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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:48 PM
  #16  
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THE KING
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From: Capac MI
It was a Diesel oil. Im gonna be hitting 120,000 In a little bit and im going to get back on the maintenance plan thats in the Manual.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:55 PM
  #17  
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Uzumati
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From: Central, Al
half a quart is nothing to worry about, Ford doesn't consider it excessive until it gets over 1qt/900miles

Make sure whatever oil you use is API CI-4 or CJ-4 rated and 15W40 dino or 5W40 synthetic, 10W30 is OK as long as high temps wont get above 70*F
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:55 PM
  #18  
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zx250
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Half a quart between oil changes is not bad.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:00 PM
  #19  
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THE KING
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From: Capac MI
OK good. What is the best Weight oil? I want a weight that i dont have to worry about changing from Summer to winter. Im probably going to use Rotella Syn.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:08 PM
  #20  
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Uzumati
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From: Central, Al
Rotella Synth 5W40 will treat you well
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:11 PM
  #21  
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THE KING
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From: Capac MI
Ok thanks, Autozone has it?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 08:18 PM
  #22  
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Izzy351
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Originally Posted by THE KING
Ok thanks, Autozone has it?
Wal-Mart does. The AZ here had no idea what I was talking about when I asked about it.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 08:50 PM
  #23  
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bdrummonds
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From: Millbrook Alabama
KING, If you(or previous owner) have been always running dino in your truck for 120k, I don't know that I would switch to a synt. oil now. As your truck has broken in certain wear patterns have formed on different parts, and (as bad as it may sound) oil residue(sludge, for lack of a better word) has formed in nooks and crannies. By switching to a syn. lube you run the risk of loosening some of the stuff that has built up around seals, and orings, and possible causing a seepage(leak) issue. DELO 400 is a fine dino oil that comes in a couple of different weights for specific areas of the country. Shell Rotella is also a fine dino oil that will go toe to toe with the DELO, I suggest do some research by going to the respective web sites and learning whats what with the oils, Castrol, Quaker state, definetley not high on the list of desireable oils for your $10,000.00 engine.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:24 PM
  #24  
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Izzy351
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Well, I'm switching. I wanted to the last change (the first oil change since I owned it), but I didn't see the syn at Wally World until after I put in the dino Rotella. I love how Mobil 1 treated my gasser. I put it in the engine, tranny, and rear-end. I'd be using the diesel Mobil 1 now if it wasn't $28/g. I'll probably put syn Mercon in the tranny shortly, too.

BTW, I got my 2002 F250 7.3L XLT CC SB with 60k on it in Jan -- been holding out and finally found the right deal!! Just starting the mods...
 
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:39 AM
  #25  
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slc10844
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From: Baltimore
Originally Posted by THE KING
Mileage? Gas Mileage. I noticed a gain but i think its because of the temps. I still drive only about 6 Miles a day and about 30 Miles on Wensdays
Only driving 6 miles a day the engine doesn't get to normal operating temperature. Condensation takes place in the crankcase and the moisture will mix with the oil. The oil needs to get up to operating temps to burn of contaminates.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:28 AM
  #26  
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THE KING
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From: Capac MI
Yea i know its not good for it. I try to leave it running when i get home after school for a couple more minutes. Also, after school/ work. How do you guys warm up your engines? I just wait a couple minutes then slowly take off not letting it get over 1500 RPMs or spooling up the turbo. What do you consider i do?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 12:28 PM
  #27  
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John311t
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Mine used to burn a qt between oil changes, thought it was just normal. Then when my turbo went and i was switchin everything over i found where my qt leak was, it between the turbo and pedistal, the oring were bad there and...the pedistal is leaking oil since that dumb thing is unplugged. The bottom of my valley was dry, but when i pulled the turbo, the ped had a coating of oil around it and i just notice the pedistal is leaking oil from the actuator arm. Im getting rid of that BS setup and getting the non ped mount and gutting out my valve.
 
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