You have a 351C-4V motor. Ask for parts for a '71 Mustang with a 4 barrel carb.

With a factory intake, you should use the metal valley pan, not the fiber gaskets. The valley pan prevents oil from splashing onto the underside of the manifold and coking there on the hot exhaust crossover.

 

I got the motor put back together and am currently trying to get her to crank, I have set the timing several times by putting no.1 at 8degrees BTDC and lining up the pickup, when I turn it over the motor will fire and run for just a second or two then it will spit back through the carb, I removed the holley 4779 ( I think that is the model) and installed another carb but the same model the new carb has also been sitting up for a little while but it has been in a tool box drawer with all the holes plugged, the motor acts the same with either carb installed, run for a few seconds then quit, I am beginning to wonder now if I may have a leak in my intake but I am hesitant to remove the intake until I am sure because of the expensive valley pan gasket, I have swung the distributor both ways to see if that would help but it seems that the ignition timing is not the problem, again I am not asking this motor for a whole lot I just want it to run for me to be able to move it around while I do the body work and chassis work on my 4x4 thanks for any help

 

Look at the plugs. Black and wet is fouled, too rich. Clean the plugs and set the idle mixture screws and try again.

 

well I finally got her to fire up and run yesterday, I gave up on the holleys and went with an edelbrock 600, now the motor will fire and run but the problem I have now is that I cannot get my timing set at 8 to ten degrees, when I try to move the timing it will rev up and begin to smooth out but, I have my idle screw backed out so far that the engine will no longer idle down and it will stay at this idle speed until I advance the distributor ( counterclockwise). when I have the timing advanced the engine will idle but it sounds like it is lugging down and my timing mark is about 3/4 inch above the timing pointer, I beleive I have plugged all my vacuum ports, I am also running on the warm side about 205-210, I put 195 t-stat in but I would like to go cooler if possible but the only t-stats the parts store offers are 185-195 which 10 degrees is not a lot of difference what t-stat do yall run, I do not have a shroud or fan clutch installed , hopefully I gave enough information so someone can come up with some ideas as to what might be going on with my motor thanks again

 

Get a robertshaw 333-180 tstat.

http://www.flowkooler.com/thermos.ph...33&pid0=WP1648

You really need the shroud, put it in ASAP.

It sounds like a vacuum leak.
Spray the intake and carb area with carb cleaner, if the RPMs increase, then there is air being drawn in through the leak.
When you back out the idle screw, does the throttle close completely?
Look for fuel drops in the throat of the carb when idling, if you see any your floats are too high.

 

also the dist turns counter so when you move it that way you are retarding thus the lugging etc.

Do you realize what you have for an engine? 351 4v is the chit imo. You could eventually build that into one major piece of muscle some day- the best stock power-maker in fords history.

What did the combustion chamber look like on the heads- round or half circle? Must be open chamber if it's running with a stock cam.

m's have the big block bell housing and 12 ton 2wd trucks have the small block bellhousing. Sounds like a lot of fun. I'm enjoying the info from danlee as usual.

 

sorry danzee I kind of reposted up above because my email did not show any replies, I cranked it up again today just to hear it run for a little while, I did not do very much troubleshooting, I will check the throttle plate and make sure it is closing all the way, I will also try the carb cleaner, I may have created the problem myself by using both gaskets, I put the fiber gaskets on first then i installed the rubber end seals and then I installed the valley pan, I noticed today that I had a small puddle of coolant around the distributor, so I have just about talked myself into removing the intake and replacing the gaskets but I want to make sure I do it the right way, maybe I misunderstood the previous post about installing only the metal pan and throwing the fiber gaskets away, I am also leaning toward not using the end seals but I would like to know if rtv at both ends is absolutely the way to go so that I can be sure that the problem is solved, as for the engine everyone says that I have got one of the better powerplants that ford made, but I am not going to use it for my current project just because I want the numbers to match, I really dont have any plans for it I am going to use the tired 400 that is in the other truck for this project, as for the cleveland the intake looks kind of funny to me is the exhaust crossovers supposed to be seen with the intake installed because as it sits right now about half of the crossovers are exposed and there is two empty holes at the front of the intake one on either side but there is no holes in the block will any other intake work off of any other engine if my connection was any good I would post some pictures of what I have, this supposed to be simple project of getting this motor has been a very humbling experience for me but i guess i kind of asked for it, that is what happens when you go out and by a truck body and the engine parts are piled in a bucket and the seller says all it needs is to be put back together

 

You should not use the fiber gaskets and the valley pan together. One or the other.

Use silicone to seal the ends of the manifold, throw the rubber seals away.

 

danlee you are not going to send me a bill for all this are you, I went out and took some pictures of the intake I am going to try and post them

 

what about the crossover holes being visible is that a problem or is that normal

 

"had a small puddle of coolant around the distributor"

there's no coolant in the intake manifold, it ain't comin from there! most likely it's coming from the Tstat housing.

 

Let's see the pictures, maybe someone can determine what is right and what is wrong.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Sorry for not posting the pictures but i had some issues with downloading them to my computer, I got the coolant leak resolved by putting a cooler tstat and replacing the old radiator hose thanks to grclark, I have resolved some other issues but I think I have taken on a bigger issue with this motor, first the good news I found some vacuum problems one being the modulator hose being disconnected from the tmission possibly causing my rough idle issues and other tuning issues, a friend came over and talked me into taking it down the road boy was I excited, I was very impressed with the get up and go of this motor, and I am not sure what gear ratio is in the rear end but I have to believe that it is not a stock set up because it is very quick from a dead stop, the tranny even shifted very well, I was very happy with all the results so far and very impressed being I didn't put much confidence in the motor, all was well until I began to see small amount of smoke coming from the left tail pipe it looked a lot the steam that comes from a tail pipe early in the morning, so I began to do some investigating and found no. 5 plug to be a chalky color and I pulled it while it was still hot and when I got it out the plug was steaming, so I pulled no. 6 and no. 7 plugs and both had a very different color maybe a color of a slight rich condition, the smoke is only out of the left tailpipe and not the right, so I am wondering if the engine had more problems than just the cam lobe being rubbed severely, I am begining to think that I may have a very small crack in the head or the block, I took the radiator cap off and ran the engine and it seemed to smoke some less, I am wodering would the engine even run with a very small crack in the head, the top of the piston looks very clean when I look through the plug hole. The problem does not start until the engine is up to operating temp and once the smoke starts the idle has a very slight miss to it and it is not very noticable but now that I have spent a fair amount of time adjusting and tickering with this motor I can tell the difference in the idle, I just discovered this yesterday so I have not had much time to look into it but if anyone has any ideas I am ready for them, boy this project has been a very humbling but also a very educational experience thanks for all the help

 

It certainly could be a small head gasket leak, or crack in the head. It will run good with a small water leak into one cylinder, but it will miss.

Take a compression test with the radiator cap OFF. Compare cylinder #5 to the others.

You could try to retorque the head. If it is a head gasket leaking, it could improve with a retorque.

 

a picture of the intake holes you mention would really help out, i can't figure out what you mean by the holes?

if there is coolant getting into a cylinder the first thing to look for is that the plug and everything else in that cylinder are spotless from being steam cleaned. it does sound like you have a head gasket or other similar issue going on there. you might need to pull that head back off and get it checked for warpage, but i'd try to retorque it to 100 ft lbs first.