I installed my rollers on my truck the way crane says in there instructions. I put each cylinder at top dead center and took the lash out then turned 1/2 turn. My problem is they are still ticking. I noticed in my Ford book it said to turn 3/4 of a turn if it has adjustable valvetrain. Can I just turn them 1/4 more or do I have to go thru the whole process again? Any help would be appreciated. THANKS.

 

you are using hydraulic lifter i assume...so



1/2-3/4-1 turn yada yada... The goal is for the lifter to be about half way depressed with the valve fully closed- so tdc is one way to insure they are closed when adjusting but the goal is that the lifter, push rod and arm have no slack and a bit of preload so to speak.

Now you do realize that roller lifters do make some lifter noise just because they are roller lifters. I had some cheaper proform rollers that have a bit more slack within the rocker itself than my scorpions and they make more noise than i expected and I was taken aback and readjusting and wasting time. It can be difficult to know the precise point when all of the slack is removed so I also check how far the hydraulic lifter is depressed...

someone help us if i'm wrong

 

Thank you very much. I think the guy who helped me last time did them while it was running but it was throwing oil every where. I know you will hear them. My corvette has them and you can here them but this is alittle to much. Thanks

 

you're sure have heads that are machined for screw in studs?

 

I bought the crane convertion kit

 

You must have the valve closed and the cam on it's base circle when you adjust the valves. This can be accomplished by one of two methods. The first is the one that you used. The better way is as follows:

Set #1 to TDC. Set #1 Intake and Exhaust valve, then set #4 Intake, #3 Exhaust, #8 Intake, and #7 Exhaust.

Rotate the crank to 180 degrees (1/2 turn). Set #3 Intake, #2 Exhaust, #7 Intake, #6 Exhaust.

Rotate the crank to 270 degrees (3/4 turn). Set #2 Intake, #4 Exhaust valve, #5 Intake, #5 Exhaust, #6 Intake, and #8 Exhaust.

 

is that the kit that has the 5/16 studs and guides? If so wondering how it works out in the short and medium term.

 

PHetrick, how did you make sure that you were at TDC on all the cylinders? I've tried the method Danlee is offering but it didn't work well for me. what i do is mark the balancer at 90 degree intervals(straight across opposite of the TDC mark and then split the two sides even). start at #1 TDC and do both rockers for #1 cylinder. turn the crank 90* and do the next cylinder in the firing order. turn 90*, next cyl in firing order until you've done all 8. maybe i just can't keep track of where i'm at with that other method, or different cam timing makes it not quite right i don't know but it just didn't work out for me anyway.

i have found that at 1/4 turn of preload the engine runs and revs happier but may tick a little. the more preload you crank in the less the engine wants to rev, just my finding. about 1/3 of a turn is perfect IMO.

what method are you using to find zero lash? i rotate the pushrod back and forth between my fingers as i very slowly tighten the rocker adjustment. you can feel when the pushrod stiffens up in the rocker. takes a time or 2 to get the feel but it's easy.

 

Sorry computer went down after I was posting. Any how I had all the spark plugs out then rotated each piston to the top and then I adjusted them. It my not be right but it seemed to work. I have my a full one turn down now because at 1/2 turn they where clacking very bad. I think i still have one or two still a little loose. How are you able to run them at only a 1/4. I have the edelbrock cam and lifter kit, Crane roller rockers and conversion kit, and edelbrock valve springs. If I go any lighter they rattle real bad. Am I doing something wrong.

 

by the way Ive had the cam, lifters,and roller rockers in my truck for about 3 years. I just recently put the valve springs in.

 

I know that I did it on my Olds but the process is the sme. A friend of mine showed the best way to do this.

(With your valve covers off of course. Best to have a friend help you.) First rotate your crank and watch your #1 cylinder. Watch your exhaust valve once it opens keep rotating it till it is just closed all the way. You are now sure that your intake is on the base circle. Tighten the nut while rotating your push rod. Once you have taken all the slack out of the push rod and your can not turn it with little effort, tighten you nut 1/2 turn more. Do the same with the exhaust. While rotating your crank watch your itake valve and once it is completely closed tighten your exhaust rocker in the same process.

It does take a little time to go through all your valves, but you will make sure that you adjust the valves when your cam is at base circle. I did this to my Olds (which from the factory does not have an adjustible valve train) but I installed roller tip rockers on my motor.

Hope this helps out, STephan

 

Your problem is due to the fact that the piston comes to TDC twice. One time the valves can be open in overlap, the next time they will be closed and the cam will be on the base circle. It is when the piston is on it's compression stroke.

 

how do you know when your on the right stroke and should I readjuust them. Bye the way what is overlap. Thanks

 

Watch the intake valve and turn the motor- the intake valve will open o the down stroke prior to the compression stroke and end during the beginning of the compression stroke. Thats how you know for certain. When the valve fully closes watch the timing marks and your there.

Once you adjust the valve check to see how far the pushrod is depressing the spring in the lifter- you can use a dial indicator set up if you want. You can also play and see how many turns it takes to seat the lifter completely- be careful not to over-tighten if you do this. On the wheezer i just built it was more difficult as the rockers were lower quality and had play in the tolerance. But the lifters all fully seated at 1 1/2 turns thus 3/4 of a turn was half...1/2 turn was a bit less which is probably the goal.

If in doubt and if you are fretting over it measure each one while at tdc and find the half way mark and go a bit less- I got to where i could tell by pushing in the pushrod to see where it was at just to check.

I'm still screwing with a challenging pedestal set up where i have to shim the heck out of the rockers and measure the pushrod to get the exact length to make sure the same thing happened as it isn't adjustable. It gets easier as you struggle with it but the amount of turn isn't whats crucial it's the distance your depressing the lifter.

overlap:
the exhaust stroke ends and the intake begins...so the exhaust valve closes while the intake opens- overlap is the time when both are open together....

grclark referred to keeping them loose to rev better...hydraulic lifters pump up which changes their function at higher rpm- the further they are seated into the lifter the more pump up will be an issue...so a little lifter noise may be acceptable if your using higher rpm. I think to aim just below half is best regardless what that means in 1/2, 2/3, 3/4 turn etc.