What year will swap with my 88 ?
#1
What year will swap with my 88 ?
I have a 88 BII, manual 5-speed, 4X4, 2.9L. and I have a guy down the road that has a BII, that he wants to give me. He doesn't know the year of it, and just wants to get rid of it. I was just wondering which years would work with my 88, so I know whether it would be worth getting.
#2
Would work in what way?
The 4x4 front axles are all interchangeable. The vast majority of BII's use the weaker D28, but some of the '90 models have the stronger D35.
They all use the same rear axle - the Ford 7.5 inch. Again a few '90 BII's got the 8.8.
'84 and '85 BII's used the 2.8 L V6 with a feedback carb. '86+ used the 2.9 L EFI V6. Next to nothing is interchageable between the two engines, but you can completely swap one engine for the other if you want to go to the effort.
All of the transmissions are essentially interchangeable in terms of bolt pattern and such. But they aren't all the same length, so some transmission swaps require more work than others.
I'm sure there are a lot of other details. If you could explain in more detail what you want to get from the second BII, we could give a more specific response.
The 4x4 front axles are all interchangeable. The vast majority of BII's use the weaker D28, but some of the '90 models have the stronger D35.
They all use the same rear axle - the Ford 7.5 inch. Again a few '90 BII's got the 8.8.
'84 and '85 BII's used the 2.8 L V6 with a feedback carb. '86+ used the 2.9 L EFI V6. Next to nothing is interchageable between the two engines, but you can completely swap one engine for the other if you want to go to the effort.
All of the transmissions are essentially interchangeable in terms of bolt pattern and such. But they aren't all the same length, so some transmission swaps require more work than others.
I'm sure there are a lot of other details. If you could explain in more detail what you want to get from the second BII, we could give a more specific response.
#3
I just got a chance to look at it. It's an 86' with the same engine as mine, and also 4X4. I want to take the lenses[ tail, turn, etc. ], and hold on to them, in the event that I break one of mine. I was going to get the seats, but mine are in better shape.
Unfortunately, I don't have the space to store large parts, or I would hold on to the engine, trans, and transfer also.
After I take what little bit that I want off of it, I'll let you guys know, then anyone close to where I live can come and get whatever they may need.
Unfortunately, I don't have the space to store large parts, or I would hold on to the engine, trans, and transfer also.
After I take what little bit that I want off of it, I'll let you guys know, then anyone close to where I live can come and get whatever they may need.
#5
84-88 body style was the same and all body parts will interchange.
84-85 had 2.8 carbed motors 86-up had 2.9 FI
84 gas tank will only work with 84. 85-88 the tanks will interchange.
Front end and rearend will work in all models even including the 1st generation X's although you have to flip the rear spring pads an on the 8.8 form an x.
Trans will all fit and are interchangeable. But will take drive shaft modifications.
For a little more power with less hassle then a V-8 you can drop a 4.0 in real easy with no major modifications.
84-85 had 2.8 carbed motors 86-up had 2.9 FI
84 gas tank will only work with 84. 85-88 the tanks will interchange.
Front end and rearend will work in all models even including the 1st generation X's although you have to flip the rear spring pads an on the 8.8 form an x.
Trans will all fit and are interchangeable. But will take drive shaft modifications.
For a little more power with less hassle then a V-8 you can drop a 4.0 in real easy with no major modifications.
#6
#7
86 will have the larger throttle body for a small performance upgrade.
I would grab all the sensors (IAC etc.) and TFI off the BII engine (I would take the dist. too) and the RABS module behind the driver's seat.
On E-Bay, the little horses on the fenders go for some change.
Get the front axle shafts, spindles/hubs! Last time I checked a few years ago, the right outer axle was $160 from the dealer!
Get the cat. converter, worth about $15 used as scrap.
Get the CPU and brake int. switch.
Get the high pressure fuel pump as a spare.
Grab all the relays next to the MAP sensor you grabbed.
Starter sol. for a spare.
Coil AND connector.
Power window motors!
If you have a rear spare tire carrier you use, get the latch and handle assembly because it is aluminum and hard to weld to fix if your's breaks. Been there, done that. The repair never holds.
If you have the room, take the big rear qtr glass and store it or sell it. Noone wil argue with $25 each.
Rear hatch pistons. One of those things you hate to buy new.
if you have electric windows and locks, grab the switches and a generous amount of the wire after the connector.
I would grab all the sensors (IAC etc.) and TFI off the BII engine (I would take the dist. too) and the RABS module behind the driver's seat.
On E-Bay, the little horses on the fenders go for some change.
Get the front axle shafts, spindles/hubs! Last time I checked a few years ago, the right outer axle was $160 from the dealer!
Get the cat. converter, worth about $15 used as scrap.
Get the CPU and brake int. switch.
Get the high pressure fuel pump as a spare.
Grab all the relays next to the MAP sensor you grabbed.
Starter sol. for a spare.
Coil AND connector.
Power window motors!
If you have a rear spare tire carrier you use, get the latch and handle assembly because it is aluminum and hard to weld to fix if your's breaks. Been there, done that. The repair never holds.
If you have the room, take the big rear qtr glass and store it or sell it. Noone wil argue with $25 each.
Rear hatch pistons. One of those things you hate to buy new.
if you have electric windows and locks, grab the switches and a generous amount of the wire after the connector.
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#8
The electrical wiring going to each of your doors has connectors that are beneath the
circular cutouts behind your headlights. one on each side. the cabling runs into the fenders on each side. You ought to be able to unplug them at the headlight areas,
and draw them back thru the fenders. there are attachments you can see portruding
thru the inner wall that secure the cable in the fenders.
circular cutouts behind your headlights. one on each side. the cabling runs into the fenders on each side. You ought to be able to unplug them at the headlight areas,
and draw them back thru the fenders. there are attachments you can see portruding
thru the inner wall that secure the cable in the fenders.
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