Manual Shifting Problems
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Come to think of it, when my clutch in my '86 Ranger went really askew, found out the pilot bearing had eaten itself and trashed the input shaft. Generally speaking, though, when the clutch is starting to really go south, with the truck running, you'll have difficulty putting it in any gear -- and if you can get it to go, it will grind like hell. Biggest key thing to check would be whether or not you get the lurch when starting the truck while in gear with the clutch depressed all the way. If it is starting to lurch, then your clutch is more likely to be culprit. Wouldn't surprise me if there were other issues involved (shifter, shifting forks in the tranny, synchros, bearings, etc.) with the transmission itself, but like I said, unless you have the know-how and get the rebuild kit(s) and clutch kit, etc., and do it yourself, you're looking at a lot of $$$ to have everything rebuilt, etc.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 215
Likes: 2
From: San Diego
It could be the master cylinder that's going bad. There's an access panel in the bellhousing (driver's side) that allows you to view the slave cylinder travel when someone depresses the clutch pedal. It should move something on the order of half an inch.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Replacing Trans ???
I still haven't checked the cluch yet. I'v ben busy and don't absolutly have to have the truck working any time soon so it's on a back burnner in my garrage. I've found an '88 2.9 Ranger for sale in the area for $300 and am wondering if the 5spd from it would just swap into my '86 BII. (my wifes gonna have a fit if I bing home another truck, I've already kicked her mini van out of the garrage for both of my repair pending trucks)
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Next time you mess with it before you tear anything down... start 'er up and push down slightly on the shifter with it in 4H or 2H and try to shift through all the gears (can't remember if you said you put a new one or what in?). If that doesn't do it, try pulling up slightly on it and try shifting. I can't remember what it was that made me investigate my shifter problem and what I did to "fix" it until I could get something in there... I believe it was pulling up slightly, come to think of it.
On another note, used transmissions can be a catch-22. I'd rather put the time and $$$ in rebuilding one, putting a new clutch in and all new hydraulic parts (which that could be part of the problem too... leakage or blow-by on the master or slave cylinder... or low fluid level in the master...) and have it fixed -right- than to nickel-and-dime it to death. Just my $0.02
Let us know how things go... and hopefully, you won't be sleeping in the garage anytime soon
On another note, used transmissions can be a catch-22. I'd rather put the time and $$$ in rebuilding one, putting a new clutch in and all new hydraulic parts (which that could be part of the problem too... leakage or blow-by on the master or slave cylinder... or low fluid level in the master...) and have it fixed -right- than to nickel-and-dime it to death. Just my $0.02
Let us know how things go... and hopefully, you won't be sleeping in the garage anytime soon
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Blue Springs, MO
progress
Well pulling up slightly on the shifter lever while trying to shift does not help any. I cannot shift into reverse with out grinding at any time but I can get it into reverse if I slam it OUCH (unless the truck is off then I cant get it into reverse at all). With the truck turned off and stopped I can easily shift through all forward gears back and forth as often as I try with or with out the clutch peddle depressed. I assume this is because the engine is not turning. While driving the truck I can shift from first to second to third (it is not easy but I can). If I try to down shift soon after up shifting I can’t. If I drive for a while (5-10 minutes) after up shifting and then try to down shift I can. I am thinking that I am getting blow by in either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. I have not noticed any signs of fluid leaking out of the clutch system and the reservoir is full. Does blow by sound likely and how do I test for blow by?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Check your hydraulic fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and maybe try bleeding the system, making sure you keep enough fluid in the system as to not allow (any more) air in. Check AutoZone's Online Repair Guides for more info, unless you already have a Haynes or Chilton's (or both) manual(s). If all of that checks out, then it's either the clutch hydraulic system or the clutch kit itself.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Blue Springs, MO
How do I disconect the hydraulic line from the master to the slave cylinder? There are no clips that I can see. It just looks like hard (maby renforced) rubber line molded to a barb. It wont even show signs of giving when I pull on it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
I believe there is a tool that is used to disconnect the coupling(s) at the master and slave cylinder(s). Reference the slave cylinder removal procedure on autozone.com:Click Here
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 215
Likes: 2
From: San Diego
Originally Posted by sailorjohn
I am thinking that I am getting blow by in either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. I have not noticed any signs of fluid leaking out of the clutch system and the reservoir is full. Does blow by sound likely and how do I test for blow by?
"It could be the master cylinder that's going bad. There's an access panel in the bellhousing (driver's side) that allows you to view the slave cylinder travel when someone depresses the clutch pedal. It should move something on the order of half an inch."
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Blue Springs, MO
Not the master cylinder
Well I changged out the master and bled the system twice and there is no change. I guess I'm back to pulling the tranny and checking the clutch and slave cylinder.
My '87 auto BII need a flywheel ring gear ($35), the clutch kit for the '86 manual ($75), slave cylinder ($100). Getting a drivable truck (priceless). The '87 has some engine issues allong with suspension and broken glass issues. However, the transmission has always seemed to work well. It wont start because an incorectly installed starter stripped all the teath off of the ring gear. I'm thinking of pulling the auto from the '87 replacing the ring gear and putting it in the '86 so I have something to drive while I work on the motor and manual tranny problems.
Will the ALD4 from the '87 swap into the 5sp '86?
My '87 auto BII need a flywheel ring gear ($35), the clutch kit for the '86 manual ($75), slave cylinder ($100). Getting a drivable truck (priceless). The '87 has some engine issues allong with suspension and broken glass issues. However, the transmission has always seemed to work well. It wont start because an incorectly installed starter stripped all the teath off of the ring gear. I'm thinking of pulling the auto from the '87 replacing the ring gear and putting it in the '86 so I have something to drive while I work on the motor and manual tranny problems.
Will the ALD4 from the '87 swap into the 5sp '86?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Originally Posted by sailorjohn
Will the ALD4 from the '87 swap into the 5sp '86?
Last edited by kernel-panic; Apr 6, 2007 at 09:17 AM.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Front Drive Shaft ???
My Haynes manual and autozone.com both give the same directions to remove the front drive shaft:
4. Remove the bolts and straps that retains the driveshaft to the front driving axle yoke. Remove the U-joint assembly from the front driving axle yoke.
So I’ve got the 4 torx bolts and the 2 straps removed but how do I get the U-joint assembly off the front driving axle yoke?
Do I just pry on it with a big pry bar?
I have the boot pulled back from the transfer case, but even once I do get the U-joint assembly off the front axle I don’t see how it is going to come out with out removing the transmission support bar and the front frame cross member!
Do these also need to be removed?
4. Remove the bolts and straps that retains the driveshaft to the front driving axle yoke. Remove the U-joint assembly from the front driving axle yoke.
So I’ve got the 4 torx bolts and the 2 straps removed but how do I get the U-joint assembly off the front driving axle yoke?
Do I just pry on it with a big pry bar?
I have the boot pulled back from the transfer case, but even once I do get the U-joint assembly off the front axle I don’t see how it is going to come out with out removing the transmission support bar and the front frame cross member!
Do these also need to be removed?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
You should be able to push the driveshaft back or use a prybar/big screwdriver to work the u-joint free from the yoke. The rubber boot SHOULD be covering a slip-shaft setup, IIRC. I thought both ends had the nuts and straps on the front driveshaft?? It's either that, or the t-case end should slip out of the case. I forget which. You shouldn't have to remove anything to pull the shafts, other than the bolts from the flanges on the rear one and the straps/nuts/bolts on the front.