I have my 87 (460) Motor home engine tore down because of a bad valve. The engine was apparently worked on before because the heads had different #s (as well as different colors) The head that matches my gray block color checked out OK it has # E8TE-DA, the other head that turned out to be junk had a different numer, even stamped in a different location, but I don't recall what the # was.

I've seen the head # D0VE used a lot (that was NOT the junk head #) The machine shop located another E8TE-DA head and reworked it. My question, is the E8TE-DA head any good? (not that it matters now)?

BTW, I pulled one of the lifters out to check for wear and it was just slightly pitted....Flat but slightly pitted. Is that cause for concern?

 

If your running a carb then swapping to the older heads is possible. However, the chambers on the D0VE are smaller and will increase the compression ratio. Not to mention you wouldn't be able to install the emission gear. Having a matched set of heads is more important then anything though. Slight pits can be expected on a used engine. What you don't want to have is a cupped or wiped lifter base. So I would leave it alone if it were me.

 

Thanks, the only other thing I'll do before reassembly is use a dial indicator to check for flat cam lobes. Before the backfire was real bad (intake valve seat shot in #7) it would backfire (pop) occasionally, every 50 miles or so on the freeway.

 

Yes it is a good head. I had the same heads on my 1987. I replaced with D3VE heads, same basic head. I would do some work on the exhaust side to improve flow as long as I had them off.

Did they install new exhaust seats in your heads? The factory seats are induction hardened and not very thick. You can cut right through the hardened part when re doing the seats. I am building the same type of motor but going a little further. I would change the timing set. This will give you more power/better mileage. Be sure to use a after market double roller set with 3 key ways and set it up on –0-.

Good luck and feel free to ask me questions if you have any

Bill

 

Here's my dilemma. The motor is in a class a motor home, I fear if I tamper with the timing cover and I have an oil leak it would be a major project just to fix the leak because of everything I have to go through just to get to the cover again....I am tempted to do it but I don't have confidence in gaskets and sealers...especially silicone....Any pointers on leak proof reassembly?

Do I cut the pan gasket at the block/cover connection and do a half-assed patch?...Do I remove the pan completely (not an easy task either on this vehicle)?

 

I haven't had may problems from doing the patch that comes timing cover kit. The oil leaks more then not is the balancer seal. The balancer sleeve/hatchet spins in one spot on the seal which causes it to wear a light grove. If you use the sleeve repair kit that comes with the fel-pro timig cover gasket set it wont leak. As for the type of RTV, black or blue on the oil pan gaskets. This will keep it from leaking as long as you remove all the old gasket materials off of the block. I also seal the timing cover bolt threads with aviation gasket sealer. It's sold by perm-a-tex in a white bottle. It never dries out but it is thick to help eliminate coolant leaks through the bolt threads.

 

I think you can get a good leak free instillation just be sure to prep your surface and be sure they are clean. I would do a final cleaning with acetone to be sure it is clean. When it is done right it isn’t half-assed.
While you are that far into it why not change the cam for something that gives you some more torque? This would fix your lifter problem.
Bill

 

I talked to the guys at the head shop about my pitted lifters, he said I should replace the cam and lifters, no doubt. So I ordered a new (RV) cam, lifters and straight up timing set up.
As it turns out, BOY am I glad I did. When I pulled the timing cover off I couldn't believe how sloppy the chain was. I'm not sure how much slack is allowable but I'm pretty sure it's not as much as I had.

 

The next big upgrade would be to add a set of headers. There are two kinds of 460 motors in rvs those who have cracked exaust manafolds and broken bolts (mainley on the right rear) or those who will. You can do a serch on places like http://www.rv.net/forum/ and see.
I would look into this while you have the motor down it would be a good time to do it. This would give you, with a little work on the fresh air intake, the same basik upgrade as a Banks for less money.
http://store.bankspower.com/Categori...0-030927fe2407

Tell me about your class A.
Bill

 

Actually the old dog is just a beater but I'm pretty much married to it now. We want a motor home for occasional trips. There was no way I could sell it the way it was and I didn't want to scrap it only to put out more money for) another used one then go throught the same thing again, so I'll fix this one up with some new carpet etc..

I'll consider the headers after I get it running again. The exhaust manifolds have already had their bolt holes elongated. The head that had the bad valve also was cracked through the exhaust manifold thread boss.