Manual Shifting Problems
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Blue Springs, MO
All apart
I finally got my trans out and removed the Slave cylinder and clutch assembly. I think that I’ve found my problem.
Here’s what I found.
The release bearing moves quite freely but feels as though it has sand in it. (no problem I was planning on changing it any way)
The slave cylinder lookes 20 years old but other than that it looks okay (It is a lot less than I was expecting)
The clutch cover and flywheel look good especially considering what the pressure plate looks like.
The friction surfaces of the pressure plate are not excessively worn but are definitely at their limit. The big problem that I found was one of the 1” diameter by 1½“ long coil springs in the clutch plate is broken in at least four pieces. Also all of the coil springs have flat spots worn on them. There is a plate approximately 3/16” thick that floats around the middle of the coil springs between the friction plate and the top plate that holds the coil springs. A part of this plate about 2” long is broken and missing I could not find it any where.
I also noticed that the end of the transmission input shaft has two radiused groves at the end of it. One is right at the end the other is about 5/8” back from the end I do not know if they are from wear of if the shaft was manufactured that way. I am thinking that it was made that way!
So my question are:
Would you guys:
1) Replace the whole clutch assembly or just the pressure plate?
2) Replace the slave cylinder? (Is there any way to test the slave before I put it all back together?)
Also is there anything that I can do to check or test the trans while it is out of the truck.
Thank you for all of your help. It will be nice to get back on the road again.
Here’s what I found.
The release bearing moves quite freely but feels as though it has sand in it. (no problem I was planning on changing it any way)
The slave cylinder lookes 20 years old but other than that it looks okay (It is a lot less than I was expecting)
The clutch cover and flywheel look good especially considering what the pressure plate looks like.
The friction surfaces of the pressure plate are not excessively worn but are definitely at their limit. The big problem that I found was one of the 1” diameter by 1½“ long coil springs in the clutch plate is broken in at least four pieces. Also all of the coil springs have flat spots worn on them. There is a plate approximately 3/16” thick that floats around the middle of the coil springs between the friction plate and the top plate that holds the coil springs. A part of this plate about 2” long is broken and missing I could not find it any where.
I also noticed that the end of the transmission input shaft has two radiused groves at the end of it. One is right at the end the other is about 5/8” back from the end I do not know if they are from wear of if the shaft was manufactured that way. I am thinking that it was made that way!
So my question are:
Would you guys:
1) Replace the whole clutch assembly or just the pressure plate?
2) Replace the slave cylinder? (Is there any way to test the slave before I put it all back together?)
Also is there anything that I can do to check or test the trans while it is out of the truck.
Thank you for all of your help. It will be nice to get back on the road again.
Last edited by sailorjohn; Apr 30, 2007 at 08:23 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Replace the ENTIRE clutch kit. A lot of them (especially the OEM-style Hayes Heavy-duty clutch kits) come with the slave cylinder/throwout bearing assembly, friction disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. The wear on the input shaft is from a grenaded pilot bearing (my '86 Ranger was worse, lemme tell ya). The good: You can probably replace the friction disc / pressure plate / pilot bearing / slave-throwout bearing assembly and be fine. The bad: That input shaft will eventually eat the pilot bearing, and it costs a LOT of $$$ to have the that part replaced, if it's anything like my Ranger was. A $700 clutch job turned into a $1200 clutch job and transmission overhaul (this was in 1995/1996). I would take a new pilot bearing and double-check to see if it's going to cause issues or not, though.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Shuck's/Checker/Kragen/Advance carries several kits, that come with pretty much all the parts (you'll want to double check); Autozone carries similar kits; ditto with Napa. The Hays kits are usually more expensive than some of the others offered ($2-300), but they seem to be the ones that a lot of shops seem to use for their standard clutch jobs in my experiences. Shuck's/Checker/Kragen/Advance carries one kit in particular -- at least in stock in my area, that's not quite as expensive, that comes with everything including the hydraulic tool. One thing, though, I can't remember if the throwout bearing and slave are a single unit? If not, then I would at least put a new bearing in (that's a major part of the problem you were having, besides the rest of the carnage to the existing clutch). Anyhow, that's my $0.02. Hope this helps
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 6
From: Rio Rancho NM
I've used Centerforce clutches with great success. Once I started using them, I never wore one out. But I've replaced them every time I've had my tranny out (too many times to count). I most recently replaced my clutch when my slave went out. The old CFs have all been in good shape when removed too. And IIRC the slave comes as a unit assy w/ the throwout bearing attached. Fly N HI was my most recent source but CF clutches are easy to find.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Centerforce sells a kit? Not that I've seen. The best bang for the buck I've ever used were the Hays kits. There are others that also come with "all the parts in one box as well", but the Hays Super Brute truck clutches are pretty darn good.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Blue Springs, MO
going well
Okay I've got the rear engine oil seal replaced, and the tranny bolted back in the truck. I went with the upgraded clutch kit, I also replaced the slave cylinder (just incase). I had to make a new steel reducer bushing for the pilot bearing to go in the flywheel, the old one was to rough.
