ignition switch gone haywire?
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ignition switch gone haywire?
ok guys, I have a buddy of mine that has an '83 250 with the 6.9. He just replaced the starter as it was completely fried and he just called me to tell me that it will start right up and then as soon as the key goes to the run position it dies. I told him that the ignition switch (the one further down the steering column) was most likely the culprit. Does that sound reasonable? I have never seen one go bad, although I have not had that much experience with these things although I have replaced one. lol
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Byron New York
I agree with the run only fuse or fuse link. Better off getting a diagram and tracing the wires. The Haynes book does OK with this. The diagrams are a little confusing but get the point across.
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
i had that same problem on my 85, except it would stay on in the "run" position, and as soon as you touched the shift lever, and i mean drop a feather on the shifter, it would shut off, i dropped the column, and found that my ignition swith, the one your talking about had spit at it joint(they press the plastic piece together with the metal part, and clips hold it together) i put a new switch in, and off she went......personaly, i would try the fuses like matts156 said, and if that doesnt fix anything, drop the column and check out the ignition switch, and if you do that, and its an auto tranny, make very sure you do not break the little plastic line for the shifter position thingy(thing that shows what gear your in).....
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ok, talked to my buddy again today. He told me that another friend of his told him to look for a round piece behind the head. He said that it controls a plunger on the IP and if it is bad, it won't allow any fuel to get to the IP. Does anyone know what this thing is called? I thought the GP controller would do that? He says they are like $100 a piece and his buddy told him his went out every six months until he covered it with insulation. Not sure what this is and if someone might have a better supplier.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Switch or wiring problem.
My first guess is switch problem.
The glow plug controller has nothing to do with the IP fuel shut off solenoid.
My first guess is switch problem.
The glow plug controller has nothing to do with the IP fuel shut off solenoid.
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so where can one find that switch? is that the round thing that is behind the drivers side head on an 83 6.9? the wires run to the IP and to the gp relay on the fender I believe
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Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The round thing with wires is the glow plug controller.
The ignition switch is located on the top of the steering column under the dash.
Jumper a wire from the positive battery terminal to the front connector on the IP, drivers side.
That is the fuel shut off solenoid terminal.
If the engine does not shut off with the jumper wire on the IP, and it does shut off with the stock connector on it, you will have to trace the wire back to the ignition switch. Green with red stripe wire.
But I bet this is an ignition switch problem.
The ignition switch is located on the top of the steering column under the dash.
Jumper a wire from the positive battery terminal to the front connector on the IP, drivers side.
That is the fuel shut off solenoid terminal.
If the engine does not shut off with the jumper wire on the IP, and it does shut off with the stock connector on it, you will have to trace the wire back to the ignition switch. Green with red stripe wire.
But I bet this is an ignition switch problem.
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buddy tried to jumper the front one (fuel cutoff solenoid?) and it didn't make a bit of difference either way. He told me today he took a plate? off of the top of the IP because he could hear something rattling around when he took it off and it appeared to be the solenoid? on the rear of the two connections. What is this connection and what is it's normal operating position? closed when ignition is in run? open?
he said when he took that plate off he looked down in it and it looked like that back solenoid was rattling around. that doesn't sound normal. lol. We are trying to figure out if maybe this thing just needs a new IP or not. It doesn't have any seepage or leakage around it, it just won't start. It will turn over but it would start before but shut immediately back down until he took the IP off. Now it will only turn over and won't even start when towed. He says he isn't getting any fuel out of the IP much less at the injectors. Lots of pressure at the filter and the inlet to the IP.
he said when he took that plate off he looked down in it and it looked like that back solenoid was rattling around. that doesn't sound normal. lol. We are trying to figure out if maybe this thing just needs a new IP or not. It doesn't have any seepage or leakage around it, it just won't start. It will turn over but it would start before but shut immediately back down until he took the IP off. Now it will only turn over and won't even start when towed. He says he isn't getting any fuel out of the IP much less at the injectors. Lots of pressure at the filter and the inlet to the IP.
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Everything seems to be put back together correctly other than that rear solenoid. What exactly do you mean? What does that rear one do? It just seems to click back and forth if you pick up the plate and move it back and forth.