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i just got an 84 bronco II but the transmission cooler line on the radiator is shot on it...where can i get a new one and how much can i expect to pay? thank for your help
The actual hard line going from the radiator to the transmission or the connectors that connect the hard lines to the radiator? If the connectors are leaking, may also need the cooler re-brazed into the radiator... had a similar issue on my '73 F-100. Anyhow, the connectors are $3-5 a piece at Checker / Shuck's / Kragen / Advance. The hard lines, however, you'll have to figure out the fitting sizes and buy ones that are long enough and then bend / form them to fit. Not sure how much those will cost. If it has flexible rubber hose anywhere in there, you'll have to ask at the parts counter for the right size and type of hose and replace that, and not sure on cost on that, either. Hope this helps.
plastic radiator unless it has a brass replacment unit.
the lines are a dealer part,but on a 22year year old truck maybe hard to find.
look for this sites sponser list and log into y2kford parts and ask ed. for the help you need. make sure you tell him your from fte as he gives us a break that even i can't get locally.
try napa,they sell straight tubing for brakes,i had to replace all the lines in my 72 f-100,i used and old alternator pulley to make my bends,and used a falring tool to flare the ends,worked great,that was back in 2004,have had no problems
plastic radiator unless it has a brass replacment unit.
Originally Posted by 88MerkurXR4Ti
i just got an 84 bronco II but the transmission cooler line on the radiator is shot on it...
'83-'85 Rangers and '84-'85 BIIs had brass / copper radiators, if memory serves me correctly. It wasn't until '85 or '86 that they switched to the cheap cheesy plastic / aluminum junk.
not a problem, we try, or at least I try to help as quickly as I can! I'm probably too active on here and on here way much more than my wife likes... d'OH!
You can buy a cheap flaring tool and make your own lines, since it is not under high pressure the seal of the flare is not critical like it would be on a brake line. When I have to use rubber hose (tranny line costs $3 a foot!) I double flare the line anyway so it does not leak.
Make sure you replicate the factory line with the bends and downward shallow U so it clears the hoses and fan belt. Plus, it is a stress relief.
Get 5/16 steel brake line.
I use the kind with the steel coil on the outside.
It can be bent very sharply and not kink.
2 - 5 foot sections usually do for both lines.
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