Where do I stand?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Kingsland, GA
Originally Posted by pullinair
I'll skip the wife then, that would be a hard one to explain. Can i test the batts with this puppy? A/C right?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 491
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From: Kingsland, GA
Not true, most modern meters will either have a fused circuit or a reset button when you overload it. You can replace the fuses at radioshack but it's a huge hassel, but rule of thumb is never test resistance on a live circuit or you will have to fix or reset something, which can be a hassle. If you bought a really cheap meter, it very well could destroy it, I have Flukes so they never die.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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I like the fluke meters, when i took an electronics class(when i wanted to be an eletrical engineer long story), they had them and were much better than the cheap one i have. Im gonna buy a new meter tommorrow also, since mine is broken.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 491
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From: Kingsland, GA
DC stand for Direct Current, which means a positive or negative constant stream of electricity. A/C stands for Alternating Current, which means the current switches between positive and negative at equal voltage and on a given frequency your home outlets (except for your dryer and oven) is 110-120 volts 60 Hertz(Frequency). Frequency is the number of times the voltage make a complete cycle from positive to negative and back to positive again creating a sine wave. 60 Hz or hertz means your voltage cycles 60 times a second.
Last edited by Zwalters; Mar 6, 2007 at 09:57 PM. Reason: mispell
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Kingsland, GA
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Mountaintop, PA
Zwalters , got it, thanks for all the info! So when i go to test my batts in the future, use the A/C function and never test something with current that is in resistance mode.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 491
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From: Kingsland, GA
Originally Posted by pullinair
Zwalters , got it, thanks for all the info! So when i go to test my batts in the future, use the A/C function and never test something with current that is in resistance mode.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Mountaintop, PA
I am starting to bend the ***** out of my left front quarter panel to get this wheel well liner to drop down. I have no other idea on how to manueaver it becuase it is so tight. Where the plastic wheel well liner rides on the rim of the quarter panel is where I am tight as well as wher the liner meets the frame. Am I doing something wrong?
Tim
Tim
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Mountaintop, PA
Got my readings:
inj#1- 3.5
inj#3- 3.5
inj#5- 3.5
inj#7- 3.5
inj#2- 3.5
inj#4- 4.0
inj#6- 6.0
inj#8- 3.5
I didnt check at the valve cover yet its dinner time but I might give it a shot after dinner. When I test the Gp's you said to put a probe on the negative terminal. Did you mean the negative terminal of the Batteries?
inj#1- 3.5
inj#3- 3.5
inj#5- 3.5
inj#7- 3.5
inj#2- 3.5
inj#4- 4.0
inj#6- 6.0
inj#8- 3.5
I didnt check at the valve cover yet its dinner time but I might give it a shot after dinner. When I test the Gp's you said to put a probe on the negative terminal. Did you mean the negative terminal of the Batteries?
Last edited by pullinair; Mar 7, 2007 at 06:35 PM. Reason: hard to read