Befor I started all this I was having problems with my tachometer. IT WASN'T WORKING AT ALL. I'm thinking now would be a good time to get that fixed before I repace everything I removed to get the tranny out.
Where should I begin looking for the problem with my tachometer.
Befor I started all this I was having problems with my tachometer. IT WASN'T WORKING AT ALL. I'm thinking now would be a good time to get that fixed before I repace everything I removed to get the tranny out.
Where should I begin looking for the problem with my tachometer.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Check the wiring from your coil to the computer as well as the wiring from the distributor, and also to the instrument cluster. Something tells me a wire is broken somewhere or a connection is bad. The only other culprit would be if the tachometer itself bit the dust, that I know of. Have you test driven the truck after the clutch replacement yet? Let us know how it goes.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Blue Springs, MO
No test drive yet. I'm hoping to get the transfercase, exaust, drive shafts etc... put back this weekend and take the truck for a drive Monday. I'll Let you know how the drive goes. From what I'm hearing about the tach I don't need to worry about that untill later. The tach hasn't worked sence I got the truck so I imagin a few mor weeks/months wont hurt any thing.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Arrrggggg :(
Well the Truck is all back together but still on the stands. The Clutch hydraulic line is leaking where it goes into the slave cylinder. I am using a new clutch master cylinder and new slave cylinder with the old line. The new Master cylinder came with a rubber seal that seats in the bottom of the hole that the line connects into. I didn’t notice one in the new slave cylinder. When I installed the line into the master cylinder with the retaining pin in place there was/is no play and it feels like a tight connection. When I installed the line into the slave cylinder and installed the retaining pin there is some play and the connection feels lose. Is there supposed to be a seal at the bottom of the slave cylinder intake hole to seal against the line like with the master cylinder? If so what size should it be and can I get one and where? Could I just put an o-ring into the bottom of the hole to seal the line, if so what size would you suggest?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Yes, there is supposed to be a seal (o-ring) there, IIRC, but I forget the size or part #. I would think a new slave cylinder would have come with a new o-ring installed! I'm sure there are a few people here who can offer more info. What you can try is measure the hole and go and buy some o-rings that are as close to that size as possible and try that, but be careful what sort of material o-ring you buy, as it would have to be compatible with brake fluid. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 199
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Yea !!!
Okay I got a new seal and bled the cluth. Then the truck wouldn't start. Imagin that after what four months on the stands. Any ways I fried my charger about two years ago charging batteries in the rain (befor I had the garrage). So off to Wally world for a new charger. Charged the battery and the truck starts just like a Ford. The Cluch felt really week and I couldn't shift, well thats what happens when your 7 year old wants to help. I got my wife to help me bleed the clutch the second time. She said it felt tighter so she got to try it out. She took it for a "drive through all 5 gears and reverse a feww times on the stands and had no problems. If she can shift it it must be fixed. THANK YOU 
I owe you all a beer. I'm off to clean the garage take the truck off the stands and go for a drive. I'm taking the wife with me (she has AAA).Thank you all again I really apreceate the help.
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