6.9 Shortblock
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6.9 Shortblock
I have inherited an 89 f250 with a leak in the block, oil is traveling into the coolant. I want to get a shortblock for it since everything else functions fine. Who is a good company to get one from? I tried contacting dieselautoservices.com, but he told me I should buy from somebody in the states, as the US dollar has lost so much value to the canadian. I've found some other companies... Jasper(I get mixed reviews mostly bad), Motorcraft(rhino engines?), Thunderbolt(Tbolt.net?), Roadmaster Ford Engines?, Diesel engines USA?...
Any others that might be better?
Also I noticed 6.9's only go up to 1987, how could it be I have one in an '89 when I'm pretty sure its the original engine?
Chanks-jp
Any others that might be better?
Also I noticed 6.9's only go up to 1987, how could it be I have one in an '89 when I'm pretty sure its the original engine?
Chanks-jp
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Byron New York
If it is an 89 it used to be a 7.3L probably got switched to a 6.9L sometime during it's life. With water in the oil is there any oil in the radiator? How long has this been happening? If it is an 85-87 vintage 6.9L you have a real good engine block to rebuild or have rebuilt.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Byron New York
I am sure Mr. Sponaugle can recommend one company not to use with his luck on previous 7.3L's. I have read good and bad about peoples luck with remans from drop ins to long and short blocks. It is anyones guess as long as they stand by their work and offer a warranty. So maybe trying a reputable local diesel shop to see where they get parts and remans might be a good start. Those people really only want to install the engine once and make their money. I am leaning towards rebuilding my own 87 6.9L take my time and do it right. So, with all my rambling I have really said nothing? With a short block your still talking 2800-3300 bucks. For that money you can freshen up your engine and know what is in it.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Delta B.C.
why only a short block?
I have always been a firm believer that a fresh bottom end should have a frest top end, and a fresh top end should have a fresh bottom end.... I will not put re-built heads on a bottom end with higher miles, or the other way around ... its asking for trouble...
1986 was a good year for 6.9Ls... do you have any mechanical abilities??
where abouts are you located?? I am in BC canada and looking into a fresh engine currently....
I have always been a firm believer that a fresh bottom end should have a frest top end, and a fresh top end should have a fresh bottom end.... I will not put re-built heads on a bottom end with higher miles, or the other way around ... its asking for trouble...
1986 was a good year for 6.9Ls... do you have any mechanical abilities??
where abouts are you located?? I am in BC canada and looking into a fresh engine currently....
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Heads were just recently redone, oil cooler checked. A mechanic that checked out the truck said that he felt it was the block because oil was going into the coolant not the other way round(pressure?). I'm located in Oakland, CA, I have a diesel mechanic that lives acrossed the way from me, he's going to help. He suggested getting a Jasper, but from what I have read on this forum, they are not very good. I have Rebuilt tranny and I have a banks turbo to put on if I want.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Newberg Oregon
Call motorworks in spokane washington. Best remans I have ever used. I do almost all of my own machine work and I had them do my diesel block because I didnt get the answers I wanted from the local shop.
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
My money is on the O rings in the oil cooler being the problem.
Possibly it could also be the gaskets between the oil cooler and block also.
Oil and water are very close to each other in both locations, and the oil usually goes to the water first because the oil is under greater pressure.
A crack in the block would let water into the oil after you shut down a hot engine.
Possibly it could also be the gaskets between the oil cooler and block also.
Oil and water are very close to each other in both locations, and the oil usually goes to the water first because the oil is under greater pressure.
A crack in the block would let water into the oil after you shut down a hot engine.
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Oil cooler was checked. New gaskets were placed on cooler. And Now I find out water was going into the oil as well. After I read your message I was hoping you were right, looks like a reman is in order though.
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