My 5 speed in my ’87 BII has been getting harder and harder to shift into 2<SUP>nd</SUP> and then 1<SUP>st</SUP> gears. On my way home last weekend I stopped at a stop sign and it wouldn’t go into any gear. I was finally able to get it into reverse and then into third by slamming it really hard. I limped home in third gear and now need to get it fixed. I no that this is not an uncommon problem for manual trans with lots of miles but it has never happened to me. Where should I look and how should I fix this problem?<O</O

 

sounds like the synchronizers have gone.

 

How many miles on it? I'm willing to lean more towards the clutch starting to go. My '86 Ranger had a bad pilot bearing in it that I drove with for about 60k miles before the clutch finally started acting up like that. Ended up getting the transmission somewhat overhauled in the process, as the input shaft got ate up and that particular transmission could only be dissassembled from the tail forward, or so I was told. The synchros could also be going as well, probably from being driven with a worn out clutch. Best bet, although -expensive-, would be to replace the clutch and overhaul the transmission... but I would at least replace the clutch kit (pressure plate, friction disc, throwout bearing and pilot bearing / bushing) and go from there. I would also check out the clutch hydraulic system to make sure it isn't leaking, or that there is no air in the system FIRST. If it has air in the system, or is leaking, then I would fix that , then see how that affects operability. If it's still not going into gear easily, then replace the clutch. My BII and my Nissan are both close... I can tell because a lot of times with the truck sitting still I have to double-clutch it to get it into gear. I think that if/when my BIIs clutch goes, I'll probably do a 4.0 clutch/flywheel swap.

 

Have you checked the fluids? I think your year vehicle has rubber plugs on the tranny that can leak (or fall inside). I would start with a drain and fill.

 

I checked the fluid in the reservoir and it was full. I did notice a hose going into the transfer case that was cracked at the union it appeared to be wet with fluid but was dry (a little tacky) to the touch. From the under side this hose goes into a tee with one hose going up into the 4WD selection lever and the other curves up around the top of the trans / transfer case.<O</O

I noticed after I pulled the truck into the garage to work on it that I could shift through all gears 1,2,3,4,5,& R I put the truck in to neutral started it up and was able to put it in first and then reverse and move the truck forward and backward in the garage. When I tried to put it back into first it was locked out from all gears again.

I decided to try replacing the clutch and all that goes with it. My Haynes manual says to remove the shift lever and then "disconnect the barbed end from the clutch/starter interlock" (how?) and then disconnect the clutch peddle. I removed the shift lever with no problems but can’t figure out how to disconnect the clutch peddle.

When I removed the shifter lever boot I noticed that the hose coming from the tee on the cracked hose going into transfer case had a plug in it and was not going to any thing.<O</O

What is the best way to disconnect the clutch peddled???

 

Gah. You know what it probably is... one, that hose I believe is your tranny/t-case vent... and two, I bet your shifter is worn out. I actually had the lever come out of the shifter assembly itself on my '86 Ranger and put it back together a la "made it work". Finally had to have it replaced as it was leaking gear oil really bad and was worn beyond serviceability when they did the clutch, etc. on it.

As far as removing that stuff, I can't remember if there are clips or what -- but you may want to check the online repair guides at autozone.com and see if it has pictures that shows you a little better.

 

When you say shifter is worn out do you mean the lever or linkage? I was wondering also if it could be the lever (I've had that happen on a "70 F-100 - broken pin in the ball at bottom of the lever, the lever would pull right up out of the floor).
When I pulled the boot on my BII I noticed a white nylon thing-a-ma-jig where the lever meets the bulb it seemed to be loose and worn but the small ball at the end of the lever that fits into the trans shifter linkage rod seemed to be in really good shape.<O</O

 

My '86 Ranger actually had the retainer clip and spring come off completely (these are supposed to be above the plastic / nylon disc thing that the shift lever goes through... and if yours is really worn, that doesn't help matters much, either), so the shifter lever / rod came out of the tranny all of the way. Seems like yours is very loose, which is probably not helping your shifting problem. If I remember right, it's supposed to have a little play, but not too much. I believe the spring and retainer clip are supposed to keep it inside the assembly, but also allow for some play.

