diameters. This would underdrive or overdrive the pump.
Small to big, big to small, small to small but never a big to big in pulley size as they would hit each other.
If your having cooling problems the little gain in increased pump speed isn't enough to prevent your overheating problems, a 4 or 5 row stagger tube radiator with shroud is in order.

 

well both times i tore down my 360 i noticed it and always wondered why the head gasket blocks it off. Maybe my memory is playin with me beemer, i could'a swore it was both back ports. Ya know how you have the bottom circular whole then above that the long hole thats about 3inchs long and then another circular hole. Well whatever end its on, why would they block it? Somebody edjumacate me!

 

How many cores in your radiator. And what is your ambient temp. I have had to pull a two core and install a four core. When taking an Alaska rig south.