Replacing gas gauge sending unit!
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Replacing gas gauge sending unit!
Hey, guys this weekend I'm goiing to try and tackle my gas gauge problem. I know I need a new sending unit. I'm going to get one from a local junkyard. the sending unit is located in the gas tank right? Do you guys know of a web site that shows step by step on how to change this, that would be a great help. Thanks a bunch for all your help!!:-X12
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From: Western Colorado USA
Replacing gas gauge sending unit!
I've never been into the tank on a Bronco but I've learned from other tanks to squirt the mounting bolts with penetrating oil and let soak for as long a possible. The holding straps can break if you put too much torque against them while fighting a siezed nut.
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From: Memphis, TN
Replacing gas gauge sending unit!
Bronco tanks aren't held up by straps - they sit on their skidplate, which has plain bolts & crimped nuts holding it to the frame. The straps are on top.
You'll need 13mm & 15mm wrenches to pull the skidplat, but if your tank is more than 1/4 full, you should also use a floor jack. You'll also need a set of garter spring tools ($10/set for the plastic ones) and a NEW O-RING for the sending unit plate. (No, you can't reuse the old one no matter how careful you are, and it's cheap anyway.)
Drain the pressure by tripping the inertia switch (either behind the brake pedal on the firewall, or behind the R kick panel under the dash) with the engine running. After it dies, try to start it a couple of times. If you have a body lift, you can disconnect the hoses first; otherwise, just make sure all the slack in them is available to feed over the crossmember when the tank comes down. Drop the tank and disconnect the hoses & the connector. To use the garter spring tools, push the hose FULLY into the fitting, then the tool, then pull both out. Now's the time to put vacuum caps on the fittings & hose ALL the dirt off the top of the tank so it doesn't go inside. Use a ShopVac or air hose to dry it. Use a LARGE flathead screwdriver to turn the lock ring & release the sending unit. The pump barely fits thru the hole, so go slowly. There are some pics here that will help: #43, 44, 45, 46 -
http://www.webphotos.com/list_photos.asp?mi=3&smi=2&a=66912
You'll need 13mm & 15mm wrenches to pull the skidplat, but if your tank is more than 1/4 full, you should also use a floor jack. You'll also need a set of garter spring tools ($10/set for the plastic ones) and a NEW O-RING for the sending unit plate. (No, you can't reuse the old one no matter how careful you are, and it's cheap anyway.)
Drain the pressure by tripping the inertia switch (either behind the brake pedal on the firewall, or behind the R kick panel under the dash) with the engine running. After it dies, try to start it a couple of times. If you have a body lift, you can disconnect the hoses first; otherwise, just make sure all the slack in them is available to feed over the crossmember when the tank comes down. Drop the tank and disconnect the hoses & the connector. To use the garter spring tools, push the hose FULLY into the fitting, then the tool, then pull both out. Now's the time to put vacuum caps on the fittings & hose ALL the dirt off the top of the tank so it doesn't go inside. Use a ShopVac or air hose to dry it. Use a LARGE flathead screwdriver to turn the lock ring & release the sending unit. The pump barely fits thru the hole, so go slowly. There are some pics here that will help: #43, 44, 45, 46 -
http://www.webphotos.com/list_photos.asp?mi=3&smi=2&a=66912
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