 

I checked out the shifter lever and I don’t think there is any thing wrong there. I replaced the shifter lever and with the 4WD selector in neutral I can shift through all 5 forward gears just fine the reveres gears start to grind if I try to put it into reverse. With the 4WD selector in 4high or 2WD I can't shift into any gear.

 

Sounds like it's probably the clutch then. Most of the Ranger-based vehicles, at least in the 80s - early 90s, you could start 'em up, push the clutch in, and if you didn't wait a few seconds or so before trying to put it in reverse, it'd click / grind. My Ranger did it, even AFTER it had a new clutch / hydraulic system / shifter / "rebuilt" tranny. You may also want to have the transfer case checked, as it seems it's only when it's not in neutral that it does this.... I've never heard of the t-case causing shifting issues, though.

 

Other than replacing a clutch and changing fluid I've never had any transmission work done on a vehicle. If I have the transmission and transfer case out of the vehicle can I take them to a transmission shop and have them checked out? What kind of charge should I expect just to have them checked? For that mater what should replacing the clutch, bearing and everything that go with it run me?

 

You can get an OEM clutch replacement kit with all the parts for 2-300 bucks, last I checked, and that is with the slave cylinder included, if I remember right. The parts aren't too expensive, not like it used to be. I remember when my Ranger's clutch kit cost me almost $300, and that is WITHOUT a slave cylinder. Not sure if a shop can check your trans and t-case while removed from the vehicle, but you can call and ask. Be careful that you don't go to a shop that will take things apart and force you to pay for a rebuild, though. Hope this helps.

 

I was explaining the problems I was having to a coworker and he said that he thought the clutch was okay and that it was probably in the transmission gear box. He suggested that I test to see if the truck would roll with the transmission in gear and the clutch peddle depressed. I got home to day and tried it.

With the truck turned off I can shift through all 5 forward gears and reverse. The truck does not roll in any gear unless the clutch is depressed and then it will roll easily in all gears. At one point I thought I felt/heard some clicking in first gear but I could not get it to repeat and think that maybe the clutch peddle was not depressed completely.

With the truck on it is a different story. When I first start the truck I can shift into any gear release the clutch and the truck will start to move (well it starts to stall in 4<SUP>th</SUP> or 5<SUP>th</SUP>). If I try to shift through the gears again I can not sift into 1<SUP>st</SUP> or 2<SUP>nd</SUP> at all and the gears grind terribly when I try to shift into reverse.

The trans code on the door is “D”, the odometer reads 70234.5 (I’m sure it is at least 170K) and one of the bolts holding the sift lever housing is stripped out so I assume it has been worked on before. So what is everyone’s opinion again please.

 

Could be the syncros/bearings as well. Like I said previously, the BIIs and Rangers with 5-speeds are notorious for (even still "new", my '86 did it with less than 20k miles on it, and it was maybe two years old... when my brother still owned it...) having the grinding in reverse. Have you tried revving the engine slightly, pushing in the clutch all the way, let it ride for 5-10 seconds and then try shifting into reverse? Also, you may have to push the clutch in and rev the engine slightly to get it into 1st and 2nd while sitting still. It's a common quirk I've seen before, and it's usually very pronounced with a well-worn clutch. You may also want to check the gear oil level in the transmission to be safe, if any leakage is noticeable. Worst case scenario would be having the transmission overhauled and a new clutch installed -- which will run you probably close to if not more than $1500.

 

If it trys to move in 1st and 2nd with the clutch released (peddle pushed to the floor). In a semi it would be either the pressure plate bad or the pilot bearing trying to freeze up. I really don't think the bushing that they use in these smaller rigs would keep the input shaft turning, sounds like you need a new clutch to me.