I got one of the pictures of the intake in my gallery finally , I know the picture is not the best but I took it in the dark with my phone, the picture was taken on the left side of the engine the two bolts are the two bolts that are to the left of the carburetor and in the middle of the intake, see what yall think, I have a few more pictures but i am on dial up and my computer is old so it takes me a while to post them, as of today I began removing the valve covers and the rockers that I must remove to re-torque the head to 100, I was wondering what technique do yall use to torque the rocker arms I used the chiltons manual the first time but just wondering if experience has taught yall a new technique that may be simpler, I did run the engine and got it warm just to see how it was today and the steam did not seem as bad today as yesterday but still noticable, the miss did not seem as noticeable either but I am sure that if I have a leak it will be back, please check out the picture and see what I have
thanks

 

that's the exhaust crossover cooling hole. everybody's got one. on each head.

what did you torque the heads to originally?

what kind of a pattern did you use?

 

today I removed all my rockers on the left side and retorqued my head bolts, one of the head bolts around a few of the bolts did move just a little even at the final torque that I had torqued them to the other day, so I left the torque at the final setting of 105 ft lbs per the chiltons manual and I used the same torque sequence I used the other day as the chiltons said for the 351m, I reinstalled my rocker arms and fired it up and let it warm up and I did not see any sign of smoke or steam, I didn't even hear the miss that I had thought I heard yesterday, I took it for a spin around the block all was well but when I got into it a little bit it kind of spit back just a little so I brought it home and adjusted the timing just a tad and went out and tried it again the motor did very well, I let it idle for a good ten minutes and there was no sign of smoke, I plan on tinkering a little more this weekend and I will post if I find anything else, a friend came over later and kind of raised a few questions about my intake he also wanted to know why I had an empty hole at the front of the intake so the holes are still a question to me,I don't think that they could have swapped intakes but will any other intake work on the 351c, the intake does have a casting no. at the back and I could post it if it might help, thanks again for all the tips yall have saved me a lot of extra work and headache I will run the motor some more this weekend and see what happens
thanks

 

The hole in the front of the head are for a water crossover. That feature doesn't exist on the 351C or any 335 series motor.

Moreover, these holes are usually plugged and covered by the intake manifold.

When they put 351C heads on a Windsor motor( a Clevor), they open these holes because the Windsor motor needs the water crossover.

If you can give the make and model No of the intake manifold, maybe someone can figure out why the holes are not covered.

 

well I found a use for one of the holes in the intake, it was for mounting the coil in the original position, I had to take back my new edelbrock carb because it started leaking around the throttle arm, so i installed a new edelbrock carb and all is well, I think for now, I have kind of taken a liking to the cleveland and am leaning toward using the engine in my project, I just wish i had checked the bore of the cylinders before I put the heads on to see what the engine was bored to and see if they bored it to the limits of the block so I could know if I might be able to get another rebuild out of the engine. i plan on checking the compression of the motor to see what it is, it does seem pretty tight, I went to an engine machine shop yesterday and the guy told me that being the guy rubbed a lobe on the came that it may not last to long if he ran it very long with the metal flowing through the oil, but if I decide to use the motor I will have to go through the engine again to make sure everything is well, thanks for all the help guys

 

I strongly suggest changing that Oil and Filter right now. This will reduce your chances of internal damage considering the motors previous history of cam lobe wear.

It's always good practice to change the initial start up oil after about 30 minutes of running then again after about 2 hrs or roughly 100 miles. Then you can use factory service procedures.

Take care of that 4V.

Cheers..........Barry.

 

I changed the oil last weekend, I probably went an hour or two on the oil, but maybe no harm was done, I initially did not plan on using the cleveland but everyone has talked me into using it for my project truck, I doubt it will see very much use until I am done with my project because the steering is terrible on the truck, I plan on sending it to the machine shop when I get ready to use it and let them look everything over really well, I just hope there is still something there to work with and they didn't bore the cylinders out to there limits although it seems to have good compression I have yet to put a tester on it, the real concern with me is the heads because the valves seemed to sit kind of deep in the head and plus I had the little water leak on the no. 5 cylinder that the five extra lbs of torque seemed to cure, is the blocks the same for a 2 barrel and a 4 barrell.

thanks

 

Yes, the blocks are the same for a 2V and a 4V. There are some 4V blocks with 4 bolt mains, but all blocks can have 4 bolt mains with some machine work.

 

right...but you do not want to machine the caps- drill the block and buy 4 bolt main caps...they are said to weaken if you drill the stock ones. Then theres the splay vs the straight-in bolt patterns. they say splayed is more secure...By looking at the way the block is drilled for splay i have chosen to go straight in. but???

 

Tim Meyer drilled my 434 for straight in studs.

 

thats cause he's the man

 

are the bellhousing attachment the same as a modified, in other words if I was to use the cleveland would it bolt to my 400 bellhousing on my np435transmission if not what bell housing do I need for my 435

 

The Cleveland uses a small block bell housing. That is the same as a 302, or 300 I6. The 351M/400 motors use the big block bell housing, the same as a 460.